Charging voltage

The alternator isn't charging the battery. When you start the engine, the electrical draw from all the different modules, lights, fuel pump, and so on all require power to work. Since the alternator isn't producing voltage, the battery is working alone. Thus, you have a lower voltage.

First, confirm fuses are good. If you look at the last three pics below, they show fuses related to the alternator. Check them. Make sure there is power to and from them as well. Here is a link you may find helpful. Note, there is a 175-amp fuse tied with the alternator as well. See pic 4 below. I didn't highlight it because I feel it likely isn't the cause but check it if you find a power issue to fuse 26 in the under-hood fuse box.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Since you already checked the voltage, it sounds like the alternator needs replaced, especially if the fuses check good. You can remove it and have it bench tested at most parts stores. They will be able to confirm if it is working. Also, most will do it free of charge.

Here is a link that explains in general how one is replaced. You can use this to help guide you through the replacement process.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator

If you look at the two pics below, they are from the manual specific to your vehicle. When you work on the alternator, please make sure the battery is disconnected first. (Pics 1 and 2) Pic 3 is the wiring schematic for the charging system. I added it for reference.

Let me know what you find or if you have questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Hi,

That connects to the GEM (generic electronic module). You are drawing more power when it's connected because you have connected more electronics.

In this case, since it doesn't go above 12.3v, there is a good chance the alternator is bad. I would remove it and bench test it to confirm. Most parts stores will do it free of charge.

Let me know if you have other questions or if I can help in any way.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

Did you have the alternator bench tested to confirm? As far as the torque specs, the only one indicated in the manual for the tensioner is 18 ft/lb. The idler pulley is 35 ft/lb.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

Hi,

Yep, that's the tensioner. 10 to 20 ft/lbs should be fine.

Let me know if I can help.

Joe

Hi,

It's possible that the fuel is bad. By chance, has the engine light turned on? Let me know. Also, just do a quick inspection to make sure no vacuum hoses were left off or damaged as well as electrical connectors. Since it happened after the work, it's likely something really simple.

Here is a link that explains how to locate a leak:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Take care,

Joe

That is specific to that cylinder only. Make sure the spark plug wire at the coil wasn't damaged, shorting, or loose. Follow it from the coil to the plug.

Let me know what you find. I attached pics below showing the coil and engine cylinder locations for cylinder 6.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

You are no bother at all. That is excellent and thank you! I will send the link to the one guy in the pic, Ken. I know he will truly appreciate it.

Thanks again,

Joe

Wow! Thank you so much for the video. We are glad you like our service. My mom created it back in 1999.

Hi,

I plowed snow most of the day. Now, the wind is blowing it back on everything. Ugh! LOL

Were you able to check the spark plug wire for the cylinder misfire?

Let me know.

Joe