Camshaft alignment

Tiny
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I'll take a stab at it and see if I can pull it off. Thanks.
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Tuesday, September 10th, 2019 AT 8:28 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS is one of our best! Please let us know what happens Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on, that would be great. You can upload it here with your response.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 11:51 AM
Tiny
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I can't pull that off because it isn't running yet. I just heard it as I was turning the engine over by hand for a final check. I can try it, but it'll probably be a long video because the spark plugs are in and torqued and it'll be harder to turn over. Stay tuned, I'll send you what I get.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 12:23 PM
Tiny
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In the process of setting up the shot and seeing which tool would work best for this situation, I spun the engine over a few times. It seems to have gotten a lot quieter. It's more like a soft click than a pop now; I'm not even sure you could hear it over the background noise. Let's put this on the back burner until I get it running. I appreciate your putting focus on this.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 3:08 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Welcome back:
Just make sure nothing seems loose, out of alignment, or even something touching. Chances are it is not anything to worry about, but without being there to hear and feel it, it's hard to say.

Let us know how it is running and if you still hear anything.

Joe
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 6:10 PM
Tiny
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I need to know where the green/red wire with the female end goes, From what I can tell from the length, it either goes to the starter or the fan, but I can’t see the connection. Also, how should I approach the first start of the engine after doing this work. What should I listen for? Should I just let it idle for.. And then drive it, or what? I’ve got my fingers crossed!
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 8:03 PM
Tiny
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Not looking forward to the dreaded banjo bolt on the intake manifold.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 8:05 PM
Tiny
JIS001
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Hello and welcome back. Can you start a new question please since this one is related to the cam timing.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 10:20 PM
Tiny
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Sure! And it makes sense to keep things in categories. I'm in the home stretch and am wondering what to keep an eye/ear out for when I hit the key after cam alignment, new timing and serpentine belts, water pump, tensioners and rollers, Volvo spark plugs, and sitting idle for two months. But wait, there's more. I'll be filling the power steering and cooling system reservoirs, too, with new fluid, so I need to know how to fill and "burp" them properly. Thanks again! P.S. I won't be offended if you tell me stuff I already know. I left my ego back at the $5,000.00 mark, so talk to me like an 8-year-old if you feel like it; I don't want to destroy my engine just because I thought I knew it all!
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Sunday, September 15th, 2019 AT 1:58 PM
Tiny
JIS001
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Hello and welcome. Fill both coolant expansion bottle with coolant. Use a Euro Blue coolant. The power steering fill with CHF 11S which is usually green hydraulic fluid. Using a floor jack, raise the front wheels up. Turn the key to position 2 and wait 5 seconds and turn off. Do this procedure 3 times to build fuel pressure. Start up the vehicle and set the heater on with the A/C compressor off and fans set to high. Turn wheel left to right full lock 20 times to get the power steering fluid flowing. Check and top off fluid.

Once fluid is to the correct level on power steering raise your RPM's to 2,500. The coolant fans should come on there own that is why it is important to turn off the A/C compressor off or they are always running. Once the fans cycle on and off twice, shut the vehicle off and let it cool down. Once cold, remove the expansion tank cap and top off the coolant and you should be good.
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Sunday, September 15th, 2019 AT 8:48 PM
Tiny
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Thanks! Any other tips on startup after installing new oil seals, belts, tensioners, water pump and sitting for two months with the battery disconnected?
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Monday, September 16th, 2019 AT 2:44 PM
Tiny
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Lack of power and this is a video of the engine idling. Any idea of what could be causing this? Thanks for for excellent advice.
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Tuesday, September 17th, 2019 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
JIS001
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I see the Check Engine light came on. Scan it for codes to give us an idea as to what triggered the light.
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Tuesday, September 17th, 2019 AT 8:46 PM
Tiny
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Will do.
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Tuesday, September 17th, 2019 AT 11:29 PM
Tiny
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Using a Foxwell NT 301 code reader, I pulled these codes: PO342 - "Camshaft position sensor A circuit low bank 1 or single sensor." P0014 - B camshaft position timing over advanced or system performance bank 1." P1238 - "Cyl 2 fuel injection circ. Open circ."

What do I do, doc?
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Wednesday, September 18th, 2019 AT 10:56 PM
Tiny
JIS001
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Hello and welcome back. When you put the vehicle back together P1238 verify you properly connected the fuel injector connector to cylinder #2. If the lock tab broke then you need to replace the connector.

Now to the timing codes. I believe I may have heard some rattling sounds? If there was a rattling/ticking sound then remove the oil control valve. Place some rags around the hole and disable the fuel pump. Have some one turn the key to crank over the engine to see if oil pumps out. Normally when the valve rattles around it is because your really low on oil! If there is oil pumping out then either the solenoid is bad or you did not time your vehicle correctly?

What is a concern to me is if you are off timing the tapping sound could be the valves tapping the pistons or you could just have a bad exhaust hub on the sprocket? I hate to say this but install the cam lock tool again to align the timing and make sure the oil pump dimple aligns in between the 2 dimples on the crank sprocket.

If you went out the way for this repair for a P0014 to begin with then you may have just been low on oil or the oil control valve was just faulty? Let us know please.
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Wednesday, September 18th, 2019 AT 11:26 PM
Tiny
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I took the engine up to 4, 00 RPM for a few seconds on the test drive and there was no rattle. - It sounded pretty good in fact. It's that below 1,000 RPM behavior that's concerning.. Tell you what, rather than take anything apart, I think I'll make a better video - recorded in the engine compartment so you can hear better. I checked and rechecked the timing marks before I fired it up, but I'll check them again on your recommendation. Glad to hear the injector issue could be an easy fix. I'll do that first so maybe I won't have to jam a stick on the accelerator to keep it running while I make the new video. I'm a one-man show here. Thanks again!
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Thursday, September 19th, 2019 AT 12:16 PM
Tiny
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P.S. The oil level was midway between the hash marks. I need to drop the pan to clean out the tube that comes off the oil trap - the only thing left to do after replacing the evap/pvc system - due to oil coming out of the breather cap. (The original box was plugged). Changing oil (synthetic) and filter after that. Didn't want to buy more regular oil if the oil level appeared to be fine.
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Thursday, September 19th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM
Tiny
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Here’s a video. On cold start - before I took the video - it idled at about 900-1000 RPM for a minute, then started idling rough, like the last video. The picture: my crank marks are lined up but you’ll notice the cam marks are way out. The sticks point at the timing marks on the cams. The timing marks on the cam cover are highlighted in white. Looks like about 180 degrees. I hope I’m wrong.
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Thursday, September 19th, 2019 AT 11:54 PM
Tiny
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Checking to see if the video went through.
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Friday, September 20th, 2019 AT 12:06 AM

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