Engine will not start

We should check the engine ignition for spark first and then go from there. Check at the bottom of the guide to the spark check. Can I ask if the engine is cranking over (starter working)?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Here is a guide that can help as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers, Ken

It sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor is going out which could be due to the heat of the overheating engine. When these sensors go out it may or may not leave a code this is why the dealer could not find anything.

Here is a guide to show you what you are in for when doing the job:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Here is a what it will be like on your car (below).

You may need to raise the car up safely.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/jack-up-and-lift-your-car-safely

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Hi Kristina,

Can you tell me which engine you have? Also, when you say the car won't turn on does it turn over (crank) or just click or do absolutely nothing?

This will help limit down what the issue could be. Thanks

That is great. Thank you. Just so we are seeing the same thing, it is actually starting and then dies off almost immediately? So the RPMs come up like it is going to start normally but then it just stalls out? Then after about 3 times of doing this, it starts normally?

If all of this is the case, then I am fairly confident that you have a fuel pressure issue. Most likely the fuel pump is failing. What happens is the engine starts and dies on the remaining fuel pressure that is in the system and then it takes 3 attempts to get the fuel pump to get the fuel pressure back up.

You actually have a saddle type tank so you have two fuel pumps. The main fuel pump contains the fuel pressure regulator so my guess is the main fuel pump is the issue. If you have a fuel pressure gauge you can test this theory pretty easily. Just connect it to the fuel rail and then monitor the fuel pressure when it does this and my bet is it will be pretty low if not 0 psi. As you crank it, you will see it start to build then by the third time it is high enough to start the vehicle.

This is not your ignition switch because that is an electronic switch and it either allows the start or it does not. The PCM and WIN (wireless ignition node, what you put your key into) need to have what is called a secret handshake. This is a communication that these two modules agree that it is a good key to start the vehicle and the PCM sends the commands to start the vehicle. If this fails then you would turn the key and nothing would happen or the cluster would say invalid key.

Let me know if what I asked above is correct and if you have a fuel pressure gauge. Thanks

When it doesn't start, have you been able to check fuel pump pressure and for spark to the engine?

Go to our homepage under the DIY section and you will find both directions and videos showing you how to do it. Let me know what you find.

Has anyone checked the fuel pump pressure when this happened?

I want you to try something. When the problem happens and it won't start, see if it will start for a couple seconds using starting fluid. By doing this, it will tell me if the problem is in the fuel system or the ignition system.

I had a feeling it had something to do with fuel pressure. Isn't technology wonderful?

Good morning,

That is inaccurate information. Where did you hear that? There is no fuse you can pull to make it start.

Do you have a voltmeter to do some tests for the starting system?

Check the fuses I circled for power on both sides. Let us make sure there is power to the relay.

Roy