Car will not start

This is not a cylinder head gasket issue. That has nothing to do with too much fuel. The vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator is the proper place to look for fuel leaking into it, but as for blowing through it, which way are you blowing? You should have free flow into the intake manifold, not into the regulator.

The cam and crank sensors aren't the problem either. If they do not work, you will not have spark.

Check for a crushed or restricted fuel return line between the fuel pressure regulator and the gas tank. That will cause the fuel pressure to be too high, and too much fuel will spray in. To temporarily stop the fuel flow, you can remove the fuel pump fuse or relay, but you will need a scanner to view live data to look for other causes. The mass air flow sensor has the biggest say in how much fuel enters the engine. It is operation can be observed on the scanner. If you have just one or two cylinders getting too much fuel, you might look for their control wire being shorted to ground. The driver circuit in the engine computer could be shorted too, but that is not common. Either condition will hold those injectors open all the time and you will get way too much fuel. The clue there is to measure fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge. The engine has to be cranking for the fuel pump to run. With the ignition switch on but not cranking the engine, fuel pressure must stay up. If it bleeds down, an injector is sticking open or is being turned on. Measure the voltage between the pair of wires to see if it is an electrical problem or a mechanical problem. If you find voltage across a pair of injector wires, we have to determine why. If you find 0 volts but it is still spraying fuel, that injector is stuck open.

Will the engine run when you spray starting fluid? Here is a guide to help us get started:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers

It sounds like you have a timing chain issue. Can you test the compression to see if it is low? This will confirm the issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers

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Hi vallegs11,

Thanks for the donation.

Based on your description of the symptoms and test done, it should be electrical.

Did your mechanic test for sparks at the plugs?

Was the CEL showing when the car started to misbehave?

Hi vallegs11,

CEL = Check Engine light in the meter.

Ask him the question about the sparks.

Has the distributor and its components been checked?

Any fuse blown?

Is there power supply to the distributor when ignition switch is turned on?

Ask more questions to make your mechanic sweat. ;)

Check the coolant temperature sensor and cold start injector time switch and cold start injector.

Cold start injector injects fuel for a short period of time-before the CTS takes over to demand fuel from the computer.

Hi vallegs11,

Get a scan done to find out if there are any error data stored in the ECM.

When there is no sparks from the coil, either it is bad or it is not receiving the signal to work.

It could be a faulty crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. Check their resistance.

Resistance should be more than zero and not infinity. Measure between pins 1 to 2 and 1to 3.

Check the CTS connection make sure its tight

Check the CTS resistances warm and cold-should have a high resistance when cold and decreases when hot. CTS should be close by the thermostat housing-not really familiar with this model.

The computer uses the CTS signal to determine how long to open the injectors for fuel demand during open loop mode -meaning when the engine is cold before the oxygen sensor takes over

Check the throttle position and airflow meter sensors connectors and bench test the AFM.