Parking brake cable replacement

Just to verify you gave me an OEM # of F75Z2853AA, which is for a 1997 F150 XL 4x4 extended cab with a 78.8 inch bed length, with a manual transmission and a 4.6L V8.
VIN # 1FTDX1860VBA40830, and a production date of 03/96.
The reason I ask is because when I put the specifics in mentioned above Dorman gives me a # C660345, but when I cross reference with the OEM you provided it gives me a Dorman #C660904. The C660345 cable is 95.6" in length, and the C660904 cable is 95.27" in length. The length of the cable isn't an issue, but the length of the shroud. Evidently there are multiple front cables for this year of F150 depending on specifics. Thanks

Hi,

You have the cable itself, and then you have the protective shroud around half of the cable with the two connections on each end to secure it in place. The cable slides back and forth within the shroud. That "dip" in the shroud between the two connections takes up a couple of inches of cable that could be pulled straight if it weren't connected to the brackets. If the portion of the shroud connected to the bracket underneath the truck were an inch or so shorter it would allow me to pull enough slack out of the cable to connect it to the equalizer. I can't pull the slack out of the cable itself because it follows the same path of the shroud. I've checked the mechanisms and everything is pretty basic. I just need to pull the slack out of the cable (created by the dip between the two fasteners) another inch or two to be able to connect it to the equalizer. The shroud needs to be an inch or two shorter, or the cable an inch or two longer. I've included a few pictures for reference. The fourth picture mimics the shroud being attached to the brackets that form the dip as compared to a shroud and cable that can be pulled straight, and the last picture shows how much shorter that bend in the shroud makes the reach of the cable itself as compared to one that is pulled tight. Thanks

Hey Joe,

Wanted to let you know about the solution to my emergency brake issue. The cables that my particular truck calls for are have a shroud that is about an inch too long. The length of the cable(95.6') is fine but the shroud which can't be moved back and forth between the brackets is about an inch too long. I pulled the assembly out and re attached the cable and pulled it tight and then used a ratchet strap and pulled the equalizer to pull the rear emergency brake cables out. Still about 1/2 " too short. I even made sure the adjustment "star" on the brakes was such that it wouldn't loosen up anymore (turned all the way to the left) still about 1/2" too short. Ultimately what I did was I ended up cutting the rubber shroud off of the cable right where the back fitting was and used a grinder to shave off the inner metal shroud underneath the rubber top shroud and was able to push the connection back about an inch. This allowed me the needed length to attach the cable to the equalizer. Emergency brake works fine now. Just very strange how I had to go about form fitting the cable. Maybe the actual OEM cable would have worked, but I'd already purchased two that I checked against the dimensions of the OEM and they were the same. I have the most obscure things happen to my vehicles lol. I have attached a picture showing the cable after I shaved it and pushed it back a bit to get the needed length. The inner metal liner shroud was about an inch long before it was shaved off I really appreciate all of the advice and help. Best wishes

Hi Joe,

My apologies for the reply to an old message, but you've helped me out a good bit in the past on this Ford truck that I wanted to ask you specifically about an issue with the Ford truck. Figured if I asked a general question I may or may not get you so decided to go this route. If it's not appropriate then I completely understand, and I'll simply post a new question.
Any event, same 1997 F150 4.6 V8.
The # 4 spark. It seems the hex has been rounded off such that I can't get a 5/8 socket on it. Does nothing but spin around the base of the plug. Tried a 15MM. Same thing. I tried a deep well extractor socket made by Irwin and that won't work either. Even tapped the 5/8 extractor socket down onto the plug a bit but it still would not catch the plug enough to get it out. Crazily this particular plug has prob been in there for 15 years or so. Mainly because the last two times I've changed the other plugs this plug just would not come out, and in trying to get it out have evidentially rounded the hex on the plug so I left it until the plug just gave out a few weeks ago. No doubt the plug is seized into the well. I already tried soaking the well with PB blaster for a few days, and even let the truck run to head that hole up a bit. No luck.
Would you by chance have any out of the ordinary way that I might be able to get this plug out short of removing the head? Needless to say, this plug is in the absolute worst possible place, with very limited room. Any tips or tricks that might work would be appreciated. If nothing works, I may just drive it on 7 cylinders when I need it lol.
Also, I did buy a bore scope and took a picture of the plug. And it looks like there might be something stuck next to the plug that is preventing the socket from fitting fully onto the hex. I've included the picture. Maybe you can advise on what it might be or if it's anything at all. Thanks again for any advice.

Hi, I actually meant say seized, not stripped. It's definitely not stripped because it won't budge. I've tried multiple thin wall, deep well sockets to no avail. The deep well extrication plug.I was able to tap down on it enough to catch, but it still wouldn't budge, even with leverage. Wish I could get some heat directly on it but it's not possible. The only way to heat it up is to drive on 7 cylinders and let the radiant heat get it hot. The thing about that is the hose to the heater core sits right above it and makes it that much harder to access. I honestly think the only way to get this out is to remove the head. Either that or survive on seven cylinders. Just a really dumb place and angle to have a spark plug considering the heater core connections are right above it.

I use PB Blaster. The biggest issue is that there is no way to get any direct pressure on it because of the lack of clearance. I feel if I could get direct pressure on it from above, I might be able to break it free. I may end up tapping it down onto the plug and then ramming a piece of wood between the top of the ratchet and the firewall to try and keep pressure on it as I turn it. If I may ask you, mention issues running the truck on 7 cylinders when needed. If the fuel injector is unplugged to that cylinder what other issues might that cause other than a little extra stress on the motor itself?
Thanks