Power doors will not lock or unlock

As for the unlock issue I suspect the vehicle security module is the issue.

We need to check power going in and out of the module to find out if this is the cause of the locks not working.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Basically, if they are not working with the button or the fob then this is the likely cause so let's check for power from each of the fuses shown on the diagram below.

Then we need to check power coming out on pin 1 of C2113A.

This can also explain the door ajar switches as they are inputs to the same module.

Let's start with this and go from there.

Great. Thanks for the update. Let us know what you find and how this turns out.

Thanks for using 2CarPros.

Okay. So, we need to clarify something. You have 12 volts at pin one when pressing the unlock button? If you look pin 8 is also going to have power when you are pressing the other direction of the button and that will move the actuator in the opposite direction.

However, if you have power coming from both of these and the liftgate is the only one working then there has to be an issue with one of the splices that are tying in the other actuators.

To confirm this, just go to one of the actuators and check for voltage. It is possible to have all these actuators failed but if this happened at the same time then that is near impossible. However, if you just bought this then that may be worth checking first. If you have 12 volts at the actuator, then the actuator is the issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

If that is not the issue, then what I would do is inspect these splices for anything obvious and then just run your own 12 volts from this wire at the module.

What is happening is you are getting 12 volts to a certain point and then losing it from one of these splices. So, you can create your own splice and run new wires to make sure you have voltage getting to each actuator.

You want the circuit completely intact to plugged in and the door locks will operate with the car on and off, so it doesn't matter if it is on or not.

Then you want to back probe the circuit at the module which means you take a small wire probe tool and stick it in the back side of the connector to touch the metal part of the terminal inside the connector.

So, if you have low voltage and ranging voltage then that sounds like a ground issue.

So, let's check the ground for the module. You do this by back probing the ground on pin 14 of C2113A and then put the other meter lead (red one) on battery positive.

Your meter should read what the battery voltage is as you are checking the ground.

If you have less, than what the battery is then the ground is no good.

Let me know if you are not sure about how to do this and we can get more detail. I am attaching a picture below of what a back probe looks like. Clearly this is not the module, but it will give a good idea what to do.

Sounds great. We will wait to hear back. Thanks for the update.

Okay. I am pretty sure we have an electrical issue, and a ground issue would make sense but may not be what we have now.

However, anytime we get into this territory, we need to start at the beginning and that is making sure that you have a good battery because a weak battery will cause all sorts of issues. Just drive by a parts store and have them load check the battery just to make sure it passes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

If it does and the ground for the module checked out, then I suspect the module is the issue.

However, before we condemn the module, let's just run through getting voltages for each of these pins.

Take a look at the diagram below. If you can get voltage on each of these pins that will help us make sure we are on the same page.

Again, 14 needs to switch your other meter lead to battery positive so that it checks the ground just to double check that one. All the others you will have your other meter lead on a ground.

I suspect most of those voltages are correct because these should be door switches and if the door is open or closed then that will change the voltage. So, if you want to test that as well you can by opening or closing the door based on what pin you are on.

The OL concerns me because that is normally a resistance reading and not a voltage reading but that could be based on the meter you are using.

Feel free to print that sheet and write the values on it or just make a list from 1 to 14 and write them down then get a picture of that.

Lastly just make sure you note the orientation of the connector. Use the wiring colors to orient yourself so that we are not recording voltage incorrectly.

I get that you have done this, but I would not like to point you to a module if that is not the issue. Thanks

Okay. That is great.

Those do not look correct at all, so I suspect the module is shorted internally. You actually have 11 volts on the output and 14 on the ground.

So, I would expect to see 12 volts on pin 1 and 12 volts on the ground.

So that again points to a module issue or a possible faulty ground.

Let's do one more test to check the ground. This is called a voltage drop test. Basically, you put your red meter lead on pin 14 of the module. Then the black meter lead on the battery ground and see how many volts your meter reads. It should be less than a half volt.

Basically, you are checking to see how much voltage the ground wire, stud, and cable require to return the current to the ground post of the battery. It should be basically 0. If you have a loose or dirty ground location, then it will require more to overcome that resistance.

If that checks out, then I would replace the VSM module.

No. I don't show any programming on this one. Looks like the part number is 4L1Z-15604-AD. It is discontinued so you may have to find a used one unless you can find someone that has a new one still.

You are welcome and thanks for using 2CarPros. Please come back in the future if you need other help.

Can you send a copy of the instructions that were included with it? Basically, I am not seeing the process to program them which makes me think that when you order it from Ford, they will send it already programmed via the VIN. However, the aftermarket may require the module be told what options it has.

Also, was this a new or used part? Basically, we need to treat it the same by checking voltage coming out of it because we can't rule out another faulty part. That is unlikely but if the testing shows this is faulty then we need to trust that rather than assuming it has to be something else.