Power windows not working?

When you say switch, do you mean the switch for the lights or for the power windows?

Hi,

The lights. You have the dash apart, so something from the switch may have been crossed.

Joe

Hi Joe,

It is the turn signal light on the passenger side. It was on when the battery was connected and key in the on position. I took the light out and it was covered in some white material, possible dried soap, when I was looking for a leak in the AC evaporator. I still had some soapy water in a bottle so I cleaned the light and connector to see the color of the wire in the back of it so I could check continuity with the wire in the cab. When I tested it again.....it was off! Do you think that a short was happening due to the dried soap? So now that is fixed so I can continue to see why I can't roll the passenger side windows up. I had Covid last week, so I didn't work on my truck.

Best regards,

Ron

Ron,

Thanks for the update. One down. LOL As far as the light, it sounds like corrosion or something. It is possible it was causing a problem. If it's working now, you did something that fixed it.

Let me know how things are going with the window as well.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe,

I had my test light hooked up and tested to see if the green wire was getting power and it was. So, I took the connector off of the window motor and there was power getting to the wires. So, I hooked everything back up and when I flip the switch there is a grinding sound and the lights go off and on, and no response from the window motor. See the video and have the volume up so you can hear the sound.

When I hook up the negative battery cable. I hear that sound before I have the screw in tight. I think that you would call this a parasitic draw.

Best regards,

Ron

Ron,

Is the battery good? I do hear it. Is the sound from under the dash? Are you able to pinpoint where the noise comes from? Does that sound only happen when you actuate the window motor?

Joe

Hi Joe,

I tested the battery, and it was at 12.56 volts. It is when I start attaching the negative battery screw into the side of the battery, I can hear the sound, and it seems to be in the engine bay. Yes, the sound only happens when I flip the switch and I hear the sound again, but when I flip the switch, the lights go out. So, I don't know where the sound is coming from, or why the lights go out.

Ron

Hi,

Do me a favor. Disconnect the window motor and see if the sound still happens when you try to switch the window. If it doesn't, we need to run power directly to the motor to see if it works. Something may be internally shorted in the window motor.

Joe

Hi Joe,

When I disconnected the connector going into the window motor the sound and the dimming lights went away. Since I couldn't control the passenger side light, I went to the rear door and that switch is working to roll the window up and down without the sound and dimming lights.

Ron

Rear window not lights.

Oh, and I confirmed that the sound is coming out of the RAP 2 relay. It was buzzing when the switch was flipped.

Ron

Do you think it is a bad power window motor? The fact that I can control the back passenger from that door switch means that the RAP 2 relay works, and I can control that window from the master switch. Now the only window that is not working is the passenger front window. If I unhook the plug in that window motor the sound and the dimming lights go away.

Ron

Hi Joe,

I just got a new window motor from Rockauto. I plugged it in and that didn't solve the problem.

Here is what I know. When the motor isn't attached the switch doesn't cause the noise or blinking lights. When I attach a test light to the connector going into the motor, I have confirmed that I get power to roll up and down the motor. The noises is caused by the RAP2 relay switching like crazy, making the light go off and on. I can control the passenger back window now by the switch on its door and from the master switch on the drivers side door. I just got a new motor and attaching it causes the RAP2 relay to cause the noise.

So the motor is getting power from the switch but the motor will not work. What could be causing this and how can I figure it out?

Ron

Hi Joe,

I just confirmed that I cannot control the power to the motor from the master switch to the front passenger motor. I have also shown that I have continuity with the green, tan, and light blue wires from the master switch to the switch on the passenger side switch.

Ron

Hi,

Are you getting power out at the master switch? The switch itself may be faulty.

Let me know.

Joe

The master switch can control the driver side front and back window and the back passenger side window. So, I don't think it is bad.

Hi,

The circuit for each window is different. I would check to see if that is where the power is lost (or not sent).

Joe

Can you please send me the wire diagram from that switch?

Hi Joe,

I thought I could refresh your memory of what is going on with my truck. In the video below I show that when the motor is disengaged, I can flip the switch, and I get power to both the post on the connector that goes into the motor. Then I connect that connector to a new window motor, and I get the same problem with the sound coming from the RAP2 relay and the flashing lights and the motor not responding.

I cannot control the passenger side window from the master switch on the driver side. I think it is controlled by a green, tan, and light blue wire. Is that correct?

And I can roll up and down the passenger back window with the master switch and its door switch. Doesn't that switch depends on the RAP2 relay?

Ron

Hi Joe,

I now have power to roll up and down the two back windows and the drivers side window from the master switch and by their door windows switch. I have power at the passenger side front window from the switch to the blue and tan wires that go into the motor on the passenger side front window. If I plug it into the motor and flip the switch, the RAP2 relay buzzes. If I go to the master switch and flip that switch the RAP2 relay also buzzes (see video). I have replaced the motor and regulator in that passenger side front window.

What would make the relay buzz?
And why can I control all the other windows but it?

Hi,

Was any of the wiring changed? It sounds like power is somehow being backfed to the relay. Often times that is due to a weak ground causing the power to find a different route to a different ground.

Joe

Joe,

I got a new relay and plugged it in and I have no more buzzing relay sound. I show that I have power to the window motor from the switch on the door and the master switch. So, it must be a bad ground. Can you confirm that that passenger front door has its own ground, of if not can you please send me a wiring diagram to where the ground is?

Thank you in advance.

Best regards
Ron

Hi,

I attached two pictures below related to the ground location. It is G203. Pic 1 is the schematic that indicates it is on the right side high behind the kick panel. Pic 2 says it's on the opposite side. Ugh!!!

The pics both came from the same manual. Check to see if you can locate it on one or the other side. Also, I noticed there is a splice pack for the ground. There is a good chance that is where the issue is located.

Let me know.

joe

See pics below.

Joe,

I have a question. When it says left side of Dash, is that the driver or passenger side of dash?

Ron

Hi,

They indicate the side based on you sitting in the vehicle. So, the left is the driver's side. Did you notice that the locations indicated from the same source are on opposite sides of the vehicle?

Joe

There is a ground on the passenger side of the dash, but it doesn't have anything but one wire attached to it.

Joe,

Can you please answer my question. You said that the splice pack would probably be the issue. I will need to take the dash off again to get to it. Is by bending and pulling the wires at the splice pack responsible for me loosing power at the switch?

Ron

Hi Joe,

I took my dash off again to get to the splice pack. I tested for continuity from the switch on the front passenger window that isn't working and the wires in the splice pack. Every wire in the splice pack had continuity with the switch. What does that indicate? That the switch has a ground?

Hi Joe,

This what I have found out. With the battery not connected, I have continuity from the switch to the ground. If I reconnect the battery continuity disappears. If I unconnected the battery, continuity comes back.

Ron