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Engine Lack of power?

Tiny
PHILLIP CRITES
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 FORD ESCAPE
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 13,000 MILES
When pull in drive it acts like has no power to go forward same in revs have in stalled new fuel filter, also changed transmission solenoid assembly. It acts like lack of power like only hitting on two or three pistons.
Monday, May 29th, 2017 AT 3:30 PM

48 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge. start there first. could be low fuel pressure misfire etc. See link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Tuesday, May 30th, 2017 AT 6:09 AM
Tiny
PHILLIP CRITES
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Check fuel pressure is fine. Check for codes codes come up P0752. That is all, puzzled.
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Tuesday, May 30th, 2017 AT 9:08 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
There is no code 752 check battery for condition including load test.
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Tuesday, May 30th, 2017 AT 9:30 AM
Tiny
PHILLIP CRITES
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Have installed new battery and the code is P0752 say open (A solenoid )in transmission but have replaced that its a shift solenoid that was per auto zone but still same problem I know I must be over looking something simple. My wife says buy new car help me not have more car payments. Lol also drop fuel tank and checked for trash but very clean no dirt or rust trash. Lost on what to do
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Tuesday, May 30th, 2017 AT 10:46 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
The code you gave me does not exist it's code 753 not 2 make sure you give us the correct codes. Have amechanic look at this because the solenoid is not getting battery voltage for one and it may be a connection or short causing this. This has to be checked with a pro scanner
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Wednesday, May 31st, 2017 AT 6:37 AM
Tiny
MICHELOB3232
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2005 FORD ESCAPE
  • 210,000 MILES
My sons car will start and run fine at idle. As soon as you shift into drive it will bog down and stop running. Would this be the transmission sensor? Doesn't sound like the fuel pump bc it runs at idle? Any advice? Also, there is an input sensor and output sensor for this car, which would it be or would it be best just to replace both? Thanks for any help.
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
You should start with checking for trouble codes instead of guessing what could be wrong. There are so many possibilities and if trouble codes are present, they would tell you which circuit has a fault.

It could be the engine that has problem instead of the transmission.
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MICHELOB3232
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I am going to take your advice and have him get the car down to a local Autozone for a diagnostic scan. As you read through the symptoms would you think we could rule out the fuel pump? I would think if it were the fuel pump it would have a hard time running at all?
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Right, this don't seem to be a fuel pump problem.

It could be the engine idling speed is too low.
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AL0792
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 FORD ESCAPE
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 88,000 MILES
I have a 2005 ford escape and today I noticed that that when I press on the gas my car seems not to have get up and go. I noticed that My PRMs go to about 4 rpms but as soon as I take my foot of the gas peddle it drops down to about 2 rpms. It feels like the car has no power and if I go above 50 it feels like the car is sound like it is struggling. When I try to go up a hill I loose all power. Anyone have a suggestion to what could be the problem?
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
If the transmission is not slipping-see below:

Possibilities: Inspect and test all the following listed below:

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard it.
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SHAWN67
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2004 FORD ESCAPE
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
My 04 escape struggles to reach 30 mph. Trouble code for tps sensor low input, I changed tps sensor, cleaned IAC valve and cleaned throttle body. Nothing changed. Also fairly low idle. Any help appreciated.
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 12:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Rescan for code as it may be a shorted wire or another sensor causing problem. Check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. Send us the dtc but it may be another problem
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 12:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SHAWN67
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The DTC was po122. TP sensor low circuit. The check engine light has'nt come back on yet as I unhooked the battery when I changed tps sensor.I'll try and get a fuel pressure gauge this afternoon. It was loaned out at the auto parts store when I checked. Thanks!
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 12:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Disconnecting the battery will not make the code go away it just stored into the computer. Unless you have a scanner is the only way to erase it. Is this an electronic throttle control? It makes a difference it may need a programming reflash but need to know what type of throttle it is
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 12:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SHAWN67
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Trouble codes are p1120, po113, po511, po403. Fuel pressure is fine. Seems to be a hissing at the egr valve when idling. Included is a picture of throttle body are. Advice appreciated.
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 12:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
For 113 check iat and or maf sensor for resistance see pics on where. Check for a vacuum leak or cracks around egr or bad gasket. Make sure it's cleaned out as well as sometimes they clog. Need to know if it 's electric or vacuum though. For 511 check idle air control valve for plugging and or pintle sticking. Best to clean this and throttle plate on both sides with choke cleaner. For 1120 by cleaning throttle plate may take that code away. Also check for a cracked intake manifold at egr if it's plastic.
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 12:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LEODAJIM
  • MEMBER
  • 25 POSTS
  • 2004 FORD ESCAPE
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 95,000 MILES
I have recently noticed a lack of power when I try to accelerate, along with a blowing noise, like a 'shhhhhh.'. This noise is only heard when I push the gas pedal.
When I started the engine cold, I looked under the hood and under the vehicle for a leak somewhere, and I could see exhaust steam coming from under the engine. I am assuming there is an exhaust leak at or right around the manifold area. Am I correct to assume this is where I am losing power due to lost compression, and where I am hearing the loud 'whooshing' sound when I push on the gas? It seems the sound is right behind my dash/firewall, so that would put it right at the manifold area.
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 12:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Do you have a check engine light on
and if so check for code s
Suspect exhaust flex pipe
check with your local exhaust repair shop
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 12:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LEODAJIM
  • MEMBER
  • 25 POSTS
Thats the wierd part, no light.
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 12:26 PM (Merged)

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