22R engine will not idle after warming up and then stalls and shuts while driving

Thank you so much for this info! With the replaced (aftermarket or rebuilt carburetor since these are no longer manufactured), I suppose the fuel cut-off solenoid (or valve) could be defective, but we will see.

Due to the high miles on the engine, I plan on also going ahead and replacing the oxy / fuel sensor, signal generator, engine temperature sensor, and temperature send switch.

What is the specific name of that part shown in picture #2 with the green wire?

Hello again. I appreciate and have replied to your first response to my situation, but am still waiting on some of the parts I ordered to come in. A mechanic will be doing most of the work based on your recommendation from June 24th until he is done. So, I will respond as soon as I have an update on what is going on. Thanks again.

What is the specific name of that part shown in picture #2 with the green wire?

Thank you for that information. Is this on a 1987 Toyota Pickup 22R engine? The auto parts store did not name this part when I asked for all idle parts. :(

In my original question, I mentioned that I had the carburetor replaced. So, I am assuming that the carburetor had a new idle solenoid on it.

So, this means that there might be a blown fuse. Where is this fuse located?

One other question. What does the other end of this idle solenoid plug into? Is it one of the other temperature sensors in the engine?

Again, I thank you for your kind, considerate assistance.

Thank you again for the info. I will be dropping off my truck today to the mechanic with your info and will provide a follow-up with the attempted repair(s).

I have attached a pic of my truck you have been helping me with.

Well, I got my truck back today and am still disappointed as it is not fixed. It's like he ignored the printouts of your advice. Here is what he wrote:

>>> "Customer states that engine dies and runs rough. Started off by looking over previous repairs and didn’t seem to find anything there. I then started with spraying brake cleaner to check for a vacuum leak. Found the RPMs change when sprayed under air cleaner housing. Took off air cleaner and blocked off vacuum lines to air cleaner and resprayed and found EGR system leaking vacuum. I blocked off EGR system and retested using smoke machine and also found a loose fitting vacuum line on carb. After those leakers test to not leak anymore I reassembled and test drove to find that it doesn’t die like it did and run smoother than it was. I’m sure there is more wrong but is now drivable." "Replaced the EGR gasket with a "home-made" gasket because one was not available at the auto parts, and plugged off a loose vacuum line"

Here is a picture of what was plugged off. They seem to be pretty important vacuums to me. I do not know if a single vacuum line connects these two together or what.

If possible, in your reply could you furnish the name of the part on the left and where the vacuum lines are supposed to go for me or the next mechanic? Pictures and diagrams sure would help, as I doubt, I will be able to figure this out. Thanks again.

I hope this doesn't post twice. There was an error posting it the first time.

These vacuum line schematics are impossible to read. I guess I see why no one is able to figure this out. It is impossible to sort out everything and find exactly where each connection goes in the tiny spaces covered by vacuum lines routed to valves, sensors, etc.

Yes, the "choke opener" is attached to the carburetor.

I am located in Minnesota but bought the truck in New Mexico. According to the emissions control sticker, my 1987 Toyota IS NOT California emissions rated, it is Federal rated.

The plugged metal vacuum line with the vertical yellow arrow #2 (from my new attached picture) is connected to a small group of metal tubes that branch out going to other areas of the engine with rubber vacuum line connections.

The FED schematic you furnished appears to show a vacuum line coming from the plugged choke opener going to the other plugged tube, but then splits off somewhere else as best as I can tell.

Here is another surprise: I found another plugged off vacuum connection on the carburetor directly above the plugged metal tube (arrow #2) next to the adjustment screws, arrow #3 (see attached picture). Arrows #1 and #2 are the ones we have previously been discussing. Arrow #3 is a new discovery.

So, now there are three plugged vacuum lines! What a mess! The problem has to be found somewhere in these vacuum lines. How to figure out where they go?

I will try a couple of things such as running a hose between 1 and 2 leaving 3 plugged as you suggest. Then try running a hose between 1 and 2 with a splitter and hose going to number 3 and see how it runs with each set-up.

I will do my best to try and backtrace the distributor vacuum line back to its original destination. This should be fun. :)

I hope you have a nice 4th as well.