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Engine started running rough

Tiny
CARTER SPARKS
  • MEMBER
  • 33 POSTS
The security light flashes. I have by-passed it, but the key in the ignition to on and touch two words together and start it.
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Thursday, May 17th, 2018 AT 10:32 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,627 POSTS
If it flashes then it does not recognize the key and is shutting off the ignition system. There is no way to bypass that system, you might get the engine to crank over using those wires but that does no by-pass the immobilizer system.
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Thursday, May 17th, 2018 AT 5:08 PM
Tiny
CARTER SPARKS
  • MEMBER
  • 33 POSTS
It flashes on and off like it always had.
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Wednesday, May 23rd, 2018 AT 5:30 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,627 POSTS
But does it go off after three seconds once you turn the key on? If yes than it is seeing the key as a good key and the immobilizer is not the problem. If it flashes fast when you turn the key there is a problem. If it flashes, leave the key on and wait. After one minute the light should stop flashing and then start flashing a code. Count the flashes to read the code. The light will flash then pause between numbers and codes. So it it flashes once then a short pause and flash, flash, then a long pause you would have a code 12. If it was flash, flash pause flash, flash long pause flash pause, flash that would be a code 22 and 11. See if it will give you a code.
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Wednesday, May 23rd, 2018 AT 1:01 PM
Tiny
CARTER SPARKS
  • MEMBER
  • 33 POSTS
I need some one to tell me how to reset my key or away to get it to start my truck. It will turn the on but will not start it. I know there has to be away. It used to start it but it just stopped starting it.
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Wednesday, May 30th, 2018 AT 12:09 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,627 POSTS
There is no way to reset or to program new keys unless you have a locksmith or dealer create a new key to match the VIN number of the truck or have them erase the current key(s) and reprogram the key you have back in. However, you say you "bypassed it so it would turn over, then the key stopped working" That would likely negate any programming as the process can be messy even with everything working as it should. Ford uses the Ignition switch, Instrument Cluster, Body Control Module and the Power-train Control Modules all in the security system. If any of them get or give a bad response that the security system does not like, the system stops the truck from starting, it will also stop any programming access to the PATS system.

My first step would be to put everything back to stock with no changes or bypasses. Then you may find that it returns to starting but running poorly, but that takes any of the modifications out of the way, and would allow for diagnostics on a running engine.
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Wednesday, May 30th, 2018 AT 4:21 PM
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 2002 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 53,800 MILES
2002 Ford F-150 4WD mileage: 53,800. I cannot get a spark advance. New distributor, control module, switched computers but still high gas mileage and runs rough at hill or when I give it the gas. Runs like a new engine when idling. Have timed and retimed it and so has my mechanic but no results. It will also backfire sometime when I go to shut it off. Have tried everything. It's driving me crazy.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 3:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
On the distributor is a connector that should be disconnected to set the timing. This must be reconnected after setting the timing in order to have the spark advance work properly. Check to make sure yours is making a good connection.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 3:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DPLOURDE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2002 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 205,000 MILES
I've got an F150 4.6 V8 auto that's running rough but only a small part of the time. I'm NOT getting a check engine light and the problem only seems to come around at about 45MPH and is more pronounced when going up hill at about 45MPH. Does it a little bit at highway speed but not nearly as much. Engine starts and runs fine otherwise. I had the typical coil failure problems a few months ago but that seemed different. It ran bad all the time, gave me a check engine light and a code I could read. Changed some coils and I was all set. I keep expecting the light to come on so I can read the code and change another coil but I don't think it's going to. Injectors? Fuel Pump? Any advice would be helpful.
Thanks.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 3:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,913 POSTS
I question if the fuel pump is a concern because it runs good other than that speed. As far as the coild, does your truck have one for each cylender? IF so, I have had similar problems with the actual boot that goes over the spark plug. THey actually arc through them causing spark to short to the engine and some still make it to the plug so you get a mild miss. Have you checked them? If that is the problem, you will see a light gray mark on the boot where it arcs.

If you want to check fuel puressure, here is a how to:

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

You will need a gauge to check it. Most parts stores will lend or rent the gauge.

Let me know what you find.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 3:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DPLOURDE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I've been thinking more about the rough running on the F150. I don't think it's he coils. The rough running is too predictable to be a bad coil or week boot. I'm thinking it might be a vacuum leak. I can predict exactly when the rough running will start. It happens only at 45MPH at certain power setting (going up hill) when the engine is at certain RPM. When the rough running starts, I can add more power, down shift the truck and it stops bucking. I'm thinking vac leak. Does this thing have a crank position sensor or something else that could be causing the timing to shift under certain conditions?
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+2
Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 3:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RBONECUTTER2002
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 165,000 MILES
Hello,
My 2002 F150 has been having this condition ever since I bought it used 4 months ago. Seems to be 2 separate problems but may be related. Upon buying it used it never went into any gear higher than 2nd. After 2 weeks I put a used transmission in it. Seemed to run well for 2 weeks. But now, this is the condition I am having. When driving on the hwy, it seems that when I hit a bump that the truck stalls (speedometer drops to 0 even though still moving around 45mph. Fuel cap light flashes, and theft light flashes. Engine picks back up but theft light keeps flashing. The other separate condition I seem to notice is that guages do not flutter but truck keeps jumping back down out of overdrive and kicks back in harshly when on level road and maintaining a steady speed. Do u think that since it seems to do this on bumps it could be loose wiring or computer related?
I appreciate any help you can give me as I don't want to do any unnecessary damage to drivetrain.
Thanks,
Robert
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 3:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,913 POSTS
Make sure the wiring harness to the PCM is tight. Also, you may want to try having the computer scanned. Maybe the computer has picked up on the problem and has stored it in memory. Most nationally recognized parts stores will do it for free.

Do that and let me know what you find.

Joe
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 3:33 PM (Merged)

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