Alternator wiring diagram?

The link is in the positive cable right near the battery terminal. Check the ASD relay as well. Here is the wiring diagrams for the alternator so you can see how the system works with a guide to test the wiring as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

I guess that Dodge must lie then.

These are the wiring diagrams for that vehicle and both show that it has a fusible link (A111 Dark. Green ten gauge) spliced to the black with gray wire that goes to the alternator at the battery end.

And in your complaint about being given wrong information you state "Main big cable from post is to the starter/starter solenoid, smaller red cable (ten gauge) goes to the PDC, also to the PDC is a dark green cable (ten gauge) and that's to the PCM. NO FUSIBLE LINKS"

The dark green wire is the fusible link. It is bonded (electrical splice 09) to the Black with gray stripe about one foot down the harness.

Go look at the wire on the battery terminal of your alternator. What color is it?

I agree with Steve W. The fusible links are near the battery on the fender well of the drivers side tire and they fail often I have replaced many myself.

Ken - Site Admin

There's a lot of misinformation here. You found the dull dark green wire. That is the fuse link wire. Tug on it. If it acts like a wire, it's good. If it acts like a rubber band, it's burned open. The problem is it doesn't come off the battery cable like in years past. The smaller positive battery wire bolts to the under-hood fuse box. That connection is where the fuse link wire is bolted.

The next problem is most of these diagrams only show what is relevant to the specific circuit. You could have multiple fuse link wires bolted to that connection, but the one for the alternator does not go to the Engine Computer. It goes straight to the alternator's output terminal.

There is no need to even have to know where that fuse is unless testing proves otherwise. Just measure the voltage on the alternator's output stud. It should have full battery voltage all the time. If it does, you're done in that circuit.

Forget the ASD relay. It's true that it sends current to the alternator's field winding, but it also powers the ignition coil pack and injectors. If the engine runs, the ASD relay is turning on. Less than ten seconds to eliminate those two circuits.

It is also correct the voltage regulator lives inside the Engine Computer, but it is incapable of being damaged by the alternator. They put it there to simplify the circuitry needed to provide information used to modify the target charging voltage. That can include wide-open-throttle, turning on the AC compressor, engine running too hot, ambient air / battery temperature real cold, etc. It is possible for the regulator circuit to fail, but it's not very common. I've only run into one since 1990. That low-current circuit is also real easy to test. Look at the two smaller terminals bolted to the back of the alternator. The engine must be running for them to have voltage from the ASD relay. One will have full battery voltage. The other one must have less, but not 0 volts. If you find 0 volts, the brushes are worn. (Nine bucks for a replacement assembly). If you find exactly the same voltage on both terminals, there is a break after that point. That could be the voltage regulator is open, but it is much more likely there's a corroded terminal in the connector going to it.

Typically you'll find between 4-11 volts on the second terminal. The lower the voltage, the greater the difference there is across the two of them, and the larger the electromagnetic field is. That one voltage will tell you if the low-current input circuit, including the voltage regulator, is working.

Looking it up by VIN wouldn't matter. The wiring doesn't change for the charging system based on the option package for the Caravan.
The accident it was in however could easily have changed that. Whoever repaired it probably decided that a straight run of 10 gauge green fuse link was easier than splicing together the wiring like the OEM part. Not uncommon. Did the PDC also get replaced at that time?

Either way, you seem to have it repaired. Good luck with it. Oh does it have the clunk in the front that they get after about 80K when the sway bar bushings wear out?

If you "have reasons", please share them so we can have the same confidence in your diagnosis as you do. Also, please start a new question specific to your vehicle, and be sure to include the engine size and mileage. Some diagrams are different for different engine sizes, and we look at the mileage when making some judgement calls. When you add to an old question, it was a private conversation between just a few people, and they are the only ones who will get an automated e-mail link when an addition is posted. As such, none of the other experts will see your addition or have a chance to reply. That limits the help you will receive. Your new question might also help others researching this topic.

We can try to solve your problem here, but if you need to start a new question, here's a shortcut to get you there quicker:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

There were four sizes of alternators available for this model and year. The wiring harness will always be the same except for the fuse or fusible link. Those are selected at the factory for the size of the alternator being installed. In this case, all they show is a 10-gauge wire, denoted by its dark green insulation. In this diagram, the fuse link is shown way up in the top right corner with my green arrow pointing to it. The small circle on top indicates that end is bolted to the under-hood fuse box. "ES09" right below it indicates that is a soldered splice to the wire it protects. That is circuit "A11 6 BK/GR". "A" circuits are always tied right to the battery positive side. This is circuit A11. It's a 6-gauge wire with black insulation and a gray tracer, (stripe). Most commonly these fuse links are part of a larger bundle of wires, but they are left out where they can be seen.

The place to start is by measuring the voltage at the alternator's large output terminal with the engine not running. That's the red arrow in the diagram. You must find that voltage is the same as battery voltage at all times. If you find 0 volts, suspect the fuse link is burned open. It's best to check this with a test light rather than a digital voltmeter. The advantage to using a fuse link wire is they are slow-acting, so they tolerate momentary current surges. The disadvantage is when they burn open, they leave a carbon track behind, and those can conduct enough current for a digital voltmeter to pick it up and falsely show there's 12 volts at the output terminal. A test light needs current flow to operate, and sufficient current can't get through that carbon track to make the bulb light up. For that reason, test lights are more accurate in this type of circuit.

If you need a new fuse link, they can be purchased at any auto parts store. You'll get a piece about a 8" long. That is plenty to be cut to make two or three repairs. The length of the fuse link isn't important. All that matters is this is the weak link in the chain, so it will burn open before the rest of the wire overheats.

Is that all one sentence? Do you mean you get 90 amps during a load test or there is a sticker on it that says it's a 90 amp alternator? What are the three voltages on the three alternator wires? The two smaller ones must be measured with the engine running.

Caradiodoc

There is no ground wire can you ID color? Think it is Black/Gray if so power feed from BATT cable through a fuesible link. That maybe what fried. Was ALT light on before?

Yep that is power lead

Remove ALT see if ypou can cut insulation away. Will need to soilder a 10AMP fuselink. May end up having to replace charging loom. Have ALT tested to see if that is reason for wire frying