No spark

Forget testing the ignition coil. The numbers in the service manual are for reference only, to give you an approximate idea of what "normal" is. Half of the properly-working coils you measure will fall outside that acceptable range. Also, unless a terminal was physically damaged during the prior disassembly, the coil didn't fail from just sitting.

Do you have breaker point or electronic ignition? Start by measuring the voltage on the positive terminal of the ignition coil with the ignition switch turned on. See if it changes while you slowly rotate the crankshaft by hand. Next, measure that voltage again during cranking. Tell me what you find.

I am going see where you go with this Doc!

Wife in the hospital, I am on an ancient laptop, good many of my pictures and diagrams are on the mega computer at at the house.

Gotta know SOFTPICKLE, Do you really Love your Jeep?

The Medic

Has this puppy run at all since you have had it/ or installed this engine?

Have you had the distributor out of it? Or anybody?

Does it even cough or spit? Or is it just empty dry over and overs?

Can you list any modifications that have been made that could affect this situation?

Is this your 1st point system Jeep?

Me too! Got my 1st '77 CJ-5 in '81. Five more CJ-5s along the way. And then "Willy" My '46 Willys.

At present, my last '77 CJ-5 ("Mr. Jeep") and "Willy", Got both of 'em in 1991.

Always my daily drivers.

The Medic

Just for giggles,

Disconnect "POS" coil wire,

Connect w/ a jumper wire (alligator type if you have 'em) from "POS" Battery to "POS" Coil.

Don't worry about the ballast resistor for this test.

Give it a whirl!

(My 258 in pics below)

Results?

Measure the voltage on the ignition coil's negative terminal, then watch what it goes to when you rotate the crankshaft by hand. It should go to 0.0 volts when the points are closed, and full battery voltage when they're open. If you check for spark at the end of the coil wire, you should see a healthy spark there, and a small spark at the points, when they open up. If you don't see the spark by the points, disconnect the condenser, then try again. You can work the points by hand too instead of constantly turning the crankshaft.

On my Willys, when I got him ready to run for (my) first time.

It was a no go for hours and hours, NO SPARK!

I had assembled the point system just like they had come out!

(This may be why he was set out to pasture)

I finally noticed the bolt/ screw that held the spring steel/ brass/ the fork of the condenser was just a hair too long.

The darn thing was contacting the inside of the distributor housing and grounding the whole deal out!

Sounds like you may have something "OPEN" with your points.

Maybe use a voltmeter set to OHMs and do continuity tests. See where the points lose ground when they are closed.

One end of the point system should ground to the distributor (probably tiny rivets) Maybe they are corroded? Maybe a little "Backing Up" and a punch might make them ground again?

The other end of your points will be isolated from the distributor body with a small plastic/ or material like an electronic board.

Might wait on Doc's Opinion, another brain!

To me it (unless the points are dirty, or not fully closing) looks like you are never getting a ground signal thru the points when they close.

You can also upgrade to an electronic system at a reasonable cost. I'm showing below how I did mine. Real EZ, quickly can be reversed! The manufacturer has made them specific to bunches of different distributors, only two wires from the distributor to the coil to connect!

I hope I'm dead on with the corrosion theory!

The Medic

Don't let people make you think that an electric pump more advantageous.

IT'S NOT!

It actually will cause more problems and is more expensive.

A mechanical pump is a lot more reliable, and will put out plenty enough volume for you carb,

Before you go hog wild, see if your suction hose from the tank has a hole or split in it? Maybe the sock in the tank is stopped up? GOT GAS!

I have a 258 straight six cylinder. It now has an Offenhauser Intake and a Holley 390 4 barrel on it. My OEM pump delivers plenty of fuel to it!

What is the brand of the alternator?

Last pic is a "GM" alternator found on '76-'86 CJs, If this is what someone stuck on there, we can make it work, no need for a regulator, it's built in on these puppies.

The Medic

Looky here!

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-mechanical-fuel-pump-6505/5403863-P?navigationPath=L1*14932%7CL2*14986%7CL3*15378

Ready to stick in.

2 bolts/ 1 screw in fuel fitting/ 1 hose clamp

Pressure is correct

Will shut off when the engine stops

Will not constantly pump fuel all over you when you have that 'possible accident'

No wires to come loose.

No regulator

No fuses

Normally an "On Hand" item at a parts store.

Lifetime warranty (buy it one time)

Heck, I guess mine have lasted 7-10 years on my past (6) CJ-5s, Four of 'em were daily drivers (never had anything else since I was allowed on the asphalt in 1981)

I can only suggest from my experiences, not trying to get you all roweled up!

CARADIODOC?

Your Opinion?

When you get the alternator info, I can probably get or make you a wire diagram to suit.

The Medic

(#1, #2, #5, #6 below and part of my man cave/ guest room)

The problem with the old set of points is they never brought the voltage down to 0 volts when you turned the crankshaft. No current ever flowed through the ignition coil's primary winding, so no electromagnetic field was produced. Those contacts were either badly pitted or arced, or they were misajusted to the point they never closed to turn on. Happy to hear that is solved.

For the generator, we need to know the model you have. AMC used a lot of Ford generators that used the four-wire voltage regulator. If you have a GM unit, the voltage regulator is built in. If someone put a Chrysler alternator on it, the job gets even simpler, but you'll want to use their two-wire electronic regulator. That applies if you have two separate plug-in field terminals on the back of the alternator. The '69 and older alternators used just one field terminal. You're better off installing the '70 and newer two-terminal alternator.