Hard starting

Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 CHEVROLET
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 258,000 MILES
Okay well my truck as always fired right up however about month or so ago it started not firing right up. It would crank a little and the start so I thought maybe it was not getting enough gas so I replaced the fuel filter hoping that would help. It did not. The truck seemed to be running fine when driving down the road but when stopped or in park it was idling rough but never died. Came out of work the other morning to go home and when I tried to start it it cranked a little bit and then backfired and will not turn over at all. Please advise.
Monday, April 10th, 2017 AT 1:20 PM

26 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
Hello,

Did the engine start to run hot before this problem? It sounds like you may have a blown head gasket and one of your cylinders is now full of coolant, this is why it is not cranking over.

Can this be the problem? if not then lets test the battery

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run this test and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Best, Ken

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Wednesday, April 12th, 2017 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
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Thanks Ken for responding. The answers to your questions are No the engine did not start to run hot. And my battery is good.

Thanks
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Saturday, April 15th, 2017 AT 3:28 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Okay then we need to go over some this which are detailed in this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Look through the entire guide to see which step you should stat at.

Please let us know what happens.

Best, Ken

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Monday, April 17th, 2017 AT 2:06 PM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Ok I am really at my wits end on this. I first had a code scanner put on the truck and at that point it brought back the code for the Cam Position Sensor. So I replaced that only to have the same outcome (crank but not starting) I have never in all my years of driving and repairing my Chevy trucks have I had any issue like this. A mechanic had looked at it and told me it was the timing chain. I proceeded to putting in a new timing chain, I replaced the water pump and the thermostat since I had to pull the pump off to get to the timing chain and had never had to replace since I have owned the truck. I also put in new plugs and wires. New rotor and distributor cap/ I have replaced the crank position sensor, the coil, the ignition control module. Just about everything is new and as far as the engine cranking I can tell the difference with the new timing chain. However it still will not start. For some reason I cannot figure out for the life of me why it is not getting the spark that it needs to start. Reslly running out of time here got to start my new job this Sunday so I hope that all this will tell you all exactly what the issue is. Thanks for all your time.

Frustrated me.
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Tuesday, May 9th, 2017 AT 6:09 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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So the engine is cranking over but you are not getting spark at the plugs right?
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+1
Wednesday, May 10th, 2017 AT 2:52 PM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
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Yes that is correct.
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Sunday, May 14th, 2017 AT 3:48 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Okay, lets check to see if the system has power there are some fuses that need to be checked first, Here is a guide and some diagrams to help you find the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

You are looking for power at the injectors with the key on. This will tell us if the computer is powered up.

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken
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Tuesday, May 16th, 2017 AT 11:36 AM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Okay, so not sure what I am missing. Hoping you will shed some light. So this is concerning the truck listed above Z71 Stepside, extended cab pickup that has the 5.7 Vortec. I have pretty much rebuilt this thing. I had the spider injection go bad on me and when my mechanic said it was to be over $900.00 for him to repair I had to opt to repair it myself. So have installed a brand new spider injector and after reassembly the truck fired right up after charging the battery only ran poorly. I went ahead and replaced the plugs and wires and after a small move of the distributor I had the truck running again. I just left the truck running that day because I am trying to let the gas that did reach the oil to burn off as suggested by one of your guys. Anyway after running for quite a while the truck shut off and would not restart so I just chalked it up to I had ran it out of gas. 4 or 5 days later I finally got a ride to get more gas, which I just got $10.00 worth and put that in the truck. Well I cranked and cranked it and it would not start. So I pumped the gas pedal to the point it should have been flooded. However I couldn’t even smell gas at all so I noticed it was getting fuel and I couldn’t hear the fuel pump kicking on so I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter (which does not have the arrow and the word flow on the side of it instead it has in on one end and out on the other end) and the fuel relay. Still cranking without starting. I can hear the pump kicking on again, I have disconnected the fuel filter and gas came out of it and when I push in the pin on the relief valve some gas comes out on top of the motor. I also disconnected the ground wire and scraped and sanded the section of the frame so that it is for sure got a good connection. Really frustrated at this point and not thinking straight I guess so hoping you can direct me to what I am over looking.
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Saturday, June 22nd, 2019 AT 2:58 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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As it was running and just shut off I would check that you have spark and it's in time.
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Saturday, June 22nd, 2019 AT 7:35 PM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
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Okay, that was my next step. So is it possible that it is fouling out my plugs since I am trying to just let it run to burn off the fuel that got in the oil? And is there a way to get the gas completely out of the oil? Besides just keep changing the oil?
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Saturday, June 22nd, 2019 AT 9:38 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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I doubt it's fouled the plugs, more likely the ignition module failed. I see you replaced it earlier, I've seen a lot of the aftermarket ones burn up because they don't transfer heat out of the module very well even with the heat sink goop on them. If you have changed the oil once and then run the engine some to clear out any left behind it should be okay by now. Easy way to tell is to pull the dipstick and smell the oil, any gas in it will give off enough odor to tell you it's there.
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Sunday, June 23rd, 2019 AT 1:02 AM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Okay, it started for a second with the starting fluid and then went back to just cranking. So got frustrated again yesterday and walked away from it and went and did something else. : ) When I decided to return to it I tried to start it and it acted like it was going to start but then on second attempt went right back to just cranking. I went ahead and replaced the ignition module and coil and after installing new parts it once again acted like it was going to start but then went right back to the same problem. I do still smell gas on the dipstick when I checked it yesterday. Added a little Seafoam t the oil today.
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Wednesday, June 26th, 2019 AT 12:56 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Okay, if it tried to run on starting fluid it has spark. Check the actual fuel pressure. I have seen a lot of bad pumps straight out of the box. Also, did you replace the pump connector with the new pump? Second, check that the fuel pump relay is actually working as well as the oil pressure sender. GM uses the relay to prime the fuel system but once it has oil pressure the power feeds through the oil pressure switch to the pump. That way a loss of pressure shuts the engine off. The normal symptoms in them are, Long crank and then the engine starts, this is usually the relay or it's socket causing a lack of the first prime and the oil pressure switch has to trip on before fuel flows. The next most common is for the engine to start and then die real quick. This is a failure in the OP switch causing the power to the pump to shut off. A quick way to test for both of those is to jump battery power directly to the fuel pump prime wire. This will be a gray wire that is taped up near or in the harness near the fuse box. It feeds power directly to the pump. If you apply power and the truck runs, the oil pressure switch has failed.
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Wednesday, June 26th, 2019 AT 1:51 AM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Okay, I will check the items you have suggested. I did replace the fuel pump sending unit and I replaced the fuel relay. Are you referring to the fuse box under the hood for the grey wire? I decided to walk through the whole truck today just to make sure that there was not anything that wasn't completely connected and I noticed this cable wire hanging. One end of it is bolted to the frame by the fuel spout and the other end is not connected. Do you know what this cable wire is for and where is it suppose to be connected to? Thanks a bunch for all your assistance I greatly appreciate it.
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Thursday, June 27th, 2019 AT 1:36 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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That is the ground wire for the tank and filler, it should bolt to a clean spot on the top of the tank usually at the pump to provide a ground.
Yes the grey wire will be near the underhood fuse box.
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Thursday, June 27th, 2019 AT 2:09 AM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Hello Steve, Hope you had a great weekend. I'm so teed off I can't barely see straight. I have actually stumbled across what was causing my truck not to start and I am kicking myself for not even giving it a thought. However I have not even messed with it at all so guess that’s why I didn’t. At one point through this darn journey I had someone that knows this motor inside and out and he was going to make sure it was running. Just like everyone he talked the talk but never walked the walk when the whole time he was swapping my new parts with his old crappy parts from his 1997 Tahoe. So when I had gotten it running previously and it shut off and I thought I ran it out of gas and then thought the fuel pump had quit on me the reason that the truck had shut off when running was because the plugs that plug into the brain had vibrated loose and came unplugged and this happened because that so and so has also taken the clips that were on there to hold the plugs in. Anyway, I reconnected the plugs to the brain and secured then with tie straps for now and the truck fired right up. It is running rough so now I have to get things adjusted and get the timing right so that it will run right. Any suggestions on a easy method to set the timing?
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Monday, July 1st, 2019 AT 12:47 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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At least you found it. That isn't a trivial thing. Especially if you didn't know the PCM had been touched.

As for timing on a 1997, there isn't much to be done. You bring it to DTC, check that the rotor is in place to fire #1 and that part is done.
Then connect a scan tool once the engine is warmed up, watch the Camshaft Retard Offset. With the engine running at 1200-1300 rpm you want to see it as close to zero degrees as possible. No more than 2 degrees off in either direction. It's adjustable by lightly moving the distributor but then you will want to double check the rotor position if you move it much. Once set you're done.
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Monday, July 1st, 2019 AT 3:11 AM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Those last two words is what I am longing for. Lol When I got home tonight I removed the number 1 plug and hand crank the motor so that my marks on the crank pulley and block were lined up. Going to check the rotor tomorrow. Will let you know the outcome. Thanks again for all your assistance, its been a big help and greatly appreciated.
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Tuesday, July 2nd, 2019 AT 12:57 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Tuesday, July 2nd, 2019 AT 3:19 PM
Tiny
YOITSJUSTME
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Hello Ken,

Sorry for the big delay. Okay, so the scan tool that I have does not have the option to check the retard offset however I came across a great deal for a new distributor, rotor, and cap so I went ahead and got it. I cranked the motor to line up the marks on the block and the crankshaft pulley so that it was at TDC. I pulled out the old and installed the new only to realize I was 180 off. So I cranked it around again and reinstalled the distributor and this time when it feel into place the rotor was pointing right where it was suppose to. Tightened everything down and reinstalled all the breather parts, filter etc. Truck fired right up and actually was running and idling really good. I adjusted the distributor just a hair while the truck was running. I was finally there so went for a test drive, Went about 8 blocks up the road and it ran good and turned around and headed beck to the house and it was still running god but then all of a sudden it started loosing power and just stopped 2 houses from my house right in the middle of the street. Dead. No juice to even try and restart. Well that great helper that I told you about earlier had swapped out alternators as well so the truck was running on battery alone. So it crapped out my new battery so had to replace that along with the alternator. Installed the rebuilt alternator and put in a brand new battery. First attempt to start the truck and it sounded like it was going to fire right up, then on second attempt it acted like the brand new battery was already drained. So what do you think the issue is now?

Thanks,
Tj
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Thursday, August 22nd, 2019 AT 11:50 PM

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