The choke is correct in needing the throttle to release it. That is why you need to step on the gas at least once in a carbureted vehicle, that "sets the choke" by releasing it so it can close on a cold start. Then once it warms up the electric, manifold or exhaust heated pull off system holds it open. Some carburetors also have a vacuum choke pull off that will modulate the choke using vacuum passing through a temperature valve on the thermostat housing. You also will adjust that once you have it installed. The linkage bar can be bent to close it tighter but it shouldn't be needed, you don't really want the choke to seal the inlet off because it does need some air to go past it to atomize the fuel and in the event the choke were to stick you could still move the car around. Once you get it installed you will adjust the cover to keep the choke on for the correct amount of time based on the way the engine warms up and the climate you have. Colder area likes the choke to stay on longer as a general rule.
The gasket depends on what it had originally. Some used a gasket for the metering block and bowl as one piece, some used a similar gasket with the metering plate, Others used two gaskets for the plate, one for the plate and another for the bowl, as long as the holes all line up and it seals either one should work.
The broken part sounds like the choke cap retainer, looks like the picture? If yes you can get them as replacement parts. They simply push the cover in solid to keep crud out of the housing.
Video was a good idea.
Image (Click to make bigger)
Saturday, May 15th, 2021 AT 9:54 AM