Starts then stalls

Tiny
HAMMERJJ
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Rasmatz

Thankd for all your help. Wish I could afford a new vehicle but. Pulled up the carpet around the console and found the ECM on a small platform bolted to the tunnel. Replaced same with a used ECM and now no start. Going to pull a plug this evening to verify that I have a spark.

Perhaps the ECM is shot but less crank and camshaft position sensors most everything is new less wiring harness.

Am I overlooking something simple?

JJ
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Could be a bad converter as well. It could be totally clogged causing this issue

Roy
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GREENCHEVYMALIBU
  • MEMBER
  • 230 POSTS
Why am I not getting fuel to cylinders 1 and 4?
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HUNTERBARGER
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1990 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 118 MILES
My car hasn't been driven in nearly a month and when I tried to crank it yesterday the battery was dead so I had to jump it off I didn't drive it much to allow the battery to charge and this morning when I had to jump it off again. It crunk no problem, I drove it about 2 miles up the road to a gas station and I left the car running while I went in to prevent the battery from going dead when I came back and got in it and put it in reverse, it went dead. It crunk back up but went dead again when I put it in gear. Then after that it would just turn over but not crank. I left the car there while I went to work and when I came back I jumped it off and it crunk, but it died again when I put it in reverse. Then it would only turn over but wouldn't start up A guy who was leaving the store said it sounded like it was something about the starter, I cant remeber exactly what he said but it wasnt the starter itself. Any idea what the problem is?
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Starter would not make it stall.

First, get the battery and alternator tested. They are the first in your series of checks.

Roy
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HUNTERBARGER
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Alternator was replaced about 2 months ago. And the battery is less than a year old as well, any other idea of what it mite be? The guy who said it was something to do with the starter was a mechanic who was getting off work, he said it sounded like something to do with the starter wasnt firing. He said it was about 50 to fix. I just cant remember exactly what he said it was.
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Still need to have the battery and alt tested no matter how old it is.

Does the starter turn over the motor or click

Roy
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HUNTERBARGER
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I hooked some jumper cables to the battery when I tried to start it. The first time it started, but after it went dead when I put in in gear, I tried starting it again but it would only turn over and not start. Then it would only click after I tried starting it for a while.
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Ok, start with basic checks. Fuel pressure, compression and spark.

Roy
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JBOWE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1990 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 24,000 MILES
Sometimes when driving over a bump or railroad track the light will substain momentarily, but then stays on continuously while driving and also parked with ignition off all night.
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,990 POSTS
Sounds like a door switch/latch problem.
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
The dead battery has resulted in the engine computer losings its memory and this is affecting the idle control causing the stalling.

Repeated cranking with a half-charged battery can cause the starter to fail to work. I would sugggest getting the battery fully charged, which requires quite some charging time if it is the non-maintenance type and has been drained.

The computer needs to relearn after power is restored and it takes some time too and with the battery charge in poor condition, it would be more difficult to get it to run correctly. Cleaning the throttle body and IAC would help speed up things.
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JBOWE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Even though we removed two door switches it still stays on. Do we need to remove all 4?
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,990 POSTS
Hard to say. What do you mean by door light?
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Did you check the hood switch?
TRy disconnecting the other 2 switches to see if probem goes away.

There sulc be a short in the switch wirings causing the light to be on all the time.
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBERT LAMARCHE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1990 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 20,000 MILES
Replaces spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter. After starting even lightly taping on acceloerator vehicle stalls
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
What do you have for fuel pressure
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBERT LAMARCHE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Is testing for fuel pressure the next step? I am not a tech. That is obvious since I am asking these questions. I have no experience testing for fuel pressure. I was hoping replacing a simple sensor or switch would solve this problem. What is the process for testing fuel pressure?
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
This the page that shows how to check fuel pump and fuel pressure

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

as if it a sensor or switch need to check for codes
this is one way of RETRIEVING TROUBLE CODES

CAUTION:DO NOT enter self-diagnostic system until all basic engine checks (engine, fuel and spark) have been performed.

Verify CHECK ENGINE light circuit is operational.
Ensure battery voltage is above 11 volts and charging system is okay.
Engine must be at normal operating temperature.
Transmission/transaxle must be in Neutral or Park. Air conditioner and other accessories must be off.
Throttle valve must be closed (throttle position idle contacts closed).
Turn ignition switch to ON position with engine off.
Place jumper wire across "TE1" (or "T") and "E1" terminals in engine check connector. See Fig. below.

Count number of flashes from CHECK ENGINE light.
If system is operating properly (with no codes), CHECK ENGINE light will blink continuously and evenly.

NOTE:If CHECK ENGINE light stays on and will not blink codes, verify battery voltage is present at "TE1" (or "T") with key on and engine off. Ensure "E1" has continuity to ground or self-diagnostics will not work. If ground ("E1") is open, jumper "TE1" (or "T") to battery ground.

A trouble code will be identified by a .5 second flash on and off for the first number. A 1.5 second pause will occur followed by the second number.
If more than one code is stored, a 2.5 second pause will occur before second code is flashed. Once all codes have been displayed, a 4.5 second pause will occur and code(s) will repeat.
Trouble codes are given from smallest number code to largest number code. After codes are retrieved, remove jumper wire to exit diagnostic mode.
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
95RODEOJMU
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 1990 TOYOTA CAMRY
I have a 1989 Toyota Camry LE V6 with 96,000 miles. It is an automatic. I left it sitting for approximately 2 weeks and when I went to drive it, it wouldn't accelerate over about 15 mph, the idle was low and rough, and I had to have it towed. The mechanic couldn't replicate the acceleration problem, but replaced the battery, coolant temp sensor, spark plugs, distributor rotor, and fuel filter to treat the low, rough idle. Still, the idle was low and rough and they couldn't do any more to fix it and asked me to come pick it up.

Since then, I've been to two other mechanics, including a dealership, and had the following:

throttle body cleaned
mass air flow sensor replaced
EGR valve replace
EGR vacuum modulator replaced,
cold start injector replaced.

Still the car idles low at times and will stall out at hard stops. If I stop gently, the RPM's may decrease but probably won't stall. It accelerates okay, but seems to lack a little power. The idle air control valve clicks after I turn the engine off, which is apparently a sign that it is working correctly. What else should I be looking at? Ignition Coil? Fuel Pressure regulator? Alternator? ECU? I can't afford to keep throwing good money after bad to fix this... please help.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/53450_DSCN1057_1.jpg

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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)

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