Engine wont start

Tiny
DANNYKSUPRA
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thanks man I think your right and I assume im not supposed to hear the fuel pump when the car is running. Well then I think I should invest in the feul system. Once agian thanks
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
I assume im not supposed to hear the fuel pump when the car is running-Dude, You better hear the pump when the engine is running. What? Its getting into you-relax and concentrate
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNYKSUPRA
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Sorry. I just get too excited and overdo it. But yeah I understand what your saying.
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BUZZSAW
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,198 POSTS
The regulator is where I would start, to see if its holding psi run it let it sit for a while then crack the cold start injector nut
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JUSTDON
  • MEMBER
  • 150 POSTS
  • 1985 TOYOTA SUPRA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
Car was driving fine until all of a sudden, it appeared to slow down. It then stalled and now it will crank but not start. While cranking, the engine seems to want to start but it doesn't. After cranking, there is a strong fuel odor. Changed spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Same thing. Pulled a plug wire and grounded it and seen a slow yellowish spark. There seems to be a longer than expected pause between sparks. Toyota says it's the igniter with a very hefty price tag. Looking for the 2carpros opinion. Please let me know what to check and how to check it to find the problem.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Could be that your injector/s are leaking and dropping the pressure.

Learn something about fuel pressure how important it is in the fuel system. By the time you finish reading below you'll be an expert in the field of fuel pressure.

BTW about FPR you can nail it by disconnecting the vac. Hose to it -you see gas the FPR is gone plain and simple. If its not leaking this is where you can also nail it by disconnecting/connecting the vacuum hose and observing the change of pressure-when you remove the vac hose the pressure should increase no increase, pinch the return line if it increase the FPR is gone again-no increase the pump.

Good Luck

Measuring Fuel Pump Pressure:
Depending on the application, the fuel system may require anywhere from 30 to 80 psi of fuel pressure to start and run. Pressure specifications will vary according to the type of fuel injection system on the engine as well as the performance, fuel economy and emission requirements of that particular model year vehicle. There are no rules of thumb. Every application is different, so always look up the pressure specs when troubleshooting fuel-related performance problems.

When there is too much fuel pressure, the engine runs rich. This causes an increase in fuel consumption and carbon monoxide (CO) emissions. An engine thatà   s running really rich also may experience a rough idle, surging and possibly even carbon-fouled spark plugs.

When there is not enough fuel pressure, the engine may not start. Or if it does, it may idle roughly and run poorly. Low fuel pressure creates a lean fuel condition that can cause lean misfire, hesitation, rough idle, hesitation and misfire on acceleration.

To check fuel pressure, you need a gauge and a place to attach it. There are a number of different checks that can be made, including static or rest pressure (key on, engine off), residual fuel pressure, running pressure, maximum or "dead head" pressure and volume of fuel delivered. The fuel pressure regulator also should be tested, and a fuel pressure drop test performed to check for dirty fuel injectors.

Different vehicle manufacturers recommend different test procedures. On many European EFI systems, the OEMs recommend using a static pressure test with the engine and ignition off. This is done by bypassing the fuel pump relay and energizing the pump directly. Most domestic and Asian vehicle manufacturers, on the other hand, provide a test fitting on the fuel rail so pressure can be checked with the engine running.

If you are working on a vehicle that does not have a pressure test fitting, you will have to tee a pressure gauge into the fuel line just ahead of the injector fuel rail.

Caution: Before hooking up your pressure gauge, relieve all pressure in the fuel system.

Static Fuel Pressure Test
With the key on, engine off (or with the fuel pump energized), fuel pressure should come up quickly and hold steady at a fixed value. Compare the pressure reading to specifications. If you get no pressure reading, check for voltage at the pump. If there is voltage but the pump is not running, you have found the problem: a bad fuel pump.

If you do get a pressure reading but the reading is lower than normal, the cause may be a weak pump, a blockage in the fuel line, filter or tank inlet sock, or a faulty pressure regulator. Also, low voltage at the pump may prevent it from spinning fast enough to build up normal pressure. Check the voltage at the pump. If OK, check the fuel filter and lines for obstructions and the operation of the fuel pressure regulator before you condemn the pump.

Residual Fuel Pressure Test
When the pump is turned off or stops running, the system should hold residual pressure for several minutes (look up the specs to see how much pressure drop is allowed over a given period of time). If pressure drops quickly, the vehicle may have a leaky fuel line, a leaky fuel pump check valve, a leaky fuel pressure regulator or one or more leaky fuel injectors. Low residual fuel pressure can cause hard starting and vapor lock during hot weather.

Running Fuel Pressure Test
With the engine idling, compare the gauge reading to specifications. Fuel pressure should be within the acceptable range given by the vehicle manufacturer. If low, the problem may be a weak pump, low voltage to the pump, a clogged fuel filter, line or inlet sock inside the fuel tank, a bad pressure regulator, or nearly empty fuel tank.

Dead Head Pressure
This checks the maximum output pressure of the fuel pump. With the return line pinched shut, the pump should produce two times its normal operating pressure at idle. If the pressure rating does not go up with the return line blocked, the pump may not be able to deliver enough fuel at higher engine speeds. Possible causes include a worn pump, low voltage at the pump, a plugged fuel filter or inlet sock in the tank, an obstructed fuel line or almost empty fuel tank.
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+1
Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Hi justdon, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Check and test the ignition coil primary and secondary winding resistances and distributor pick-up coil-if both okay and wiring think! Ignitor
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BUZZSAW
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,198 POSTS
To check fuel psi the cold start injector is where you do your testing at, toyota fuel psi runs at 40 give or take a few, when your at home and have no tools to mesure this or someone who has some mechanical abilty that wants to attempt this at home with no tools, not everyone has 75k in a tool set, so the manuel doesnt do you a good job, improvising on what you read is a must. So get a dictionary and we can both figure it out.
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
If you are working on a vehicle that does not have a pressure test fitting, you will have to tee a pressure gauge into the fuel line just ahead of the injector fuel rail.

The cold start injector does not have a fuel pressure tap port-it looks like the regular injector/s. You check the fuel pressure at the rail or tee-in on the line.

The cold start injector is like the choke assy on Carbs provide the inital cold enrichment and use for a few secs-the de-energizes.
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
You need to follow Buzzsaw earlier suggestion on testing all toyota's fuel pressure on the cold start injector.
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RICHARD TOMASCIK
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1983 TOYOTA SUPRA
  • 2.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 10 MILES
Just rebuilt engine after sitting for a year. New fuel pump and filter, oil pump, lifters etc. Car ran great but the machine shop didn't surface cam tower so it started leaking oil. I removed timing belt and everything necessary to remove tower. I surfaced and replaced tower. Now it will not start. It has power and ground to injectors but no pulse. I have replaced relays and checked all fuses. Continuity test on fi wires all the way to the ECU. Still have not found problem.
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,650 POSTS
Hello,

Sorry for the slow response been busy over the holidays. can I ask if you have all power and ground wires connected? Also does the engine sound okay when cranking over? With the key on can you test for power at the ignition coil? here is a guide to help you see if it has power on either pole:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Please run down these guides and report back.

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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RICHARD TOMASCIK
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Dude I know how to use a test light. I have done all of those things. Did I mention I am a mechanic of 32 + years.
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,650 POSTS
It sounds like the ignition module is out. Can I ask when you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds? Also do you have spark?
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RICHARD TOMASCIK
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Yeah thanks I found the issue.
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,650 POSTS
What was the problem can I ask?
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RICHARD TOMASCIK
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
The timing gear alignment pin was off 1 position on exhaust cam so the gear looked correct from front but when you remove the valve cover the camshaft has an alignment hole with the tower was off tdc.
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,650 POSTS
Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PNUBTHEGREAT
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1986 TOYOTA SUPRA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 170,244 MILES
I just purchased a 1986 supra from someone, the car started fine when I test drove it, there was a slight knocking that previous owner told me about. I got the car home, turned it off, then restarted. It started up after a slight hesitation. I parked the vehicle in my drive way, turned it off, then after a few minutes I tried to start it again. The started wasnt even turning over, all the guages and lights are working, so I know it is not an electrical problem. The had been sitting for a while in a garage before I got it. Any ideas?
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Check for 12V at starter solenoid white with key on crank, if no power check starter relay. Check starter motor cable tight, if 12 V at solenoid & 12V at main starter cable o/haul starter.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)

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