Engine starter not working?

Tiny
COUNTRYCHEF66
  • MEMBER
  • 2014 FORD ESCAPE
  • 1.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • TURBO
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
My wife was driving, doing errands, when she first started the car ran fine with a message of hill assist disabled. We started the car again still running fine there was an additional message, that read 4 wheel drive turned off. Then she went to start the car again, Ang then wouldn't turn over. The next morning I was able to jump start it. Then we're messages of hot engine. And low cooliant, and no power and misfiring like crazy.
Tuesday, September 3rd, 2019 AT 6:10 AM

50 Replies

Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,139 POSTS
These engines are known for coolant leaks, but you may have a battery/charging system issue as well. You can start with a general visual inspection for coolant leaks especially at the rear of the cylinder head and also the battery terminals as they are known to corrode quite fast. After inspection the codes will need to be retrieved with a scanner in order to perform necessary pinpoint tests to verify the system and component/s causing your issue. I included an illustrated diagram for you of the known problem areas.

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.
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Tuesday, September 3rd, 2019 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
DAVID WHITE2
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2012 FORD ESCAPE
  • 73,000 MILES
When I turn the key on all the lights are very bright until I try to start it just clicks an the lights go dim.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Make sure the battery has a full charge and battery connections are all good.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WELLS_MAN
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
  • 2009 FORD ESCAPE
  • 82,000 MILES
When turning key but there is a constant clicking sound from under the dash thought battery bad but changed it out, believe it may be a security issue don, t hear the door chimes either also on the dash is a lock that is locked, don, t know if this is right till it starts or not, have not had the car just a few months
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Did you try another key? It has a chip inside the key.

Roy
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WELLS_MAN
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Only have one key for it thanks Tom
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
I think the clicking is from some of the relays that are energized under the dash.
Anyway, it may be a starter motor failure. You need some help from a shop to confirm.
Did you get any warranty with this purchase?

Roy
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAMMY393
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2009 FORD ESCAPE
  • 110,000 MILES
Hi. My car wont start.I used it last on monday and parked it outside for five days. Today being saturday, I tried to start it to no avail. Wat do I do.I bought this car only in september dis year. Pls help.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Is the battery dead? How about some more info?

Roy
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAMMY393
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Yes I think its dead.
Its not starting and the battery light is on on the dash board.I am new with cars and dont know wat to do. The car has worked fine since.I have just been ill n couldnt go out to warm it since monday. Could the engine be knocked or wat? Wat do I do now. Pls help.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAMMY393
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Pls wat do I do if my battery is dead. I parked my car outside n didnt start it for five days.
Pls help.
Cheers
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CENSU
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2009 FORD ESCAPE
  • 3.2L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 186,000 MILES
Everything works in the car, all light are in good order, the only problem is when I turn the key to start position, nothing happen, no crank no start. Once an a while after 7 to 10 times might start. I have a new key and I tried it and it also failed. The only time it start every time is when I push the key unit inward and turn the key at the same time to start position, it start no problem. My question is, what is happening (or creating) when I push the key unit head in that make the car to start? Am I improving grounding by pushing the key inward? If so how can it be fixed? Thanks in advance Vince.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,702 POSTS
Hello,

This happens when the ignition switch is ou. here is how you can change it out in the diagrams below. This guide can help as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROB MILLER
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 2008 FORD ESCAPE
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
Vehicle listed above is the limited model 3.0 engine. Intermittent no start or crank, it will start fine then after a fifteen or twenty minute drive if I shut it off I usually have to wait twenty minutes or so for it to start but not every time? I have replaced everything that others have suggested from ignition switch to relay, I even had a remote start installed and still have the problem. It runs and drives great once it starts. About to the end of my rope with it so any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,772 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

What you are describing sounds like a bad crankshaft position sensor. When they start going bad, they are affected by heat. Take a look through these three links. The first describes what the sensor does. The second discusses symptoms and the third discusses in general how one is replaced. Now, when I suspect a bad sensor (which may or may not set the check engine light to come on) I use a live data scanner. If the sensor fails, you will lose the engine RPM signal to the scanner.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

____________________________________

You can also check the sensor for resistance. Here is how it's done. Additionally, here are a couple links to help you check the resistance:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

__________________________________

CKP SENSOR RESISTANCE

- Ignition OFF.

- Measure the resistance between:

Pic 1

Is the resistance between 0.25K - 1K ohms? If not, replace the sensor.

______________________________________________________________________________________

If you find this is the problem, here are the directions specific to your vehicle for replacement.

REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT
CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR

Pic 2

Removal and Installation
1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
2. Remove the 5 bolts and the RH splash shield.
- To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).

pic 3

3. Disconnect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor electrical connector.
4. Remove the bolt and the CKP.
- To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Inspect the O-ring seal and install new as necessary.

5. NOTE: Lubricate the CKP O-ring seal with clean engine oil.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

_______________________________________________________

I hope this is helpful. Let me know if you have additional questions or need help.

Take care,
Joe
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+1
Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROB MILLER
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Hey thank you Joe, I'm replacing the sensor right now, I was going to check it, but it does not fail until it's hot or whenever it wants, lol. I will drive it after I install and see if it helps. I will let you know a little later. Thanks again
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,772 POSTS
Welcome back:

Well, I hope you are driving and it still hasn't stalled. Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROB MILLER
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
It never does stall, just will not start or crank, when you turn the key all lights come on as normal but that's it, and I misunderstood what you were telling me to change and I changed the camshaft position sensor, lol. So I also changed the crankshaft sensor as well. I'm going to drive it tomorrow and see if it changes anything. I will keep you informed. Thanks again
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROB MILLER
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Well that didn't work. What's the chance it could be the PCM? I wish it would just throw a code so I would know for sure what it is.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GOKEY GYURI
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 2008 FORD ESCAPE
  • 2.3L
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 60,000 MILES
PATS led flashing.
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Wednesday, August 19th, 2020 AT 7:12 PM (Merged)

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