1997 Nissan Truck Fuel & Heat Gages

I have checked the back of the fuse box and found that fuse #9 has a black/white wire running to it not a green/ white wire. The green/white wire is at fuse #6. And I checked the ohms from fuse #11 the white/black wire to back of the instrument cluster it checked good. And It has 12.5 volts with the truck started. I also checked fuse #20 the red/green wire and the ohms checked good to the back of the instrument cluster but had no voltage on it either, way I tried it. All this started when I had to change alternators because the truck was not charging the batt. Now I have got the alternator charging but I have no instruments.

Is it safe to run a jumper wire from the red/green wire on the back of the fuse panel to the red /green lead on the back of the instrument cluster plug.

Okay, I took my multi-meter and put in on voltage and put the red lead on the back side of fuse #20 the red/green wire and black wire of the multi-meter in the terminal with the red/green wire. On the instrument cluster. And For some reason, I got 12.5 volts just on that one wire. Not hooked to any ground wire. Doesn't that mean I have got a ground problem somewhere's? If yes, any ideas where to start looking first.

My black lead is in the ground wire in the top right plug on the instrument cluster that has airbag written beside it. And on my fuse #6 is a 10 amp fuse, not a 15 amp fuse.

With everything plugged in and testing from the same ground that I was before. With my multimeter on the same setting as before, I only got 1.8 volts on the white/black wire this time. With the engine running.

It is 9:05 pm here and I have stopped working for today. I will start back tomorrow morning. And I will let you know what I find out.

Okay, I took my black lead and grounded it first to the chassis and checked and there was no change in the voltage. So then I hook my black lead to the ground side of the battery and Still no change on the black/white wire. I still have voltage on all the fuses but not to the instrument cluster. That's with the truck running. But the fuses are showing from 13.5 - 14.2 volts with my multi-meter set on 30 volts. I also checked the voltage at the battery and I got 14.2 volts with my multi-meter set on 30 volts. I just checked the Ohms on all three wires from the gray plug behind the fuse panel and all three the white/black, red/green, and green/white all checked good. I also checked the ground on all 4 points on the instrument cluster and all checked good.

Okay, I checked between the ground on the battery and the ground on the back of the cluster and it checked good. And yes I have checked the black/white wire to the back of the cluster to the black/white wire at the SMJ connection. All 0's out on ohms. Also, there is no day time driving lights my truck.

Checked fuse #11 have got 14.2 volts on both sides of the front of fuse but can only get to one side on the back of the fuse panel. But it also had 14.2 volts on it. And the white/black wire had 1.43 volts on it. Also, my multimeter is set on 20 volts, not 30 volts. Could the problem be at the J/c-1 connection in under the seat?

No, I have 14.2 volts on both sides of fuse #11. Is the J/C2 connection behind the kick panel. The only connection of wires that go to the instrument cluster I can find is in a gray connection block. And I checked the voltage on the white/black wire both at the gray connection block and the instrument cluster and only got 1.43 volts on it. I also found out that I have no backup lights on the truck either. They used to work on it.

Let me start from the beginning with my 1997 Nissan truck. It all started when it stopped charging so I got a new battery that was not the problem. So I got a new alternator and it still was not charging. So I replaced the check bulb relay still not charging. While I was doing all this the water pump started leaking so I replaced it. And When I went to put the belt back on the water pump I seen it was too long so I got a belt 1/2 inch shorter an put it on and tighten the belt up. And Found out that the alternator was now charging 14.2 volts. But I didn't have any instruments working in the instrument cluster. Have you got any ideas about what I need to do now? Also, the backup lights are not working now and they were working before. I almost forgot that my son changed out the third relay over the top of the fuse panel. And That's when the instruments stopped working. We have replaced the relay and still have no instruments.