Engine shut off while driving and will not start

Check your plug wires and egr first. Also look for a vacuum leak

Hello, I'm Danny.

I would suggest to retest the fuel pressure.It's possible you may have bought a defective fuel pump.If you don't have access to a fuel pressure tester your local auto parts store have a tool loaner program and can rent you one.Here is a tutorial showing how to test:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Your car specification shows the pressure to be 41-47 p.s.i. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
Danny-

Take it to any autoparts store and have the charging system tsted for free, this includes battery, alt, alt. Ripple, alt. Amp output and starter draw.

Check all battery connections and make sure they are clean and tight.

Other possibilities are ign. Switch.

Does it short out or just shut off? All the lights will come on if the engine shuts off. Perhaps the vehicle is not running very well and the rpm is too low when you put it in reverse. Have it checked out at shop to see.

Sounds like you need to clean and tighten the battery cables. GM's side post design is not very friendly or easy to get high current through so they have to be maintained. Also, due to the generator design, they develop huge voltage spikes that can destroy its internal diodes and voltage regulator and they can interfere with computer sensor signals. The battery is the key component in dampening and absorbing those spikes. With a poor connection, those voltage spikes could be confusing the Engine Computer.

It is common to go through four to six replacement generators in the life of the car. If it fails, to reduce the number of repeat failures, replace the battery at the same time unless it is less than about two years old.

My comment about replacing the battery is something I include for future reference for all GM car owners for '87 and newer models. The generators are a real common problem and the aged battery is the solution to repeat generator failures. As the batteries age, they lose their ability to dampen and absorb those harmful voltage spikes.

In your case the jumper cables were the clue. They will put tension on the connections by their very nature of being a stiff wire. With the better connection, that's why the engine will crank. Start by taking the cables off, (remove the negative one first because if the wrench hits the metal of the car, nothing will happen. If you take the positive off first or put it on last, and the wrench hits the car, you'll have a serious spark issue. Sparks can lead to a battery explosion from the hydrogen gas they give off). Scrub the cable ends and battery terminals with a wire brush to shine them up. If you see excessive white corrosion that looks like cauliflower, that is a sign the battery is about to fail within the next six months to a year, so you can be justified in replacing it. There are a lot of chemicals and coatings for that corrosion but none can address the underlying cause of the imminent battery failure.

If the check engine light is on, have the computer scanned to identify if the map is bad again. If there is no light, check for vacuum leaks and check the idle air control valve for function. Either of these items could cause it to stall at idle.

The map didn't cause the overheating. It sounds like a bad sensor at some point. You need to have the computer scanned to identify which one is the problem.