Timing belt replacement

Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

If the belt was changed you have no problems, there will be no issue with extending the life of the belt, but if it fails that is when you get the problems, you will do serious damage to the engine, that is why they have a life and the belts should be changed as this is well with in the expected fail time of the belt,

Mark (mhpautos)
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Monday, January 11th, 2021 AT 5:27 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STONETRAMP
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank for this input, I do appreciate it!
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Monday, January 11th, 2021 AT 5:27 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GISLOC2007
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 213,000 MILES
We did a timing belt on my 92 accord and when we started her up she was idling really rough. If you tap the gas its a little better but she will make a noise as if she was backfiring under the hood
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Monday, January 11th, 2021 AT 5:27 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAN1107
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Make sure timing marks are all dead on and that engine was at top dead center, (putting a screwdriver in a spark plug hole to watch piston movement works great). If you removed the plugs and wires make sure that the firing order is correct, (plug wires on right plugs). Then Double check that the wires are on the right plugs. It gets messed up more often then you'd think. Also check that the plug wires are seated on each end and check for spark at each plug. Hope this helps. Good luck.
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Monday, January 11th, 2021 AT 5:27 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SHESPORCELIN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1991 HONDA ACCORD
1991 Honda Accord 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual

I am changing my timing belt. I placed my 1 piston at TDC, I took the top timing cover off and the top sroket showed the up positin still needed a quarter turn or a little less. Can I still turn itbefore takig off the bottomtiming cover and crank shaft?
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Monday, January 11th, 2021 AT 5:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROB2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 258 POSTS
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Turn the engine to align the timing marks and set cylinder No. 1 to TDC on the compression stroke. Once in this position, the engine must NOT be turned or disturbed.
3. Drain the engine coolant. Use a clean container and cap it when full. Wipe up spillage immediately.
4. Support the engine with a floor jack on the oil pan (use a cushion between the jack and pan). Tension the jack so that it is just supporting the engine but not lifting it.

Click image to see an enlarged viewFig. 7: Timing belt and components used on DOHC Prelude engines
Click image to see an enlarged viewFig. 8: Timing belt and components used on SOHC Prelude engines

5. Remove the side engine support bolts and nuts, then remove the side mount. Remove the cruise control actuator if so equipped; move the actuator out of the way without disconnecting or kinking the cable.
6. Remove the splash shield from below the engine.

Click image to see an enlarged viewFig. 9: Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth, then tighten the adjuster bolt to the specified torque

7. Loosen the adjusting nut for the power steering belt and remove the belt. Remove the adjusting pulley and the power steering pump. Move the pump out of the way with the hoses attached.
8. Disconnect the wiring at the alternator. Remove the alternator through-bolt; remove the mounting and adjusting bolts and remove the alternator and belt.
9. On cars with air conditioning, remove the compressor mounting bolts. Remove the compressor and belt. Do not disconnect the lines from the compressor. Position the compressor out of the way and support it with stiff wire.
10. On fuel injected vehicles, remove the ignition wires from the valve cover and remove the harness protector from the cylinder head.
11. Remove the valve cover.
12. Unfasten the crankshaft bolt and remove the crankshaft pulley.

This bolt is one of the tightest on the entire car. The pulley must be held in place while the bolt is loosened. One trick is to wrap an old drive belt around the pulley to hold it steady-don't try this with a belt that is to go back on the car; it will be stretched or damaged.

13. Remove the timing belt covers.
14. Loosen, but do not remove, the adjusting bolt on the timing belt tensioner. Move the tensioner off the belt and retighten the bolt.
15. Use a piece of chalk or a marker to place an identifying arrow on the timing belt. The arrow can identify the direction of rotation or the outer edge of the belt. The belt must be reinstalled so it moves in the same direction. Carefully remove the belt from the pulleys without crimping it. Protect the belt from oil, coolant, etc. It's an even better idea to replace the belt at this point.

To install:

16. Double check the engine position; it must be at TDC for No. 1 cylinder. All of the following conditions must be met: The timing pointer is aligned with the white mark on the flywheel or flexplate, the UP mark on each camshaft pulley is at the top and the alignment marks on each cam pulley are aligned with the edges of the cylinder head.

On fuel injected engines, each of the camshafts may be held in the TDC position by inserting 5mm diameter punches into the alignment holes just behind each cam pulley.

17. If using the same timing belt, install it so that it rotates in the same direction as before. Remove the punches holding the cams if they were installed.
18. Loosen the tensioner adjusting bolt, and allow it to apply pressure to the belt.
19. Reinstall the lower belt cover.
20. Reinstall the crankshaft pulley and key. Coat the threads of the bolt with light oil, but do not lubricate the face of the bolt which contacts the washer. On fuel injected engines, tighten the bolt to 108 ft. Lbs. (150 Nm); on carbureted engines, tighten the bolt to 83 ft. Lbs. (115 Nm).

The chamfered side of the washer faces the bolt. Tightening of the bolt is best accomplished with the wheels blocked, the parking brake applied and the transmission in gear (manual) or in Park (automatic).

21. Loosen the timing belt adjuster bolt. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth to create tension on the belt. Tighten the adjuster bolt to 31 ft. Lbs. (43 Nm).
22. Install the valve cover and the upper belt covers. On fuel injected vehicles, reinstall the ignition wires and the harness protector.
23. Reinstall the A/C compressor and belt. Tighten the mounting bolts to 18 ft. Lbs. (25 Nm).
24. Reinstall the alternator and belt.
25. Install the power steering pump and belt, tightening the bolts to 20 ft. Lbs. (27 Nm).
26. Adjust the accessory belt tensions.
27. Install the side engine mount and the cruise control actuator if it was removed. Tighten the engine mount bolts to 29 ft. Lbs. (40 Nm) and the nuts to 47 ft. Lbs. (65 Nm).
28. Refill the engine coolant.
29. Connect the negative battery cable.
30. Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Check the work area carefully for any sign of fluid leakage or any indication of the belt rubbing or slapping the covers. Bleed the cooling system.
31. Shut the engine off. Reinstall the splash shield.

-Rob
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Monday, January 11th, 2021 AT 5:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LIZ O'DONNELL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1988 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 67,592 MILES
Hi, Guys,

I have a 1988 Honda Accord. I did not know I needed to get the timing belt changed at 60,000 miles until I was poking around on the net today and discovered that information. This past Sunday I was going to go somewhere, and well let's just say I did not get very far at all.

I am worried because the material I read on the Net indicates that I may have a reall serious problem here. I am wondering if you can give me an idea of the possible outcome of the blown belt and what I might be in for price wise. I would at least like to know the average fee for a repair like this.
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Monday, January 11th, 2021 AT 5:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

Thank you for the donation,

Unfortunately this is an interference engine and serious damage can happen when a timing belt brakes, at best you can expect bent valves in the head at worst cracked pistons, as for cost, you will really need to have the head off to see how much damage you have but I would estimate a starting price around 1K would not be unrealistic.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Monday, January 11th, 2021 AT 5:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KOWBOY010
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1985 HONDA ACCORD
Engine Mechanical problem
1985 Honda Accord 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

can you get me instructions on how to change the timing belt
our car has 300 thousand killometers I understand when the timing belt goes the engin in history
thank you
Dale
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Monday, January 11th, 2021 AT 5:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
Your going to want this


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_1tb_1.jpg

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+1
Monday, January 11th, 2021 AT 5:28 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CUTECAT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • HONDA ACCORD
I'm trying to estimate whether its worthwhile repairing the car or just selling it. I have received 4 quotations to change the timing belt and the water pump. (1) $700-750, (2) 650 - 700, (3) less than $300 and (4) less than $300. All include changing the timing belt, oil seals and water pump. I don't understand why the price range is so different! The last mechanic said that its better to use an American made timing belt instead of the Honda timing belt, since the former is of better quality. He also said that it doesn't matter which water pump to use, but that he could get a Honda water pump for $20 more. Finally, he said that the the two belt tensioners would cost $45 each (labor and part), but that it is only necessary to change it at 150,000 miles. Also, to replace the transmission, front cross member and ceterbeam he gave me an estimate of $1,200. Other estimates from other mechanics are from $1,000 to $1,800. I'm so confused! I'm only just giving myself a crash course on cars. Please help!
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Monday, January 11th, 2021 AT 5:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
I don't understand it either. I do believe the lower quotes are out of whack for sure.

Assuming you have a/c, p/s and Cruise, the labor is 4.2 hours. At say $70/an hour that is $ 294 without parts or tax.

Extra time for tensioner replacement is another.4 or $28, I would guess parts are another $350 at the shop rate. Thats about $650 + tax.

I am not sold on the honda belt being inferior, just the opposite IMHO. Get a new pump, aftermarket is typically fine. I do not feel too secure with the last opinion.

Centerbeam.I have no idea.

Putting $2000 into this car is not a bad deal in my opinion. The hondas go the distance.
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Monday, January 11th, 2021 AT 5:29 PM (Merged)

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