Camshaft alignment

The picture of the cams with the pointers indicating cam sprocket position was taken with the crankshaft marks lined up. I'll go ahead and repeat the cam/crank alignment procedure.
Let's restate what I need to do to get the timing dialed in.
To achieve the correct timing on this engine, all I need to do is (omitting mention of removing non-relevant engine parts):
1. Remove timing belt.
3. Align the crankshaft sprocket mark with the raised metal alignment mark on the oil pump
4. Rotate cams to match marks on cams to timing cover marks.
5. Lock cams in position. When the timing marks are on, the slots in the ends of the cams where the cam lock tool goes are slightly out of horizontal. The cam lock tool is made to lock the cams in a horizontal position, so the cams have to be turned slightly to horizontal, which throws the timing marks off a bit. I have to assume that this has no effect on actual engine performance.
6. Turn vvt hub clockwise, feeling spring tension, about an inch or so, until it stops. Find a way to lock it in that position.
7. Install timing belt, making sure that the vvt hub stays locked and spring-loaded.
8. Unlock the cams.
9. Turn the crankshaft slowly by hand 4-5 complete revolutions (or more if that's what you think you need to do) to confirm smooth operation. If there is resistance, stop and go back to step #1.
Please let me know if this is right or wrong. I thought this is what I did the last time, but the cam misalignment picture tells a different story. I'm heading out now to get the car prepped for the do-over. I'll check back before I get to the re-set point to look for a response.
I checked the connections on the injectors before I started the engine. The #2 connector did feel a little loose, so I unsnapped it and put it back on. It seems to have helped, but I can't be 100% sure because the timing issue sort of dominates right now.
I do appreciate the time you're investing in helping me get my baby back on the road. -Rick

Will do! Thanks!

Tried to send you an update with a photo from my phone but the email function is screwed up right now. I'll explain what the photo shows.
I took a pic of the ends of the cams with the crank set on the marks. The stamped writing on the intake end is at ABOVE the center of the cam; the writing on the end of the exhaust cam is at UNDER the center of the cam. The slots are almost perfectly horizontal. I'm going to have to rotate them slightly to install the cam lock.
In review, you wanted me to take the cam sprockets off and reinstall them with the marks lined up with the cover, correct? (Using the install method for the exhaust hub that you mentioned in the last communication). Then take a pic and send it to you for you to inspect before I fire it up. I'll do that when I'm done - if this glitch with my phone is straightened out.
Question: how does changing the sprocket position have an effect on cam alignment if the cams are locked during sprocket R and R? I'm thinking that the sprockets' purpose is to merely turn the cams - not having any effect on timing other than having a reference mark for cam position. I've been wondering about this since I started this project. Can you explain? It's going to be a couple of days before I can get back on it; can't get parts until Monday. Thanks again.

This is a 2-part answer. I'm doing this part on my PC because I have big fingers and a low tolerance for typos - which happens a lot on my iphone. I'll send you pics on my iphone after I finish this.
About this project: It began as a cam/crank seal replacement and PVC inspection and ballooned into a bunch of side fixes "because I'm in there and don't want to come back for a while."
I have an interesting situation going on with the cam sprockets. I may have mistaken a timing mark for another mark. I discovered this when what I used as the intake sprocket timing mark didn't line up with the marks on the cam cover. The bolts would only go in with what I thought was sprocketmark either about 30 degrees to the left or about 30 degrees to the right of the cam cover timing mark. Here's the weird part: The stamped "M" on the intake cam sprocket lined up perfectly with the cam cover timing mark when I installed the 3 bolts. What's going on here? Is the "M" stamp the true timing mark?
It's a little more puzzling on the vvt hub sprocket. The pics will show all of this.

About the oil control valve: Since I've never been low on oil, and, to be quite honest, I didn't know what an oil control valve was, I set that aside until you brought it up the second time. I Googled "oil control valve" and got results for "variable timing solenoid" and "camshaft adjust solenoid." They matched the picture you sent, so I unbolted it to look for oil. It did have oil. (I took a pic of it). Actually, the noise was coming from that area so that may be the problem. Question: How can I test it for functionality? Thanks again for hanging in there with me. I'm confident that it won't be long before I'm behind the wheel again.
One more question: My turbo isn't working - at least it didn't feel like it. I'd like to talk to you about that after we get these issues resolved. Thanks again. -Rick
Pics to follow from my iphone.

Here are pics of the cam sprocket marks in relation to timing cover marks.

The “M” mark on the sprocket lines up with bolts in; the thin mark does not.

This is a photo of the cam lock tool installed at the time that I took the cam photos. With the cam lock tool on, the intake cam sprocket mark- the thin line - will not matchup with the timing cover mark when the three bolts are installed; its either an inch or so to the left, or the same distance off to the right. Not that I think it’s right, but the “M” mark does, and perfectly This is really messing with my head.
The exhaust hub/sprocket will spin wherever I want it to go, so it’s not at issue as far as I know.
The oil control valve/variable timing solenoid was full of oil when I removed it.

This is me turning the engine over by hand after getting everything dialed in. Hear the noise coming from the vvt area? Thanks again.

Can get a definitive answer on whether or "oil control valve", "variable timing solenoid", and "camshaft adjust solenoid" is the same part. I need to know in case I need to buy one. Thanks.

Thanks.

I made and posted the video in the hope you guys would play it and tell me what you think of the sound.
If you guys are burned out on helping me with this, that's cool, but it would be really helpful if you could tell me, by listening to the sound, if you think the vvt or solenoid is bad.

It sounded like that before I took it apart.(Please also watch the last video where I turned the engine over by hand. I put the camera close to the vvt hub and solenoid). The sound came and went for months, then stayed. I assumed that it was a tensioner, idler, or another part on one of the belts - alternator bearing? But all of those parts are new now and I've isolated the sound to the vvt area.
I did clean the throttle body when I had the intake manifold off. I also cleaned the MAF sensor and double-checked all of the injector, spark plug, and other electrical connections. I'll see how this works during the second test drive.
When I first started the engine before the first test drive, it idled steady at about 1,000 RPM for about 20 seconds, then starts crapping out for another 20, then surges, then dies. When I drove it, it ran smoothly at 2,000 RPM and up, but lacked power. When I pulled into my driveway on return, it idled pretty rough. That's when I parked it back in the shop and walked away for two days.
Now I've reset the timing - making sure the vvt hub was spring-loaded against the timing belt as it should be.
I installed a new evap and PVC system because of oil leaks. Then I installed new cam and crank seals. After I can back from the recent 15-mile test drive, I noticed oil leaking from the new oil filler cap. The one thing I didn't do when I went through the PVC system was check the tube that goes into the oil sump for clogging. I'm taking the pan off tomorrow so I can clean it. Finally, I'm going to change the oil (Castrol GTX Magnatec 5w-30 full synthetic) and filter and take it for a second test drive to see how everything works. That IS unless you tell me that I shouldn't.
I know my communications are wordy; I write this way to try to be exact. Please read what I write carefully; I've noticed that a few times you've asked me questions I'd already answered. Thanks.

So that means go ahead and drive it.
On the injector: I haven't pulled any codes since I shut it down and started pulling parts off the second time. I'll pull new codes after I fire it up.