Power windows not working?

Hi,

Make sure none of the ground was missed under the dash. As far as the wiring schematic, I attached it below for you.

Note that the schematic was a page long. However, I cut it in half to make it readable for you. I did overlap the two so you can follow from one to the next.

Take a look through it and let me know if it helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Hi Joe,

I can control the driver front and back window from the driver master switch, but not the passenger side window. I check all for continuing on the green that had the power and there wasn't a break in the wire. So far, all the doors have power to the green wire at the switch. I only took one ground off when I took the dash off, and I checked it and it was tight. One strange thing is that I can roll up and down the driver's side window from the master switch but not on the door switch.

What would be the next thing to check?

Best regards,

Ron L Peterson

Oh, and all the doors locks work. It is just the windows.

And I can control the side mirrors.

Joe, on the passenger side front window I have power on both the dark blue and brown wire at the connector that plugged in to the motor. And I still can't roll up or down the passenger side windows.

Joe,

I had my daughter push the switch on the driver master switch for the passenger windows. I didn't find any power to the switch on either the passenger windows.

Best regards,

Ron.

It sounds like something is unplugged under the dash. Do you have continuity between the tan and lt blu wires from the master switch to the passengers side window switch?

Joe,

I took the dash off again and now I have continuing in the tan and light blue line from the master switch. I will check it when I put the dash back on. For the back passenger window is it dark green and purple or the light green and purple wire?

Ron

Hi,

Power to the right rear window from the master switch is purple and the other will be light green and dark green. See pic below.

Joe

See pic.

Thank you Joe.

Hi,

No problem whatsoever. Let me know how things work out for you.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe,

I have continuing of the tan and light blue wire from the master switch on the drivers door to the front passenger door. But I don't have power to green wire in the passenger side switch. I check the green wire for continuing and it goes into the fuse box on the right side of the dash. I check that fuse box for power and there was power to some pins but not the one for the green wire. How do I follow this up?

I have attached a photo show where it goes into the fuse box.

Ron

Hi Joe,

I have continuing of the tan and light blue wire from the master switch on the drivers door to the front passenger door. But I don't have power to green wire in the passenger side switch. I check the green wire for continuing and it goes into the fuse box on the right side of the dash. I check that fuse box for power and there was power to some pins but not the one for the green wire. How do I follow this up?

I have attached a photo show where it goes into the fuse box.

Ron

Hi,

The green wire should go to a circuit breaker on the lower right side of the dash (See pic 1 below). When you checked the green wire for power, was the key in the run position? If you did, the next question is does the radio work?

I ask because for the circuit breaker to get power the retained accessory power (RAP) relay needs to be actuated. Once that is actuated, power flows to the window circuit breaker. Also, power from the RAP goes to the radio. So, if the radio works, I know the RAP is working. LOL Wiring can be a nightmare. I'm trying.

Next, if the radio works, we need to suspect the circuit breaker may be faulty. If the radio doesn't work, we will need to check the RAP relay, fuses, and so on.

Pic 2 below is a factory GM schematic. They are a bit more difficult to follow. However, I highlighted power supplies and how the power leads to the window switch. I hope it helps.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

Hi Joe,

I suspected that the circuit breaker may be faulty so I bought a new one and installed it. I had the key turned on when I was inspecting the power to the wires. The radio has been working throughout this problem.

So based upon what you said that means the RAP is working. But I don't have power to the green wire. So looking at the wiring diagram, something is wrong downstream of the RAP?

Ron

Joe,

In the photo I have attached with me pointing to the wire and plug, there is a relay above the plug. Do you have any idea what it is a relay for? There isn't any information on the cover like there is on the other fuse boxes.

Ron

Hi,

I agree, the issue is after the RAP relay. I believe the relay you are pointing to is the fan relay and not related to the windows.

Did you replace the circuit breaker? If you did, was power present for it?

Let me know.

Joe

Joe, how do I check power to the circuit breaker? Where it plugged into

Ron

Hi,

yep, there should be power to it (an input) and then power out. Remember to check it with the key on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Let me know.

Joe

Hi Joe,

I just checked the power to the 25 amp circuit breaker and there isn't any power. Looking at the wire diagram for the RAP, there must be a break in the wire after the RAP relay. But also looking at the wire diagram I can see the driver side window on it and that switch works to control the front and back window. Where is the RAP relay and what color is the wire leading after it splits off from the wire to the radio?

Ron

Hi,

I pulled up the power distribution schematics. From what I'm seeing, it appears the connection between the RAP 2 relay and the CB must be integral to the fuse panel. There is no wire color provided.

Take a look at the pics below.

Joe.

Hi Joe,

The 50 AMP fuses for RAP1 and RAP2 are fine. Is the diagram of the I/P junction box under the steering column or the right side of the dash?

Ron

Do you have power at the ignition switch when in crank mode to the Yellow and Pink wire?

Hi Joe,

First off my truck starts when I turn the key. I found the relay. It was in the first photo I posted that you said it was the fan. I have a video of what happens when the window switch is engaged.

Please tell me what you think.

Ron

I found the RAP2 relay. It is above the 25 AMP circuit breaker. I tested it with a test light and the vi.

Hi Joe,

I found the RAP2 relay. It was above the 25 AMP circuit breaker. I tested it with a test light and it is in video attached. One pole doesn't get power when the switch is activated.

Please let me know what you think.

Ron

Hi,

I'm unable to see the test light. It is out of view. Keep in mind, one of the pins will be a ground.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi Joe,

In the video above, the top two pins had power, and the bottom right pin also had power. That is where the RAP 2 relay plugs into. The 25 Amp circuit breaker is right below it. When I checked the power to the circuit breaker, neither pin had power. Looking at one of the wiring diagrams that you sent, it looks like Pin 30 provides power to the 25 Amp circuit breaker. My question is, is there only one wire providing power to the circuit breaker? Meaning that once power gets to it, it fires?

I had to take my dash off again to get to the wires behind the fuse box on the right side of the dash. I confirmed that the relay was good. Based upon the 3-pin having power where the relay plugs to does that mean that the relay is working? If so, I need to focus on the wire going to the circuit breaker.

Best regards,

Ron

Hi,

That would make sense. On the relay, each pin should be numbered. The primary side should be pins 85 and 86. When power goes through the primary side, an electromagnet pulls a connector on the secondary side of the relay (pins 87 and 30) closed like a light switch. That allows power to then go to the component needing it. If you have power at both pins 87 and 30, the relay is working. If that power isn't reaching the CB, the break is between the two.

Joe

Hi Joe,

Do you happen to know what color are the two wires go into and out of the CB?

Ron

Hi Joe,

I got the back of the fuse box off. I'm a bit surprised that the relay only has a big red wire and a black thin wire. The CB has no wires behind it. I'm also surprised that it look like a panel connecting the relay and the CB. So it look like when the relay engages it send a signal to the CB to send power to the window. Do you think that is correct?

Ron

Hi Joe,

I the first photo this is the plug that goes below the CB in the fuse box. The second photo is the wires behind the plug. There isn't a wire in the position of the green wire but before I took the fuse box apart had continuing from that plug into that post without a wire. The third photo shows which two posts have continuing where my fingers are. In the last photo shows the thick red wire and the black wire going into the relay. When power is on both these wires have power.

So, the only posts in the relay that get power from two right posts. When the bottom left post on the relay gets power it sends it to the left side of the CB. The plug below the CB has continuing in the post with the dark green wire in the plug, but there isn't a wire in that position behind it. How do I go about troubleshooting this? There doesn't seem to be a broken wire. But there seems to be a problem with the signal. Please advise.

Ron

Hi Joe,

I have confirmed that the red wire has 12 volt power when it is hooked up to battery. When the key is turned on, the black wire gets power, and three of the Posts on the relay get power. If I bridge the post without power to the bottom left post with power the Relay clicks. When I tried to use the window switch on the door nothing happened. But using the master switch on the driver side the relay clicks but doesn't provide power to the post on the relay. What do you think is causing this? What should I track down?

Ron

Ron,

If you hear it click, the relay should close internally, and power should be present from the secondary side. If you have power to the relay's secondary side, once it clicks, you should have power out from it. Keep in mind, either pin 85 or 86 is a ground on the primary side, so it won't have power.

Let me know which pin-numbers you are referring to. I suspect it is either pin 30 or 87.

Joe

Hi Joe,

I think that joining pins 87 and 85 together made the relay click. I had power to all the pin except the ground.

Ron

Hi Joe,

I made a mistake. I joined pins 30 and 87 and the relay clicked.

Wow, that doesn't make sense. For the relay to click (close the circuit), power should go between 85 and 86. That would be the primary side that energizes the relay and causes the switch to internally close (click) and send power. Something isn't making sense. If you remove the relay, which pins have power? Primary side is 85 and 86. One will have power there, and 30 and 87 is the secondary side (one of them should have power).

I feel like I'm driving you crazy, but something isn't adding up.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi Joe,

I put the relay in and put a wire on the post that had continuity in the circuit breaker attached to a test light. It lit up when I flipped the driver's side switch for that door. So I have that side working now. I'm putting my dash back on and then will see why the passenger switch doesn't work.


Ron

Hi Joe,

Now I have a new problem. When I hook up the battery, a headlight comes on and so does the radio. With the battery attached I can't shut off the radio. What do you think is going on.

Ron

Hi,

I think we may need a priest. LOL Somehow we have power going to the headlamp when it shouldn't. That means there is a short to power after the switch. Check around the switch area and see if anything was damaged.

The radio (if it is factory) should turn off with the on/off button. That is what cuts power when you want it off. That one doesn't make sense to me.

Let me know.
Joe