No spark at plugs or distributor?

Hi goldy79,

Test for power supply to distributor Black/Yellow eire. If power is available with ignition switch turned to ON and while cranking, the ignition coil or ICM is bad.

Hey BEARSAUTO1026

Im wondering if the timing belt is in tact, can you remove the oil filler cap and cranks the engine over to see if the camshaft is rotating?

Please let me know

Best, Ken

Is it a new or used distributor? If it was used do you see rust colored dust inside?

I found this wiring diagram so you can do some testing.

Blk/yel should have power with the ignition on, also disconnect the blue wire and try it in case the tach is shorted out causing the problem.

Let me know,

Best, Ken

Hey BEARSAUTO1026,

This sounds like an ignition coil problem, when you replaced the distributor did you get a rebuild one or used?

Best, Ken

Here is a testing procedure for you.

Perform an input test for the igniter unit after finishing the fundamental tests for the ignition system and fuel emission system. Check for blown No.32 (50 A) fuse in the dash fuse box before testing.
Remove the distributor cap, the leak cover and the rotor.

Disconnect the WHT wire, BLK/YEL wire, WHT/BLU wire, and the BLU wire from the igniter unit.
Use a voltmeter to check for battery voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and the body ground with the ignition switch ON
.
A) If there is no voltage, check for an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the igniter unit and the ignition switch.

B) If there is battery voltage, go to step 4.
Use a voltmeter to check for battery voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and the body ground with the ignition switch ON.

A) If there is no voltage, check for:
-Faulty ignition coil.
An open in the WHT/BLU wire between the igniter unit and the ignition coil.

B) If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.
Check for continuity between the WHT wire and the body ground.

A) If there is no continuity, check for:
An open in the WHT wire between the igniter unit and the PGM-FI ECU. -Poor ground at thermostat housing (G101 or G151). Refer to Cooling System / Cooling Fan Motor / Diagrams. See: Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Cooling System Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Diagrams Electrical

b) If there is continuity, go to step 6.
Check for continuity between the BLU wire and the body ground.

A) If there is no continuity, check for:
An open in the BLU wire between the igniter unit and the tachometer or the A/T control unit. -Poor ground at thermostat housing (G151), left front fender well next to washer bottle (G301) or left kick-panel (G401). Refer to Cooling System / Cooling Fan Motor / Diagrams. See: Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Cooling System Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Diagrams Electrical

b) If there is continuity, go to step 7.
If all continuity and voltage tests are normal, but the engine won't start, replace the igniter unit.
NOTE : The igniter unit may be covered under the manufacturer's emission warranty. Contact the appropriate agency before replacing.

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Best, Ken

We are missing something, here is a wiring diagram so you can do some testing, if all checks out the distributor is bad and you need another one to get the problem fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Please let us know what happens.

Best, Ken

Code 8 s TDC so pull hazard fuse in main fuse-box for ten seconds then reinstall see if it starts. If not then it is a distributor or wiring issue instructions in picture. If it is a CRX or CRXF it may be different this is for a base Honda Civic.

Wow - based on the last statement which says "Just fires a little, barely runs, backfiring, stuttering" I would be led to believe that is have a fuel deprivation. I think you are going to have to breakdown and replace that filter to start with. Then determine if it will run better, if not I would then consider getting it tested for fuel pressure.

You mentioned the CEL and I would see if it offers any pointers by pulling the codes from the ECU. Probably just points to an engine misfire but you never know. This could also be a cam or crank sensor that is bad.

How about the TDC sensor in the distributor have you rule that out