Starts then stalls

Has anyone checked for the codes in the computer?
IF so, what are they?

Checklist to do:

1.Air tube from MAF to throttle body is sealed properly

2.Take the IACV out and clean it good make sure there's no residue.

3. Find the EGR open it up look for carbon at pintle and passages thru the manifold.

4.Inspect the throttle shaft/plate and linkages makes sure there's no binding

**5. Mark the throttle position sensor position with the throttle body

Put everything back together, find the diagnostic check connector jump TE-1 to E-1 now start vehicle up.

Now observe what the engine is doing and comeback and tell me -am not done the old lady is not coming.

The idle air control valve clicks after I turn the engine off-

I've been with toys for a long long time when toyota is toyopet I've never /ever heard the IACV click.

**5 we'll do this last.

Still the car idles low at times and will stall out at hard stops. SW there's a catch to this.

Good luck

What's your hunch Jess? Plugged passageways on the EGR?

Yup, This one can be a tricky though-could be too much air or not enough gas. To nail it, is by the use of the 5gas and propane.

I'm waiting for the results on my checklist.

Not the air snorkel. The passegways the provide air flow to and from the EGR valve.

The MAF appears that is took care of the codes, since they are not there.

Hi camel64, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Inspect and test the airflow meter and throttle position sensor also check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure tester designed for your fuel system.

Nothing is being mentioned about the PCV valve-if its stuck in the intermediate position it will cause the problem-Just because you pull it and it has vacuum, sucked your thumb-that is okay-wrong! BTDT

Paul I find myself breaking out my old 22 years old notes in school and my Emission I/M shotgun book/notes.

Can you send me a round trip ticket plus hotel and a lot of them american beers. I'll go knock this thing out. So much of incompetent ASE technicians that should be retrained as partschangers.

Check the fuel pressure with and w/o the fuel pressure regulator, w/o the pressure should increase 8-10psi also check ignition timing

I would start by replacing the dist cap and rotor and make sure inside the distributor is clean. Let us know if you need more help

Was there oil inside he distributor housing? Possible coil break down. The parts store or tool store sells a coil output tester that tests the output of the coil. Thats another direction to look.

Check the fuel pressure could be a clogged-up fuel filter or fuel pump failing due to low fuel level-Be advised the fuel pump is suppose to be submerge in fuel it probably burned-up nothing to cool it down

Pull the DTC/s from the computer by jumpering the Te-1 to E-1 in the check connector and comeback with it-also might want to check and monitor the fuel pressure when it acts up-check the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor.