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1997 Nissan Truck Fuel & Heat Gages

Tiny
EDBREHM
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 NISSAN TRUCK
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 125,000 MILES
The Fuel and Heat gages stopped working today. The fues in the cab were checked twice with no problems. What could be the solution to the gages not working.
Sunday, November 16th, 2008 AT 6:14 PM

53 Replies

Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Check the alternator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

let me know
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Wednesday, November 19th, 2008 AT 9:03 PM
Tiny
RAJ42763
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Has a new alternator on it. What do I do next.
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Saturday, March 30th, 2019 AT 10:45 AM
Tiny
JOETECHPRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 705 POSTS
Hey EDBREHM,

We are working on a 1997 D21/Hardbody right?

Please see the attached wiring diagram for the instrument cluster.
I have also attached the pin location diagram.

It looks like the fuel and temperature gauges share a ground connection inside the instrument cluster.

Does the speedometer work correctly?

Do both temperature and fuel gauges rear 0 - needles don't move at all?

You will need to remove the instrument cluster to carry out some tests with a multimeter to pin point the cause of the issue.

Do you have access to a multimeter?

Can you please send a picture of you instrument panel?
Just to make sure we have the right information.

Rgards, Joe
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Sunday, March 31st, 2019 AT 3:40 PM
Tiny
RAJ42763
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Nothing works on it. No speedometer, No tach, No fuel, No temp. All lights work on it but nothing else. And The images you show are correct for my truck.
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:34 AM
Tiny
JOETECHPRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 705 POSTS
Hey RAJ42763@YAHOO.COM,

Can you please start by checking the fuses?

Guide on how to check fuses below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

I have attached the wiring diagrams again, the first ones came out a bit small.

You are looking for fuses 9,11 and 20.

The fuse board should be under the left side of the dash.

Report back on what you find.

If these are okay you will need to check at the back of the instrument panel.

Regards, Joe
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 8:17 AM
Tiny
RAJ42763
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  • 30 POSTS
Checked all fuses. All check good. Checked the back of the instrument panel. All looks good. Nothing broken.
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 8:37 AM
Tiny
JOETECHPRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 705 POSTS
Hey RAJ42763@YAHOO. COM,

Do you own a test light or a multimeter?

There is a connector that you can check anyway.

The ground for the instruments runs through the connector J/C-2 on the diagram attached.

It is below the SMJ connector I have attached a diagram for this, it would also be good to disconnect the SMJ connector and check this for corrosion.

Check the condition of these connectors, if loose or corroded this could be your issue.

Regards, Joe
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 9:07 AM
Tiny
RAJ42763
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Yes, I have a multi-meter. I also do not have an oil light, no charge light or park brake light coming on when I turn the switch on. What else do I need to check?
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 9:19 AM
Tiny
JOETECHPRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 705 POSTS
Hey RAJ42763@YAHOO. COM,

Please remove the instrument cluster and check for voltage between the black wire pin 42 (ground) and the following pins -

pin 34 - red/green wire, should be permanent feed 12V
pin 30 green/white wire should be12V with key in accessory/ignition positions
pin 17 - 12V with ignition on or when cranking

If you get nothing on any of these tests then try the same test but take the black lead from your multimeter and place it on a known good chassis ground instead of at pin 42.

Let me know what you get.

Regards, Joe
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 3:28 PM
Tiny
RAJ42763
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I have got no voltage on both the red/green wire or the green/white wire. What color wire is pin #17.
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 11:01 AM
Tiny
RAJ42763
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
The instrument cluster light up. And The turn signal lights work. Also, The high beam light work. But that is all that works in the cluster.
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 11:06 AM
Tiny
JOETECHPRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 705 POSTS
Hey RAJ42763@YAHOO. COM,

Can you recheck that you have voltage at both sides of both fuses 9 and 20?

Pin 17 is a white/black wire.

If you have power to fuses 9 and 20 but no power at the red/green wire or the green/white on the cluster then you must have a break in the wire/bad connection between the fuse box and the cluster.

Have you made sure the ground you are using for testing is good?

If you check between battery positive and that ground you should have 12 volts.

Also if you check between the black wire on the back of the instruments and the battery negative/known good ground you should also have 0 volts.

Regards, Joe
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 11:52 AM
Tiny
RAJ42763
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
I have unhooked the SMJ connector and checked the red/green wire also the green/white wire and white/black wire with my multi-meter and all wires checked good. I have got power on all the fuses. What do I need to do next?
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 2:03 PM
Tiny
RAJ42763
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
I checked the wires between the SMJ plug and the connectors behind the instrument cluster with my multimeter and all checked good.
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 2:14 PM
Tiny
JOETECHPRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 705 POSTS
Hey RAJ42763@YAHOO. COM,

So to confirm.

You have 12 volts at both sides of fuses 9 and 20?

Using the same ground connection with the black test lead, then probe the red/green wire and then green/white at the back of the instrument cluster with the red lead on your multi-meter, do you have 12 volts on either?

If you do have voltage at the fuse but not at the instrument cluster switch your multi meter to ohms and test the wiring from the non powered side of the fuse to the instrument cluster.

With the fuses removed you test each side of the contacts the fuses went into, you should have one side with 12 volts and one side with 0 volts.

Keep the fuses out and disconnect the instrument cluster. You should have continuity/low resistance between the sides of the fuses that reads 0 volts other end of the red/green or green/white wire.

Can you get access to a 12 volts automotive test light? It may be easier to test with a test light.

Let me know what you are getting.

Regards, Joe
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 4:09 PM
Tiny
RAJ42763
  • MEMBER
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I have got 12 volts all the time on fuse #20. But the only time I have voltage on #9 is with the switch turned on. But with the switch on I have got 12 volts on all the fuses.
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 4:23 PM
Tiny
JOETECHPRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 705 POSTS
Hey RAJ42763@YAHOO. COM,

Yes that is correct, please then follow the instructions in my last message.

Let me know how you do.

Regards, Joe
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 4:39 PM
Tiny
RAJ42763
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
I tested both the red/green and green /white wire and I do not have any voltage on them. Then I pulled both fuses #9 and #20 checked on the none voltage side with my multi-meter on ohms and got nothing with either the red/green or the green/white wire.
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 4:59 PM
Tiny
JOETECHPRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 705 POSTS
Hey RAJ42763@YAHOO. COM,

Can you please visually check the harness from the back of the instrument cluster down to the the fuse box?

When you check at the back of the fuse board are the wires to the back of the fuses you are testing the correct colors?

Sounds like you may have broken wiring here.

From the diagram there is no connection in between these points.

Regards, Joe
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 5:13 PM
Tiny
RAJ42763
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Doesn't the wiring for the instrument cluster go through the SMJ connector first before the fuse box.
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 6:04 PM

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