Parking brake cable replacement

Hi Joe,
No I haven't opened the system again. I just started bleeding from the front left rather the the right rear. Seems that the brake fluid will drain about 5 inches in the tube with no bubbles and then I get a long stream of small bubble starting again. I probably topped the master cylinder off 15 times tonight while trying to bleed the front. The fluid coming out of the bleeder is new, clean fluid too, so all of the old fluid has been flushed from previous bleedings. When I replaced the left brake line that connects to the caliper I just replaced the line. I didn't replace the caliper. The bleeder screw for the two front calipers is on top of the caliper. I did bench bleed the master cylinder per instructions included with the master cylinder. I've again checked for leaks at all connections and find none. When I've pumped the brakes with the engine off the pedal firms up nicely and stays firm. There is no slow bleed down if it's left sitting for awhile. Also, when the brakes are pumped with the engine off you can hear the rear brakes expanding. I hear a squeak from the left rear wheel each time I press the pedal and, in the past, when I've attempted to bleed the rear wheels I can hear the brakes loosening up when the pressure is let off of the wheel. You mentioned the possibility the master cylinder main plunger possibly not being pushed. When I've bled the front brakes the bleeder screws shoot out a nice about of fluid when I've pressed the pedal with the engine off and the bleeder screw open. When I've done this the bleeder is sealed because the end of the bleeder tube is submerged in clean brake fluid. I think the master cylinder is okay because when I firm the pedal up when the engine is off the pedal goes down a decent amount on the first push, and then firms up a bit each press of the pedal afterwards until it reaches the point where you can't firm it up any more. If I'm not mistaken the master cylinder is strictly hydraulic as far as operation goes, so if it were a bad master cylinder I likely wouldn't be able to build pressure when the engine is off would I? I mean with everything I suspect it has to be air in the system, but I'm not sure how I could do anything different to get the air out than what I already have done. I mean having to top off the master cylinder so many times just to bleed the front brakes just seems abnormal. I'm going to check tomorrow to see if the brakes function with the vacuum line to the booster disconnected just to see what it does. Don't know what else to try, lol. Thanks again for the help.

Hi Joe. Just to keep you up to date. Today I replaced the bleeder screws on both front calipers because they had become rounded. I did make sure the pedal was pressed to the floor before replacing the screws.
That being said I've attempted again to bleed the front brakes and all that happens is what you will see in the video I've included. I continually topped the master cylinder off with close to 24 ounces of DOT3 before I tightened the bleeder screw. 24 ounces is enough to fill the entire line plus some, yet all it did for 20 minutes straight is what you see in the video. I did, once again check for leaks and couldn't find any. I just cannot comprehend any way that much air could be in that one line.

Sorry, not sure why that video I initially uploaded is playing like it is. Here is a better video for you:

Here is a picture since the videos aren't showing properly:

Sorry man for all of the messages. Just trying to keep you up to date on what is going on. Okay, so I removed the front two calipers today. On the drivers side only one of the two cylinders in the caliper pushed out, the other remained stuck in place and didn't move, and on the passenger side both valves barely moved, so obviously the driver side caliper needs to be replaced. Not sure if that would be the issue because it seems to me if a caliper was bad it would be leaking. Is there any check valve anywhere that might would let abnormally high pressure off of a braking system? I know there is one on the BB. Thanks yet again.

Thanks for the info. I can do everything you mention, but have no ability to bleed the ABS module with a scan tool. Do you have an idea of what might be a good but inexpensive scan tool that would allow me to do such? Also, I've looked for the ABS unit. I know you mentioned that it was behind the glove box but I cannot locate it. I see what I figure is the ECM, but I see nothing with brake lines coming off of it, unless the ABS module and the actual hydraulic portion of the ABS are at separate locations. I guess I'm simply going to go through the system again in addition to replacing one or both front calipers. Also, yes I was referring to the pistons in the calipers when I mentioned about the left one only having one piston working and the other stuck, and the right with both pistons barely moving. Didn't see any issues with the hub. No vibration in either as far as I could tell. I do know this whole mess started when I replaced the rear wheel cylinders and brakes shoes. Should have just left it as is and not messed with it. Thanks

HI,

So I replaced the front right caliper, reinstalled it, and bled it. After that I spent literally hours trying to bleed the system and still very little success. Pedal still firms up nicely when engine is off but right back to the floor again when the engine is on. Either there is just an extraordinary amount of air in the system or there is another issue. I did remove the vacuum line from the booster and plug it so as not to have a vacuum leak, put the truck in gear to see if the brakes would stop the rear wheels from turning without booster help. It was a little better but not good at all. Hitting the brakes as hard as I could all I could muster was a gradual stop. Trying to turn the front wheels with the brakes applied I can't budge them. Would love to be able to drive this to a garage and let them take care of it, lol.

Good morning.

No, no change at all with the new master cylinder installed. Pressure builds when engine is off, but pedal straight to the floor when engine is running. I do think the front calipers are working properly now since I replaced the left front caliper. System was re-bled per rear wheel ABS instructions. Yes, the FPV is installed. Also, I noticed there was some sort of hydraulic mechanism that sits right under the master cylinder and is actually attached, along with the master cylinder to the two bolts that attach the MN to the BB. Is that the ABS hydraulic mechanism? Thanks

Also, I know you said the ABS module for my truck is behind the glove box, but I can tell you I've looked and looked and looked some more and do not see any type of brake line coming from anywhere other than the master cylinder and the contraption underneath it that I mentioned in the previous message. I have searched the entire vehicle for the brake lines coming off the ABS pump and I see none anywhere. Noe under the hood, and none underneath the truck in the front or back. Now I do know that this was a wrecked vehicle when I bought it in 1998 so I'm not sure if there was anything changed on it or not because I've never needed to do anything with the brakes other than changing the pads and shoes. On none of the wheels is there an additional line going to the back of the wheel that you would normally see with ABS. The only lines are the brake lines going to the front wheels, and the brakes lines and parking brake cable going to both rear wheels. There is a contraption that is sitting to the left of the hogs head that has both rear brake lines running from it and what appears to be electrical connections coming from it, so this may be associated with the rear ABS, but I'm not certain. I do know the ABS light is flashing rapidly, but that could be because there is an issue with the braking system itself, and there have been a couple of times where I've brakes a little hard and felt what feels like the abs kicking in. Not sure if it being a 4WD manual trans has any bearing on the issue. I've included a two pics to explain what I'm talking about. Thanks

Also wanted to include these images of the master cylinder, along with the contraption underneath it.

Good evening. Well, I finally have driving brakes. Still have a broken emergency brake, so that is the next project. In any event I did go ahead and replace the booster and re bled the lines afterwards and I finally got brakes. Not sure whether it was some fluke problem with the BB, or it just needed one more bleed. The BB was in bad shape as the springs and the like where the rod goes from the pedal into the BB was all rusted and corroded, and the protective boot was gone. The extra bleed had a tiny bit of air on one line but overall it appeared the lines were in pretty good shape. Now as far as the ABS working I don't know, but I do know the flashing ABS light went off and is no longer flashing. Now if I can get the emergency brake replaced I think everything will be in good shape. I do have another emergency brake cable that I ordered before I realized my driving brakes were gone, so I guess Ill attempt to fix that tomorrow. I appreciate all of the advice and help with these issues. I'll be back in touch to let you know how the emergency brake replacement goes. Thanks again and take care.

I have no clue how or why it started working other than I adjusted the BB shaft out just a hair and that little bit of difference may have pushed the valves in the MC just enough to get a tiny bit of air out that was trapped in the MC itself because a tiny bit of air did expel on that last bleeding. That's the only thing I can think of other than some crazy leak in the BB somewhere.

Thought I would share this photo with you of the old BB.

Haha. A ring of pure rust that looked like a huge washer fell off when I pulled it out, but no, no problems replacing it at all. A very easy repair.
Now, as far as the parking brake cable goes. I'd hoped the first cable was just a wrong part sold by accident, but the new cable I just got is identical in length as far as the cable and the shroud are concerned. Not exactly sure how it make it fit as there really isn't anything different I would or could do compared to the first time. I'd hoped the new cable would be about an inch longer, but no luck.