Cranks no start

There is a relay for the fuel pump. It is in the IPDM but I don't think it is serviceable. I attached below the wiring diagram and the testing for the fuel pump for this vehicle.

Also, we can check fuel pressure to confirm this is the issue but it sounds like it is.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

See below for this info and let us know what you find.

Can you tell me where the fuel pressure port is? Can't seem to find it.

I removed the cover over the pump and i can hear it work whenever i turn the ignition on.

Can't tell from the diagram what color wire should have power once ignition is on, it's confusing.

The control wire to the relay from the PCM is red. The power supply is yellow from the relay to the pump.

I attached the process on how to test the fuel pressure. Even more reason we need the pressure because if you can hear the pump then the wiring is fine but we need to know if the pump can produce the pressure.

I see, now it's more clear, ugh even japanese cars now need special kits or adapters. i will get it ASAP. it's a kit they use to test the pressure as these cars have no port.

Haha. Not sure why they all seem to make it harder to test this stuff. Thanks for the update. Let us know what happens. Thanks

Still waiting on an adapter to test the fuel pressure, but I sprayed some fuel in the throttle and it started for a second so now we know it's a fuel issue. I am hoping it's the fuel pump, as this is an easy replacement, I read others had an issue with the relay and replaced the IPDM, but I am not sure if it is just the small box by the big fuse box or if it's the whole fuse box, crossing fingers.. If the pump is making noise, isn't that an indication that it's getting power from the relay? But test light not showing any light at all at any of the pump wires, unless the test light isn't connected right, I will check again.

You nailed it. If the pump is making noise then it is a safe assumption that the electrical side is just fine. I would go with the pump as well if it starts on starter fluid.

I attached that process from the manual below.

There are two u its on this car one behind passenger one behind driver, the one behind the passenger is the fuel pump and i assume the one behind the driver is the fuel sending unit? The directions talk about disconnecting the sending u it from pump, i can't tell from the picture but correct me if am wrong, there is a hose that runs from driver to passenger side pump and that hose needs to be disconnected when i lift up the pump?

Yes. You are correct. Take a look at the highlighted sections from the attachments below.

When you pull up the main unit there is a fuel line that is highlighted and you release that with the tabs. Then the main unit should come out.

Hopefully this helps but I think you are on it.

Yup, exactly, just making sure. Thanks

I had a replacement IPDM just in case, as it's a cheap one, same results. Measured fuel pressure and it's great at 50, plenty of fuel comes of the line too...it wants to start...checked plugs just in case they were fouled/flooded, they looked dark as expected but none are wet, replaced them anyways as am preparing this car for a relative so mind as well...battery shows 12 after I tickled charged it, but when you start it under load it drops to 5 or 6, so am charging it again, but even with a jumper box it still turns but doesn't start...am starting to think it's. spark issue.. what controls the spark on these cars?

Checked on soaked plug again and it is a bit wet so there is fuel, placed a spark plug to ground and there is no spark. is it safe to say that the ECU is bad? If it was the crankshaft sensor it would not have had any fuel. No codes whatsoever.

Okay. That is good. Yes. It could be the ECM but that just sends the signal to the coil on when to fire the plugs so it could still be sending the signal but the coil is faulty.

I attached the process on how to test the ignition system but the idea is to go back through the system from the plug and find where you do have power. If you get to the coil and do not have power coming in then we can assume the ECM is the issue.

Thanks for the info. Hard to believe that all the coils are bad, i will check power at coils and see if i find anything. Which of the coil wires should have constant power when ignition is on and which lights up when starting

There is power on one of the wires when ignition is on, there is also ground, the 3rd one has no power when starting the car. so i assume no signal is coming from the ECU.

Great job. I attached the diagram below. Assuming it is the wire in pin 1 from the ECM which should be fired when that coil is to be fired, then I would agree the ECM is faulty.

It is odd that all the coil drivers on the ECM have failed so just make sure the theft light or something silly like that is not on.

Yes, first thing i checked for is the alarm light but i cannot see it flashing anywhere. also what is the job of the condenser? I read anoit it few times.

The condenser is what supplies the low side voltage. So it supplies the 12 volts and then the ECM sends the signal for when the coil is to fire the plug so the coil interrupts the 12 volt feed to create the high voltage spike which gets delivered to the plug.

I got a new ECU which is synched based on VIN. But of course the key fob has to be programmed. I tried to login with my Autel but i cannot get to the step where it says program fob cause it keeps saying not able to communicate with ECU, and with the ignition on and key in slot, slot is not lit up like it used to when i was trying to start it and it would turn over, now it wont turn over at all and the alarm light is on the dash with the ignition on. any suggestions? Would the not programmed fob even prevent it from turning over? Am trying to find out if it's a fob issue or something else. Same thing happened with the used ECU i purchased it wont turn over and my stupidity i deleted the registry on the key in trying to make it synch with the used ECU.

Also, isn't the fact that the fob slot isn't lighting up an indication that it isn't programmed to the car? If so, how am i able to turn the ignition on and all lights come on the dash, i tried to activate things manually with the scanner like the horn and it did respond so i don't understand.

Very strange, called a locksmith who programs these fobs and he could not communicate with the refurbished ECU. so, i told him let me put the old one back and see if it will work, so he was able to communicate with the old one and got the key slot to light up, and am back to where I started at least with it turning over.

Sorry for the delay. but it appears you made progress. Sounds like you need them to swap out that ECU. If the old one communicates and this one does not directly points to the ECU. More than likely this was a rebuilt ECU and they didn't fix the communication circuit or put the wrong resistor in the circuit so the scan tool is not able to talk to it.

Am sending it back for a refund, don't know what to do right now, get a used one for $40.00 and try to have it programmed to the key again or what. I wish there was a way to test whether a coil signal could get the car to run.

Can you tell me where the crank shaft sensor is and how to remove it please?

I know you guys are busy, so i kept looking and found it, it's a PITA but replaced it. Put a new battery, and tried, i got about 1/2 second of it starting so that's something different but then the battery started to get weaker. But it now sounds like it wants to start. I wish it would give me codes, only thing that is always there but not under current codes or pending but permanent are: p2133, p2119, which were there from before but i doubt these would stop the car from starting.

Also, the old crank shaft sensor was bone dry. isn't it supposed to have oil on it like camshaft sensors?

No. The crank sensor needs to be dry. It is only reading the rise and fall of the crank tone wheel so there is no oil.

Looks like you have a throttle body issue. I attached the info for these two codes. However, I would pick one as I suspect you fix one it fixes the other.

Thanks for that. i will have it checked out. If i do, could that prevent it from starting? Also, when i spray starting fluid in one of them, sometimes the car would almost want to start, but the fuel pressure is good, and there was fuel coming out from where i measured the pressure, so is it possible that fuel is getting there bit injectors aren't firing?

Only thing they giving me is to check volts between pin 6 and ground and it has 5 volts, and there is continuity between ECM and throttle harness.

You mean pin 6 of the TP sensor? If so, you are testing for the wrong code. You had the P2133 which means we need to check pin 1 and ground.

Basically it is the same wire just on bank 2 actuator.

Take a look at the highlighted section below and wiring diagram.

Thanks.

It does have 5 volts.

Sprayed starter fluid the other throttle and started for a second and shut off, that means there is spark but no fuel right? How do i know that injectors are firing even though there is fuel reaching the fuel pressure lines?

That is correct. If just adding a fuel source and it starts then the plugs and all other components are operating. It is simply not getting fuel to the combustion chambers.

Here is a guide on how to test the injectors. You need to use a test light or noid light to see if they are firing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

If they are firing and there is pressure then they should be delivering fuel.

Have not gotten to check injectors yet as they are under the intake, got a spark plug tester and its weird it shows that it sparks only once when you try to start and then motor keeps turning. same result on the spark plug itself against a ground or on the light tester used to check spark.

That is strange. Does it still start and run when you add the starter fluid? If you continue to add the starter fluid does it continue to run?

The single spark and then no more points to a theft issue. This would also make sense why the injectors are not firing. Is the theft light staying on?

Am going to take a video of the cluster while starting. no, it's not on. Injectors are hard to reach i have to remove the intake to test them.

Okay. A video will help. I think it is safe to assume that if it continues to run on starter fluid that the injectors are not firing but the plugs do continue to fire or it would not continue running.