Engine cranks but no spark?

Tiny
DUANEO
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.7L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 112,000 MILES
Stopped at the store shut the car off came out started drove about 300 feet and it stalled out. Is there an adapter that I can get for my laptop to read codes with?
Friday, April 1st, 2016 AT 2:47 PM

21 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
9 times out of 10 it will be the crankshaft angle sensor. Here is a guide to help test for spark and the location of the crankshaft sensor in the diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.
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Friday, April 1st, 2016 AT 3:23 PM
Tiny
DUANEO
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  • 6 POSTS
The security does it reset when you disconnect the battery? If so now what?
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Friday, April 1st, 2016 AT 5:16 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
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I fyou disconnect the battery it engages and must be reset when battery is reconnected.
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Saturday, April 2nd, 2016 AT 6:29 AM
Tiny
DUANEO
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thank you. I did some more looking and found that the FI/ECU fuse was blew out so I put another one in it started for a second and it blew again. I changed the negative battery cable. But it was not a Honda cable I know the Honda cable has a extra connector that bolts to the body. So I got the correct cable witht he body ground and that fixed it thank you for the help though.
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Saturday, April 2nd, 2016 AT 5:53 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
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Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.
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Sunday, April 3rd, 2016 AT 8:36 AM
Tiny
ASA4GOD
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 145,000 MILES
Where is the ckp sensor located on 2000 honda civic 1.6L sohc, and could this component cause a no spark condition from the ignition coil?
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 1:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Yes it will, The crankshaft position sensor (CKP), top dead center sensor (TDC), and cylinder position sensor (CYP) are incorporated into one component which is built into the distributor.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 1:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
APFING
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 133,000 MILES
Hello tech's, I have a problem with my wifes 2000 Civic EX. I'm am desperate for any ideas at this point. The problem started one morning when she was leaving for work, car turns over but no fire. I checked for spark and nothing.

I tested voltage going to the coil and it shows 12 volts, so I assume that means the problem is in between the coil and the plugs. I replaced the Ignition Control Module and still no fire. So I replaced the entire distributer (coil, module everything), cap, rotor, and spark plug wires today, and still no spark. Cam is turning, timing belt looks good.

No CEL or anything showing signs of trouble prior to this. Only thing wrong with the car prior to this was the cruise control stopped working about 2 or 3 months ago.

Any ideas I would GREATLY appreciate!

Thanks
al
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 1:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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Hi apfing,

If the distributor is good with power getting to it, it should spark. Check if power is available while cranking. A faulty ignition switch might not provide power to the distributor while cranking though it is providing when turned on only.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 1:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
J02WS6TRANSAM
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
  • 2000 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 120,000 MILES
Hello. I have a 2000 Honda civic ex 1.6. When the car is cold is starts up and drives fine, but after a while of driving or sitting idling the car will shut off and not restart. It will just crank over. The car looses spark. I have tested each plug wire with a spark tester and no spark at all. I knew it could be the coil or icm so I just bought a entire NEW distributor which came with all new components inside. The car does the same thing. Runs fine when cold but once it gets warm, the engine dies and wont restart until it sits for 5 hours or so and cools down. Same no spark issue. Very weird since the coil, icm and all those components are new. I dont know what else it could be. Please help!
Thank you for your time
Jon
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 1:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
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The ignition coil and module are the last things to suspect. They have very low failure rates. What you're describing is typical of a failing crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. Those often fail by becoming heat-sensitive, then they work again after they cool down.

The first thing you should do is check the diagnostic fault codes. The people at many auto parts stores will do that for you for free. If the Engine Computer had sufficient time to detect the missing sensor signal before the engine stopped rotating, the code will tell you which circuit to look at. Often no fault code is set. In that case, I know that with Chrysler products and their scanner, it will display those sensors with a "no" or "present" during cranking to indicate if the signals are being received. I don't know if Honda has that capability, but regardless, you would need a scanner capable of showing that information.

Normally we want to perform some electrical tests in any circuit to rule everything else out before moving to the sensor itself, but based on the way your engine is acting, it's a pretty good bet the sensor is the cause of the stalling and not some other wiring or connector problem.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 1:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
J02WS6TRANSAM
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
The coils and icm on these hondas are very problematic and usually the culprit. But not in this case. The car has a crank and cam sensor that is built into the distributor. So they would all be new with the new distributor. There is also a sensor on the front of the motor called the crankshaft fluctuation sensor. Not sure if that could be causing my issue or not.
Any thoughts?
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 1:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
Yup. There's three versions of the 1.6L engine and all of them show a distributor with separate cam and crank sensors. You're going to have to figure out which of us is wrong by looking at your engine, but if you think about this logically, you can't measure crankshaft timing with a sensor in the distributor. That one can only measure camshaft timing. There wouldn't be any point to having two sensors in the distributor measuring the same thing.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 1:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NGSX468
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2000 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,000 MILES
I have a 2000 Honda Civic LX, and the car turns over fine, but it will not start. I checked to see if there is spark, and there is no spark. Now, people told me it could be either the coil or the ignition control module. If it is the ignition control module, how do I replace it? The cam seems to be in the way of the screws to the ICM. Any help would be great!
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 1:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,302 POSTS
To remove the ICM, you remove all the female connectors going to it. And there will either be two philip head screws that fastener the ICM to the top of the distributor housing, or there will can be 8mm fasteners that bolt up from the outside of the housing.

Once the fasteners are removed, pull the ICM up and straight out. Keep in mind you must remove the rotor to access the ICM
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 1:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NGSX468
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I got to that point, and I see the screws, but it appears that the cam is in the way of the screws...
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 1:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,302 POSTS
Can you post a picture of your distributor? Honda uses two different distributors and it'll be hard for me to find a picture of both and circle which screws are which.

But trust me, they reluctor wheel shaft is not in the way. Are there screws or bolts fastening the ICM from the outside?
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 1:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,302 POSTS


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/276698_ignitor_removal_1.jpg



This is what it should look like. I highlighted the screws in red
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 1:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SKRUBLIFE
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I have a 95 honda civic 1.5 V-TEC that is doing the same thing. I spent money I didn't need to speend trying to fix it inclueding buying a new distributer. It seems to me by looking at all the posts for honda civics, that this problem happens ALOT. In a repair book, it says that if one component of a destributer goes bad u need to replace the whole thing. Beleive me it will save u money. I gave up on my car and had it towed to a shop, it is getting worked on as we speek. When I get it back, I am going to post what was wrong with it in hopes that it will save time and money for others.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 1:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,302 POSTS
You do not need to replace the whole distributor if it has failed.

You can purchase the ICM and ignition coil seperately. You cannot purchase the sensors however, but they are removeable and can be replaced with a good known sensor. This is not recommended by honda though.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 1:24 PM (Merged)

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