starts then stalls

Has anyone checked for the codes in the computer?
IF so, what are they?

The only problem that registered a code was the Mass Air Flow. No codes since then but replacing the MAF didn't improve the problem at all.

Checklist to do: 1.Air tube from MAF to throttle body is sealed properly 2.Take the IACV out and clean it good make sure there's no residue. 3. Find the EGR open it up look for carbon at pintle and passages thru the manifold. 4.Inspect the throttle shaft/plate and linkages makes sure there's no binding **5. Mark the throttle position sensor position with the throttle body Put everything back together, find the diagnostic check connector jump TE-1 to E-1 now start vehicle up. Now observe what the engine is doing and comeback and tell me -am not done the old lady is not coming. The idle air control valve clicks after I turn the engine off- I've been with toys for a long long time when toyota is toyopet I've never /ever heard the IACV click. **5 we'll do this last. Still the car idles low at times and will stall out at hard stops. SW there's a catch to this. Good luck

What's your hunch Jess? Plugged passageways on the EGR?

[quote:772b707967="Service Writer"]What's your hunch Jess? Plugged passageways on the EGR?[/quote:772b707967]

Yup, This one can be a tricky though-could be too much air or not enough gas. To nail it, is by the use of the 5gas and propane.

I'm waiting for the results on my checklist.

The passage from the air filter to the MAF was replaced 2 years ago because it had a crack in it - this one is brand new and still in very good shape.

I cleaned out the throttle body, and related parts.

The EGR and EGR vacuum modulator were just replaced with Denso parts, so they are clean

I also checked the ignition coil and igniter and everything was fine.

I checked the Power brake booster for vacuum leaks, none evident.

The mass air flow is a Cardone remanufactured part. I hear there may be a difference in quality between Cardone and Toyota, but I can't afford the $700 for a Toyota MAF. The car still stalls at hard stops - could it be that the spring attached to the MAF isn't tight enough and therefore isn't closing quickly enough when I come to a hard stop?

hello, first time for me to visit your website.
i'm trying to get help figuring out why my camry starts but does not rev up on demand; engine will hesitate if accelerated, but accelerates fine pat 20,000 rpm. replaced gas pump and filter, replaced press. reg., replaced spark plgs,cables ,cap, elect. points and coil. please help.

Not the air snorkel...The passegways the provide air flow to and from the EGR valve.


The MAF appears that is took care of the codes, since they are not there.

Hi camel64, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Inspect and test the airflow meter and throttle position sensor also check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure tester designed for your fuel system.

[quote:c08fa292ed="Service Writer"]Not the air snorkel...The passegways the provide air flow to and from the EGR valve.


The MAF appears that is took care of the codes, since they are not there.[/quote:c08fa292ed]

Nothing is being mentioned about the PCV valve-if its stuck in the intermediate position it will cause the problem-Just because you pull it and it has vacuum, sucked your thumb-that is okay-wrong! BTDT

Paul I find myself breaking out my old 22 years old notes in school and my Emission I/M shotgun book/notes.

Can you send me a round trip ticket plus hotel and a lot of them american beers. I'll go knock this thing out. So much of incompetent ASE technicians that should be retrained as partschangers.

on my original question i mentioned that the engine on my camry model 1990 the engine will not rev up on demand; the fuel pump, filter, and regulator were replaced but problem persist. the throtle sensor measures within specs and so does the air meter; no air leaks are present and it idles steady at 850 rpm. when accelerating it will not respond smoothly, it will catch up sort of lagging behind. if i'm at rest it will slowly peed up, on gear and on neutral. no unusual noise from tranny??? injectors check out ok. no problems starting up. no afterburn.???

Check the fuel pressure with and w/o the fuel pressure regulator, w/o the pressure should increase 8-10psi also check ignition timing

When wet or humid the following conditions happen. Car starts fine. Drive 10 minutes and hard to accelerate. Car seems to want to stall if I give too much gas. I compare it to a flooded carberator or vapor lock, but of course this car is fuel injected. Then after another 15 minutes of driving, car is fine.
Dry gas,no help, fuel filter changed. engine compartment doesn't seem wet.

i would start by replacing the dist cap and rotor and make sure inside the distributor is clean. let us know if you need more help

[quote:d453f1edc9="mastertechtim"]i would start by replacing the dist cap and rotor and make sure inside the distributor is clean. let us know if you need more help[/quote:d453f1edc9]

Had already done that, and wires,plugs,air filter. Didn't see any lose electric wires. No holes in any vacumm lines.
Timing belt was replaced when I first got the car @ 90k miles.

was there oil inside he distributor housing? possible coil break down. the parts store or tool store sells a coil output tester that tests the output of the coil. thats another direction to look.

Last night i was driving my Toyota Camry. All of a sudden my check engine light came on, engine shuts off, and my car started cruising. I hit my brakes, tried to restart my car but it only make this unusual, high pitch, very fast, but rhythmic sound as if it wants to start but can't.
What could that be?

The day of the incident I have been driving my car with the indicator on "E" for about a day during work. After work I put a half-tank of gasoline in my car an hour before the incident. Lately I have been driving my car on empty for a day or two before i put gas in it.

Check the fuel pressure could be a clogged-up fuel filter or fuel pump failing due to low fuel level-Be advised the fuel pump is suppose to be submerge in fuel it probably burned-up nothing to cool it down

About a year ago took the car on a 4 hour trip about halfway down I went to get off the highway and when I got to the top of a pretty short off ramp and came to a stop the car shut off and the check enginge light came on. Restarted the engine the check engine light went off and the car worked fine. On the way back (after getting a tank of gas from a mom and pop gas station) the car shuttered worse than usual and throughout that whole tank of gas and a little ways into the next one the car just felt off. Shutting down when I stopped sometimes and just shuttering badly. After that tank of gas the shuttering stopped and the shutting off went down to a "once in a while when I come to a shreaking halt" thing. Is this a problem with the transmission that I need to get looked at or is it just an old car?

Pull the DTC/s from the computer by jumpering the Te-1 to E-1 in the check connector and comeback with it-also might want to check and monitor the fuel pressure when it acts up-check the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor.

the car died then i replaced the distributer and in ran for a few seconds and stalled it will start again but doas the same when i start it and give it gas it sounds like its starved for gas and stalls again i checked the filter and it is fine while i had it off i turned the key and i am getting fuel through the line

Have someone starting the engine and someone else spraying starting fluid in the intake tube in short repetitive bursts in attempt to keep engine running. Don't press the accelerator during this test. If it runs then the issue is fuel related. If it doesn't then is something else.
Check for good consistent spark from the spark wire. Put a long screw driver in the spark plug wire boot (be gentle) and lay the screw driver really close metal on the engine. Take care as you can get shocked when doing this so don't touch anything on the car with any part of your body on the vehicle. Wearing gloves will help.

I figured it out the battery was dis conected so the computer was reset I didnt have the air duct on so it couldnt read the maf sencer so the computer wasnt giving the engine any fuel once I conected the duct it ran just fine

Awesome! Good to hear. Thanks for the question

1990 Toyota Camry 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic
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I have a 1990 Toyota Camry V6. The car dies when I acclerate from a stop light and sometimes when I'm still driving. I am scared to take the car out because someone might hit me from behind when the car dies. I don't know what's wrong with the car. We recently replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, distributer cap, and did an oil change. Sometimes when we start the car up it dies right away. If you step on the gas for a while, the car will idle and it will run. However if you don't then the engine will just run and die right away. Any suggestions on what it might be that's causing this problem?

it sounds like your idle air control valve is not working. this valve opens and allows air into intake to maintain idle. when its cold it opens more because the car needs more gas and air to run. when the car is warm and you are at idle the valve is closed.(that is your base idle). when driving and letting off gas the idle air control valve partially opens to compensate for the various driving conditions. by stepping on gas pedal at idle you are eliminating the valve.

Engine Performance problem
1990 Toyota Camry Automatic
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why does my engine die some time after i start using the car. this usually happens after not using the car for more than 8 hours. i can start the car just fine but when i begin driving, the problem starts. usually, this happens when i step on the gas after the light turns green (mostly in an intersection) or every time when i come to a stop sign.

sometimes, the engine will not really die but will be like it's gasping for gas. what i do is i pump the accelerator or step on it really hard. after 15 - 20 mins. or so of driving, the car runs fine. i know that the is some leak in the engine as i can see it on the pavement where i parked my car.

the car was just given to me by my uncle and i have no idea about the history of the car. all i know is that he bought this brand new then.

Purchase a vacuum guage and connect it to manifold vacuum. Run the engine at idle and note the guages operation. Step the speed up to 2500 RPM and note the opeartion again. Please relay back, in detail, all information.