Troubleshoot wiring harness 68236867AD repair?

I looked up that tool and it is pretty advanced, but it doesn't dig as deep as an OE tool will. All of the codes you listed for the sensors share the 5V ref, the sensor ground and the PCM.
None of the codes suggest replacing a sensor until you test. You say you tested and found the 5V reference. And that the sensor ground checks out. It would be very rare for multiple sensors on both cylinder banks to fail and give you circuit codes so it's doubtful they are bad. Now since each one returns the data signal to the PCM on different circuits it's unlikely that those wires are the issue. (Think about traffic into a large city, what are the chances of a wreck on one road, shutting down all the others?) So now you go to the PCM and check its grounds. It uses the 12 volts to generate it's internal references and the grounds to allow for the voltage differentials. So, a bad or loose ground at the PCM can cause strange things as well, but in this case the primary ground reference is on pin 72 of the PCM. The primary power is pin 96
Those two provide the ground and power for all of the sensors through the PCM as the engine does run, the PCM has a power and ground, or the Auto Shut Down relay. Ignition coils, fuel pump relay and starter relay couldn't operate.
The next step would be to verify that the cam signals are getting to the PCM and you might be able to see that if you can pull up the intake and exhaust cam timing numbers on that tools live data. The better way though is to use a scope to look at the digital signal from the sensors. They use a square wave that reads the reluctor wheel on the camshaft sprockets. However, as I noted it would be very rare for all of them to fail at once and for it not to show more codes. Say a timing chain broke, the engine might start and blow white smoke from unburned fuel, but I would also expect misfire codes as well as multiple others. In this case I'm suspecting the PCM has an internal problem but there isn't any good way to DIY test it beyond verifying that it has powers and grounds, and that you have active signals from the cam sensors. I have friends I send them out to for repair but most only accept them from shops. If you want to see what that involves look up Maic Salazar Diagnostics on YouTube.

I can't add anything good, but I can make some comments that may be helpful later. Steve uses the same logic as I do when there's multiple fault codes.

If you want to access an online service manual, we use AllData. Shops pay about $1000.00 per year for access to all models. You can buy access to just your one model for about $28.00 per year or $49.00 for five years, last time I checked. I can post diagrams for you too, but they purposely made copying them difficult. To get acceptable clarity, I have to expand them, then copy them in multiple pieces, and then group them together to make them readable. I do this all in MS Word, a typing program where I can add callouts and arrows. I know there's easier ways, but this lets me manipulate them later, if needed. From there I copy them into MS Paint where they can be saved in a JPEG format that can be uploaded. I did that for all of your fault code diagnostic steps until 6 a.M. This morning. By using MS Paint, I have to do them all one page at a time, so some have over 20 pages to read through.

One thing that made this easier was the procedure for diagnosing three of the codes, while 21 pages long, are almost identical. I had to read through them and just change a few numbers here and there. I'm going to post the steps for one of them for now. Since almost everything is the same, if you find the cause of this problem with the steps for one code, you'll likely solve all the other codes at the same time.

Steve alluded to something I was never taught in my TV Servicing class, but I did learn it years later. That is when it comes to a "black box", meaning a module, a computer, or an integrated circuit where you don't know what's inside, you need four things for that box to work. You gotta have all the power supplies, all the grounds, nothing is open or shorted on the outputs, then you'll get the proper outputs if the box is okay. It's common to have four 12-volt feeds to the Engine Computer. One is constant to maintain fuel trim numbers and learned sensor personalities in memory. One is switched on with the ignition switch to turn it on. The computer turns on the automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay which powers up the injectors, ignition coils, and a few other circuits including one that goes back to the computer as proof it got turned on. I don't remember where the fourth one came from.

I already described the multiple ground wires. It appears you already verified the 5-volt sensor supplies and the grounds are okay. I would have suggested the same thing Steve said about the unlikelihood of so many failed sensors, and to look for what they have in common.

One thing that didn't come up yet is problems with the TIPM, totally integrated power module, (under-hood fuse box). Most people think those cause a lot of trouble, especially from corroded connector terminals on the bottom. I have a friend with a repair / body shop who specializes in rebuilding smashed one and two-year-old Ram trucks. I get called when he has electrical problems, and since he often is the owner of these vehicles, I've had the opportunity to take some of those modules apart. One had an intermittent no-crank problem, and to learn how the system works, I took the TIPM apart. To my surprise, there were only 13 relays, a lot of fuses, but absolutely no electronics inside it. That's why you'll often hear they're "plug and play" with no programming required. It just had seven or eight layers of metal with fingers bent up to form terminals that plugged into other layers. It's easy to find these in a salvage yard. Go by application and check that the same fuses are in the same locations. The modules can have different part numbers.

My reason for bringing this up is you might consider connecting your voltmeter to these 12-volt lines, one at a time, and watch if they hold steady. If one flickers or has dropouts, try wiggling the connectors under the TIPM to see if that changes anything.

Now, to add to the misery, some TIPMs do have a small module plugged in on the driver's side. If you plug the old one into the new TIPM, it will work fine. If you install a different one, some functions do work, so you can drive the truck to the dealership, but they do have to reprogram it to that truck for everything to work.

I'm going to split these diagnostic steps up into separate replies to lessen the confusion. Here's the simplest one. It's for code P0600.

If these are too small to read, try to copy them into MS Word where it's easy to expand them.

Here's for code P0335.

Here's for code P0340. Codes 345, 365, and 390 are almost identical except for the sensor numbers and one wire. The wire referenced can be K44, K441, K444, and, as I recall, K445.

I just realized I didn't see if you had tested the crankshaft 5 volt reference? That is down on the rear of the engine, if it lacks power the system would use a default strategy. If it has proper power and ground it comes back to testing for correct signal at the PCM using a scope, or the other method of changing the sensor. FYI you also need to do the cam-crank relearn after changing the crank or camshaft sensors, I think that tool can do that.

Basic codes explanation. Codes are set when the module detects something that doesn't match the expected parameter programmed into its tables, but they don't normally point to an exact part as many people believe. As an example a circuit code means there is a perceived fault in that circuit. Say that circuit contains 4 items, what do those items share? Are there also codes pointing to one item in that circuit. Say you have a code for the ignition coils, all 6 share a power and ground, but it isn't likely that all 6 failed. However you also have a P0304 (misfire on cylinder 4) so I would check the powers and grounds first, and I discover the power feed is shorted, With the cylinder 4 misfire I'm going to that coil first, Unplug it and the power returns. Replace the coil, clear the codes and no codes return.

Code Types -
Pending code - This is something that tripped a monitor but not a hard fault and until it happens a second time in this run cycle it will not set a current code and turn on the CEL
Current code - This is a code that is a single trip code, IE it sets if the problem only happens one time, or it may be a continuous code fault.

Both of those can be cleared with a scan tool or disconnecting the battery in some cases.

Permanent code - This is also a hard fault code but it stays in the system until it is repaired and the PCM runs that test between one and five times without a fault. These were put in place because of people having a problem and clearing the codes and then showing up at the dealership and complaining the car doesn't run right, and because people would clear the codes to pass an inspection. They cannot be cleared with any form of scan tool, only the PCM can clear them. (These also act as tattle tale codes for the people who install tuners or chips to alter the vehicles performance, they also record any changes made to the PCM programming)

History codes - These are the codes the vehicle has had that have been repaired or were set and cleared on their own.
There are also an entire batch of other codes for the various systems on the vehicle.
P- Powertrain, B- Body codes, U- Communication, C- Chassis plus now that all of the vehicles are gadget laden there are subgroups under each of those.

No rush on getting it done, all of us know what it's like to find extra time.

Until it is running and can run the tests the permanent codes cannot be cleared. The PCM has to run the tests and see that the system is running correctly. Once it completes that test a few times it will then clear the code. But you can ignore the permanent codes for now. Deal with pending and current codes and repair those faults.

Using the live data you posted, the throttle pedal isn't the issue. The way it works is like many 3 wire sensors. You apply a reference voltage to one side (5 volts in this case) and a ground to the other. Then the voltage changes as the sensor moves. Sort of like a volume control. For the throttle pedal there are two connected in reverse. One voltage rises as the other falls. The PCM and throttle motors use that voltage to determine where to move the throttle blade in the throttle body.

OK looking at the reports. Go find the purge solenoid on the right-side strut tower next to the firewall and replace it or at least block the hose to it from the tank. If that valve is stuck open the truck will act like it is severely flooded. That could be the cause of it not starting.
The valve has one electrical connection (top) then two hose connections. Simply swap it with new. Now hold the throttle fully to the floor and crank the engine over a few seconds. Let up and try it, see if it starts now.

That tool looks reasonably good for a DIY level tool, without having it in my hands though I can't comment much. The manual for it is a bit lackluster but that's common. I basically use a small code reader to get a quick idea of what codes are there before I accept a job. Then I have 3 other OE level scan tools plus a couple factory tools to really dig into the systems with full bidirectional control. As an example of bidirectional control, say your van comes to my shop, and you are showing the same codes. I can go into EVAP and cycle the purge solenoid while listening to it, I don't hear it, so is it the circuit or the valve? I can then unplug it and connect a test light or my U-Scope and then use the scan tool to change the duty cycle on the control voltage to the valve. If I see the light or scope reacting the way they should, it's a bad valve, and so far, I've unplugged one connector! Same things can be done to look at the can and crank sensors as well as many other sensors.
I can find something similar in the data display on your tool but can't tell if you have the testing to do it. If you look at your images there is one that says Commanded Evaporative Purge 0%. That means it should be fully closed. I do see it shows it can do a purge test, but it doesn't say which parts it can test and most of them require a running engine to create a vacuum to do the testing.

At the dealership in the mid '90s, we had two cars come in on tow trucks in one day, both with crank / no-start conditions. On the first one, after the drivability expert beat his head against the wall for a day and a half, he bled off a sample of gas, threw it on the floor, and tossed a lit match on it. The "gas" put the match out. Found out both owners bought gas from the same station the day before. I assume my coworker drained both tanks and put good gas in. I DO know it didn't take so long to figure out the second one.