Engine cranks but does not start?

Hi,

If you have spark, see if it will start for a couple of seconds using starting fluid. If it does. then we know it's fuel-related.

Next, does the engine sound normal when cranking? Is there any indication there could be a timing or compression issue? The engine needs fuel, spark, compression, and proper timing to run. One is likely missing.

If possible, record it cranking and upload it for me to hear. Also, if you want to check compression, here is a link that shows how it's done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Since the vehicle has been sitting, there is a chance the carb is gummed up inside, so make sure to try the starting fluid to see what happens.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

That isn't a stupid question at all. The carburetor cleaner should have worked. The only thing I can say is starting fluid is more volatile and will ignite easier.

Did it start with the carburetor cleaner? If you have spark, it should at least until the carb cleaner is used.

Let me know.

Joe

Sounds like a plan. However, if carburetor cleaner didn't make any difference, I recommend checking for spark. Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Let me know what you find. I'm interested in knowing. Also, hang in there. We'll get it running.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

Normally, the distributor cap won't prevent all cylinders from firing. I listened to the video you attached and there isn't so much as a burp indicating spark.

Go to the ignition coil. There will be a positive and neg on it with small wires attached. Turn the key to the run position and see if there is power to the positive side of the coil.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

I appreciate the update. As far as checking for voltage, if there is none, the coil won't work. Let me know when you have the chance to get it checked.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

If you have power to the coil and ground, the next suspect would be the ignition control module. If there is no power at the positive side of the coil with the key on, then we need to go to the starter solenoid and ignition switch to see if there is power available at the red wire with a white tracer.

I attached a schematic I got online for you. Let me know if this helps you or if you have other questions.

Let me know what you find. Also, please feel free to let me know if I can help.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Hi,

I like it. That looks like it could be a lot of fun. As far as the ignition control module, that's it.

Let me k ow if that takes care of the issue.

Joe

Hi,

When you checked for power at the coil, you had power with the key in the run position. By chance, did you check for power when the key was in the start position? The test light should be brighter when cranking. If you did try this and there was nothing when cranking,
then you have an issue with the wire between the starter relay 'I' (Ignition) terminal and the ignition coil.

Next, to check the control module do the following:

Connect the wire of your test light to the positive battery terminal.

Probe the 'Green' wire terminal at the coil
With the key in the run position, you should get a strong, steady bright light.

While cranking the engine, you should get an even blinking/flashing of the light.

If you don't get the steady light when the key switch is in the run position, there is a problem with the ignition module ground circuit.

If you don't get a flashing/blinking light when cranking the engine, any of the following can be the cause that requires further diagnostics.

No trigger signal from the distributor.
Damaged or corroded connections from distributor to module.
No power to the control module.
Faulty module which is common on these vehicles.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe

Hi,

I totally understand the idea of checking the coil. Somethings just require two people. I wish I was there to help.

However, that is where I'm questioning if spark is lost, in the start position. Under normal conditions, the ignition switch sends 12v direct to the coil in the start position to provide a hotter spark. Once in the run position, voltage is dropped to protect the ignition system. If the system had 12v at all times, it wouldn't last as long.

Did you confirm there is 12v from the solenoid to the coil? You should have it at the solenoid and to the coil when in the run position. It's the red/white wire. See pic below.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

IF you have no power from the solenoid to the coil, either the solenoid is bad, there is a wiring issue at the ignition switch, or a broken wire. When you tested, did you do it right at the solenoid? Can you get a helper to check the I terminal on the solenoid for power when the key is in the start position?

I found another schematic for one that is two years newer. It should be basically the same. When the key is in the run position, the voltage from the solenoid to the coil is reduced to prevent damaging the coil. In the start position, that terminal and coil wire should have battery voltage.

If possible, check both ignition key positions for power. Also, check right at the solenoid as well as at the coil.

Joe