Motor not starting up

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
This is not going to be easy and would required detailed explanation if you have never done this before.

Don't jump the gun first.

Remove the spark plugs. Pump 2 cc of engine oil into each cylinder via the spark plug holes. Depress the accelerator pedal fully and crank the engine for 5 seconds. Stop for a minute. Repeat cranking for another 5 seconds. Test the pressure again. If the pressure is up to specs, reinstall the sprak plugs and other components and retry starting.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, August 25th, 2011 AT 11:26 AM
Tiny
NSSVTR
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Yea we got nothing didnt work bud the Pressure was still around 90psi or some of the cylinders was at 30psi what would be the next step?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 28th, 2011 AT 2:36 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Guess you would have to check the valves for leaking. Recheck the valve timing first. Remove the camshafts and apply regulated compressed air into the cylinders via the spark plug holes and note if there are any leakages from the intake or exhaust manifold. Repeat for each cylinder.

If there are leakages, then you have bent some valves when the engine broke doen initially.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 28th, 2011 AT 4:56 PM
Tiny
NSSVTR
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Well we were informed that the head gasket is possibly bad how do we exactly get to this we are stuck I got the cam spocket off and the timing chain off and suspended that was a pain but how do I exactly get the top of the motor off?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, August 31st, 2011 AT 10:15 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
After removing anything that is linked to the head, manifolds etc, loosen the cylinder head bolts and you would be able to remove the head since you have already taken the chains off. Did you turn the engine so that the timing chains links matches up before removing the sprockets?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, August 31st, 2011 AT 10:20 PM
Tiny
NSSVTR
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Thanks man helped alot yeah I put the car in time before removing the sprockets the head is off now there is some black on the pistons like carbon built up but nothing major ummm cylinder 1 and 4 are up and 2 and 3 are down what do you take on that? Everyone keeps telling me now to check the valves how hard and pricy of a fix could this be if there is something wrong?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, September 1st, 2011 AT 4:35 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
The pistons are lined up correctly.

Check the valves and not if any are not seated evenly, an indication of bent valves. If the valves are seated evenly, remove the valve springs and check if they all move freely. Using grinding pastes, lap the valves and use petrol to test them for leakages after lapping (grinding) them.

If there is anything wrong with the valves, worst case scenario would be to replace the head but most likely you would need to replace the valves at the most. Lapping (grinding) of valves would be required if they are replaced. You can send them to specialist shops to have them perform the job for you.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, September 1st, 2011 AT 5:19 PM
Tiny
NSSVTR
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Ok I will be working on the valves later tonight thanks for that now mechanic said compression problems could be piston's like the piston rings are fried everyone keeps telling me I need to take the bottom half of the motor out to check them is this true? If not how can I do it with the bottom part of the motor still hooked to the tranny if its possible
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, September 11th, 2011 AT 6:56 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Look at the liners and note if any are scored, that would be an indication of bad piston rings. Usually piston rings would be damaged by overheating and if none had occured, the possibility are low.

If the valves are in good order, then you would have to check the piston rings. It is easy to check for bent valves. Since the cam shafts were aready removed, the valves should be seated evenly. Any that is not seated evenly at the combustion chamber side means the valve is bent.

The lower portion of the engine can be remove from under vehicle without engine removal from vehicle but it is not easy to work with and installation requires extra care and as sealants would have to be used, you need to get all the oil cleaned and surface areas dried.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, September 11th, 2011 AT 10:35 PM
Tiny
NSSVTR
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Well came back the valves were fine can you give me a better detailed layout on how to take out the pistons? Wile the block is still in well the bottom part of the motor that is. Thanks
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, September 19th, 2011 AT 12:04 AM
Tiny
NSSVTR
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Just ignore that picture I didnt mean to put that on there
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, September 19th, 2011 AT 12:05 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
First thing you need to do is to remove the oil pan.
Afer that you can remove the pistons one by one.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, September 19th, 2011 AT 12:45 PM
Tiny
NSSVTR
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Hey im having trouble removing the oil pump to get the my 1st and 2nd cylinder I know its a 12point or star socket at least I believe so same as I use to get the piston's off but I tried a 10mm and it was too big and a 9mm is too small = so what do I use? How do I get this damn thing off. Also the piston in Cylinder 4 is basically stuck I cant get it to come out through like I did with cylinder 3 that piston just came right out in a few hits. Is there a little trick I can do to get the piston out of cylinder 4?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 19th, 2012 AT 5:17 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
I believe it is the oil strainer you are refering to. Our database does not have any information on the type of bolt head used and if I remember correct, it should be a torx bit bolt head.

Spray some rust penetrant between piston #4 and cylinder walls and allow to soak for a while. It should help to free up the stuck piston. Use a wooden bar and hammer to tap against the connectng rod to push it outwards.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 19th, 2012 AT 7:16 PM
Tiny
HECOR VELEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 112,713 MILES
While car running fifteen mph engine stop, in two (2) locations turn on and stop again. We had to tow it home. When I perform TS engine cranks but will not start. All fuses are okay, No spark, fuel working.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, April 29th, 2017 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
Hello,

It sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor has gone bad, but to be sure take a look at this article to do some other checks and get back top us.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, April 29th, 2017 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RANDYASEARS
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
  • 2004 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 12,000 MILES
Engine Mechanical problem
2004 Nissan Sentra 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 120, 00 miles

I have a 2004 Nissan Sentra that has had trouble starting. If it sits for a decent amount of time (couple of hours at least) it more than likely won't start on first crank. If it does start, it putters and dies. It will eventually start and run perfectly. Well today my fiance was driving down the road and it died out of nowhere. I went to pick her up. Went home to call a towing company. I came back to the car (about 30 minutes later), turn the key 5 times to turn the power on but not start the car. Then it suddenly started when I tried to start it. Took it down to the gas station to put gas in it. I left it running in the lot for about 5 minutes and it died again and now won't start again. Any ideas what it could be?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, April 29th, 2017 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Hi
Any check engine light on? Suspect fuel pump can you hear pump run? Need to check fuel pressure. Also check for spark pull plug wire hold 1/4 in. From block spark?
Let me know
Thanks for donate
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, April 29th, 2017 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RANDYASEARS
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
I did hear the fuel pump running. The Check Engine light was on but we ran it and it said something about an o2 sensor. That was changed and it went off and now nothing. I haven't yet checked for spark. It's now on it's way to the shop. I'll have to go up there over the weekend and check and see if there's spark.
Apparently this is a common issue with nissan sentras and the only person i've ever found that had success in fixing it had to have his timing chain replaced. Does that sound like something that would fix this problem?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, April 29th, 2017 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Hi
Been out with flu so could not respond. Not sure it Timing issue. What happened at shop?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, April 29th, 2017 AT 2:04 PM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links