Camshaft alignment

Welcome to 2CarPros.

The crankshaft pulley will only fit one way. It should have a key-way that only allows it to go one way. Here are the directions for replacing the belt. All attached pics correlate with the directions.

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TIMING BELT, REPLACING
Timing belt, replacing

Special tools:
999 5433 COUNTERHOLD See: Vehicle > Electrical / Mechanical Repair > 999 5433 Counterhold

Remove components

pic 1

Caution! Remove the ignition key.

Remove:
- the cross stay between the suspension turrets
- the upper camshaft belt cover
- the servo reservoir and expansion tank.
Lift them up and place them on top of the engine

Warning! Ensure that no power steering fluid is spilled. It is extremely flammable!

- the auxiliaries belt
- the front camshaft belt cover.

Position the engine according to the marking

pic 2

Remove the right front wheel.
Remove the nut from the cover in the fender liner.
Install the upper camshaft belt cover.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the markings on the crankshaft and camshaft pulley correspond.
Turn the crankshaft a further 1/4 turn clockwise and then back again until the markings correspond. The markings are illustrated.
Remove the upper camshaft belt cover.

Removing the camshaft belt

pic 3

Slacken off the belt tensioner.
There are two variants of the belt tensioner.
Up to engine number 3188688 the eccentric must be turned clockwise when loosening.
From engine number 3188689 the eccentric must be turned anticlockwise to loosen the belt tension.
- Slacken off the belt tensioner center screw slightly.
- Hold the center screw in position and, depending on the variant, turn the eccentric on the tensioner to 10 o'clock (clockwise) or 2 o'clock (anticlockwise) using a 6 mm allen key.
- Remove the camshaft belt from the tension pulley, camshaft pulley and water pump.

Pic 4

Remove the vibration damper.
Remove the oscillation damper. Use counterhold 999 5433 COUNTERHOLD See: Vehicle > Electrical / Mechanical Repair > 999 5433 Counterhold. Work the oscillation damper loose.
Remove the camshaft belt.

Checking the tension pulley and idler pulley

pic 5

Check for bearing wear:
Spin the idler pulley and listen for noise. If replacing with a new idler pulley, tighten to 24 Nm.
Spin the tension pulley and listen for noise. When replacing, screw the tension pulley into place with the center screw.
Spin the tension pulley and listen for noise. If replacing, screw the tension pulley into place with the center screw.
Screw in the center screw by hand.
Ensure that the tensioner fork is centered over the cylinder block rib.
Ensure that the allen hole on the eccentric is at "10 o'clock".

Installing the camshaft belt

pic 6

Note: For information regarding Variable Valve Timing see: Variable Valve Timing Actuator, Adjustments See: Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Adjustments
Also see Belt Drive, Assembly See: Timing Belt > Removal and Replacement > Belt Drive, Assembly

Install the camshaft belt over pulley wheel on the crankshaft.
Install the oscillation damper. Tighten the center nut to 180 Nm. Use counterhold 999 5433 COUNTERHOLD See: Vehicle > Electrical / Mechanical Repair > 999 5433 Counterhold.
Remove the counterhold and install new screws. Tighten the screws to 25 Nm. Angle-tighten 30°

Install the new belt in the following order:
- crankshaft
- idler pulley
- intake camshaft pulley
- exhaust camshaft pulley
- water pump
- belt tensioner.

Tighten the timing belt

pic 7

This adjustment is to be made with a cold engine. A suitable temperature is approximately 20°C/68°F.
At higher temperatures, for example with engine at operating temperature or at higher ambient temperature, the needle is further to the right.
The position of the needle, when aligning the camshaft belt tensioner at different engine temperatures, is shown in the illustration.

Pic 8

Tighten the timing belt:
There are two variants of the belt tensioner.
From engine number 3188688 the eccentric must be turned anticlockwise to tighten the belt.
From engine number 3188689 the eccentric must be turned clockwise to tension the belt.
- turn the crankshaft clockwise carefully until the camshaft belt is tensioned. The belt should be tight between the intake camshaft pulley, idler pulley and crankshaft.
- hold the center screw on the belt tensioner in position and turn the eccentric on the belt tensioner clockwise/anticlockwise, depending on the variant, until the tensioner's needle passes the marked position.
Then turn the eccentric back so that the indicator reaches the marked position in the center of the window.
- Secure the eccentric and tighten the center screw to 20 Nm.
Check that the needle is in the correct position.

Check

pic 9

Checking markings:
- press the belt to check that the indicator on the tensioner moves easily.
- install the upper timing belt cover.
- turn the crankshaft 2 turns and check that the markings on the crankshaft and camshaft pulley correspond.
- check that the indicator on the belt tensioner is within the marked area.

Reinstall

pic 10

Reinstall the removed components:
- the front camshaft belt cover.
Tighten to 12 Nm
- the upper camshaft belt cover
- install the auxiliaries belt
- the servo reservoir
- the expansion tank

Note! Ensure that the hoses are correctly positioned.

- the cross member. Tighten the screws at the suspension turret to 50 Nm and the screw for the engine bracket to 80 Nm.
Wipe clean and check the engine compartment
- the cover in the fender liner
- the front wheel according to Installing wheels See: Wheels > Removal and Replacement.

Checking work

Function test:
- Test drive the engine
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Let me know if this helps.

Joe

Hello and welcome to 2CarPros. First off I would not recommend you take off the cam cover since that is what holds your camshafts in place especially if you do not have much experience. The 2 notches on the crank sprocket is for you to align the crank to the oil pump dimple. See image below. The dimple aligns in between the 2 notches on the crank sprocket.

I also attached an image on how the tool set up is. Set your crank up as illustrated and then remove the timing belt. That will give you some room to move the cams a bit to set up the cam lock tool. Once set up you can remove the VVT sprockets to replace the cam seals. As a Volvo tech I already had my system of how to set the sprockets back up.

Before you remove the sprockets you will notice they are locked clockwise. Meaning it has enough play to go counter clockwise and back. Also check the VVT pulley for play. Majority of oil leaks is not the cam seals. It is the VVT hub that leaks so I recommend you replace them. Pricey but your already in.

Order new cam hub caps as well and the bolts. The actual tooth sprocket needs to be transferred over to the hub. Once you do that and reassemble snug the bolts to where you can turn the hubs clockwise and line the mark to the cover. Once lined up torque the center bolt and then install the center caps and install the timing belt. If you have any questions to the repair please do not hesitate to ask but do not remove the cam cover. Trust me, you are asking for headaches!

Also what fault codes did you get to suspect a misaligned exhaust hub? Majority of timing codes is a bad oil control valve, low oil level or low oil pressure? Any ticking sounds at idle? Also while engine running and hot pull dipstick and check for foam on the dipstick. That would indicate an internal oil leak with the pick up tube seals and can cause timing codes. Let us know please.

Thanks for the reply. I just did my friends XC90 for a leak and it was the exhaust hub. For the most part, Volvo is bullet proof from leaks until those hubs go bad. But your on the right track with having the tools handy for such a task. You are in good hands here since all of us here put together have years of experience. Let us know when your ready to do the repair. It is no easy task but from my earlier post, it is much simpler then the repair guide that has you do more then you need to do.

Welcome back:

Once you get it together, turn it by hand several revolutions. If it stops, don't force it. By doing that, at least you will know if there will be any damage or if the timing is wrong. Don't use the starter to do it.

Let me know how things work out or if you have questions.

Take care,
Joe

Those oil leaks is usually a result of a plug PCV system. The oil trap and banjo bolt get plugged up and causes pressure to build up. Your lucky it did not take out the turbo. Have seen that with the inline 6 twin turbo engines.

Welcome back:

I love the description. LOL.

Were you able to make any progress?

Joe

Welcome back:

Not a problem. When you get back to it, let me know. As far as cleaning, protect electrical components and make sure nothing is open to allow water to get into the engine. Basically exactly what you said.

Joe

Yes. Other brand plugs cause them to misfire for some crazy reason.

Let us know if that fixes the issue. Also, what brand plug are in it now?

Joe