Intermittent carburetor backfiring on both sides

Tiny
STEVE W.
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Yeah, I run into that a lot. Take some of the super techs out there and toss them a car from the 60's and their eyes gloss over and they start shaking. I know some that I would trust with vintage iron, but very few work at dealer shops.
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Monday, September 28th, 2020 AT 4:32 PM
Tiny
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All my text is gone yet again 3 times now. The catb is mostly clean at this point. It appears to be 2 different carbs melded together. The ID tells me that it should have a single bowl fuel connection but it has 2.

The secondary diaphragm needs replaced.

There's damage to the primary and secondary plates I'm guessing need cleaned of rust and repainted?

The 2 holes leading to the front and rear vacuum ports seem to be routed out a bit as do the 2 tiny holes right next to the bigger holes. I don't know what this might cause.

Then in the primary channel there are some strangely shaped metal pieces I suppose are blocking or partially blocking the flow? The one looks like it might have been minimally reduced at least in 1 place.

Take a look and let me know your thoughts.
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Friday, April 23rd, 2021 AT 7:31 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Throttle plates are normally uncoated aluminum or brass. Now and then they are thin steel but not as common as the others. The screws are staked in place so I would simply clean the plates off and leave them. The holes you are talking about look to be the ported vacuum and bowl air feeds. I would put it together, adjust it to the correct specs for that engine size and then see how it acts. Then tune from there. Worst case you could stick a new carb on it. Or one of the Holley injection kits.
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Friday, April 23rd, 2021 AT 8:56 PM
Tiny
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I'd love to get an injecton setup but aftermarkets are crazy expensive. Could I get an top end from an LS or a VI or wouldn't it fit?
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Saturday, April 24th, 2021 AT 12:54 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Not on that block. Lot's of changes between them. Hit a few swap meets, I've seen the Holley units go for 5-600 for complete used ones, but even the new sniper system isn't all that bad at about 1500.00 for a drop on self tuning set up. Or if you are having issues give Holley a call there tech line can be very helpful if you just can't get the carburetor dialed in.
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Saturday, April 24th, 2021 AT 4:22 PM
Tiny
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If people spend that kind of money adding an aftermarket setup why do they take them off? The whole 4bbl carb/injector setup seems odd to me.
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 3:48 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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They pull them for various reasons, updating to different parts, boredom, blew up the engine it was on, didn't like it. I had one of the original pro-jection kits, worked okay but when I went to a 383 stroker kit I couldn't get it to flow enough fuel to feed it.
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 7:18 PM
Tiny
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Okay, a small problem. I started putting the carburetor back together but I don't know where the other side of this spring on the primary goes or if it may have broken off? These parts don't have a name I guess because you can't remove all these levers as they are pressed on. Why? Because they make money replacing or repairing for a cheap spring.
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Sunday, May 2nd, 2021 AT 5:32 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

That is a throttle shaft return spring and it appears to be broken. The straight part simply rested against a stationary position. In the picture, it looks like it may be short. It's hard to tell.

You should be able to get one from a different carb. I attached a pic of yours below and pointed to where I believe it should mount. If you give me a side view of the carburetor, it may help.

To replace that spring, you need to remove the throttle plates and then the throttle shaft.

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, May 2nd, 2021 AT 6:13 PM
Tiny
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That means grinding off the screws that hold the plates. I can't open your picture. The spring looks wrong to me but I don't recall where it was. There's a lever towards what is technically the rear side that has a groove in it but that spring won't reach that far and it seems to simplistic to just rest a spring there. Just seems a an odd location with nothing to ensure the spring would remain there.. I've looked a many carbs online but the spring just seems to disappear in those pictures. Mine has a spring running from the distributor to the throttle which would seem redundant.
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Sunday, May 2nd, 2021 AT 6:58 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I did a little looking around. Check out the two links below that provide information on the spring.

https://line.17qq.com/articles/fddfdpebz.html

https://quadrajetparts.com/used-quadrajet-primary-throttle-shaft-spring-coils-p-2380.html
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Sunday, May 2nd, 2021 AT 9:46 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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This is a Holley carburetor not a QJet in this case. That spring is the secondary shaft return spring. It slips over the orange bushing and should rotate to hit the stop above it where the green spot is next to the notch. Then you hold the plates closed and the hooked piece goes around the opposite side where the curved green is. It is a spring designed to hold the secondary's closed until the linkage opens them.
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Sunday, May 2nd, 2021 AT 11:17 PM
Tiny
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Definitely a Holley. These are vacuum secondary's. Does that make a difference? Which hole are you saying it goes into on that piece that has 8 holes on the side that is pressed in? I've added a side image so you can point or color the hole that spring goes in. I thought that hole was the one it was in. I guess I could pull the end around counterclockwise an entire time so it would be pressing against the trough.
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Monday, May 3rd, 2021 AT 2:07 PM
Tiny
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That's a lot of shafts and springs but since you told me not to grind off the plate screws it's going to be real hard to do much with the spring other than to set it.
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Monday, May 3rd, 2021 AT 2:15 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Setting it is all you need to do with the spring, it looks okay. The hooked end goes into the hole next to the chamfered holes circled in red in the last image. The straight tang just sets in that notch I circled in red. in the first pic, You need to wind it one turn then it snaps in the notch. If you go to the Holley site you should be able to enter the carbs model number and get the adjustment and tuning guide they have. It has the various setting in it and tells you if you need to adjust the spring or change the dashpot depending on what the engine needs.
https://www.holley.com/support/carburetor/
like this tuning guide:
https://documents.holley.com/199r7849-2rev1.pdf
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Monday, May 3rd, 2021 AT 3:18 PM
Tiny
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My favorite instruction to cover a wealth of tiny pieces and parts that a novice isn't going to remember and Holley's advice for rebuilding "Reassemble carburetor in reverse order of disassembly" are you effing kidding? That's the best they can do? Other than the "exploded parts diagram" that's smaller than the carburetor. Assuming you have all the parts and that none have fallen off. Just from looking at their general guide I see 2 missing parts already. My model doesn't have specific instructions.
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Monday, May 3rd, 2021 AT 11:48 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Which model is it?
Most of the Holley carburetors are based on the same parts for each series. The model numbers are more to designate things like throttle linkage and how they are set up from the factory to work on a particular engine size. So say you have a stock 454, you could start with a 650 CFM 4175 which is a spread bore for use on a Qjet manifold, or if you have a square bore intake the 4150. Then you play with the tuning to get it dialed in. Also don't jump to replace "missing" parts, depending on the usage they may not be used.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 12:27 AM
Tiny
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It's an 80508-1 750 CFM vacuum secondary's has a square bore adapter in chromate. It's missing the screw that is used for retaining or adjusting, I'm not sure which, the pump cam. I guess that means I don't have one? Seems an odd thing not to have. Somewhere I read this is a single bowl feed but I have a duel feed now that may have been from pulling up info that comes up for other carbs like 80528 and others that I don't always realize that I've been reading other carb info.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 7:53 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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The 80508 is a dual feed carburetor based on the 4160 carb. Good carburetor for a hot rodded 454. The pump should be on the float bowl for the front cylinders with the pump cam and screw going in the area between the spring and throttle lever that you asked about. The pump arm attaches to the stud just in front of the throttle shaft similar to the image attached.

The book at
https://documents.holley.com/199r9934-3rev4.pdf

Covers a lot of the info on that carburetor.
https://documents.holley.com/techlibrary_4150_4160_exploded_view.pdf

Is an exploded view parts list. Yours is the 4160 version so be careful which parts you look at.
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Tuesday, May 4th, 2021 AT 11:22 PM
Tiny
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This is the image I have of the exploded view but there are entire lines missing that should show the connection of parts. There's no differentiation of the 4150/4160 parts All they had to do was put the model on the parts list or even just a 5 or 6, a or b, etc. But that one little screw that we've been talking about just past where the spring connects into the accelerator cam or whatever you want to call I don't have on my carb but the other parts of the pump I do. The screw itself doesn't even show on the exploded view. I don't see what that screw does and how it ties into the pump lever. The pump lever has to ride on top of the spring otherwise it hangs on the spring. But there's no way that the accelerator cam "screw" comes anywhere close to the pump lever regardless of rotation. I have no understanding of how the two connect. I thought at first maybe it was the trigger for the secondaries but that doesn't seem to be.

I took images and videos before I even started this carb cleaning. Shortly after my phone stop working and I had to go back to factory setup which I've done many times without problem. However, this last time it destroyed my data on the SD Card. That has never happened. The next several weeks I dedicated to trying to restore the SD Card which because of how Google does things saw it as a device without data and so it grabbed it for it's own use which destroyed the structure and a lot of the data I did my best to get what I could but it's a tedious job and thousands of files and you have to sit there and open or at least attempt to open every file to see if it's even an image or document or some horsed up piece of junk. I'm still going through files when I have time but I can't depend on them or even finding the ones that are currently critical. I used my old camera to try to capture the disassembly using a tripod but that's not so easy to do either you moved the thing an inch and your out of the field of view. This has been just one mess after another.
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2021 AT 7:54 PM

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