Car turns over but won't start?

Hello,

It does sounds like the fuel pump when out can you hear it running in the tank with the key on?

Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when changing the pump out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Here is how it will be for your car (below) you can find the pump on Amazon for about $140.00 so the rest will be labor.

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers

That code deals with the fuel system circuit. Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you first turn the key? Have you checked fuel pump pressure? I have no idea why that would come up based on what you did. Try switch the fuel pump relay with another one with the same part number. Also, let me know if both fuel and spark are missing to the engine. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

There is a list of things this code relates to. All of them point to no power to the fuel pump.

Here is what I need you to do. Remove the fuel pump relay from the relay box and disconnect the PCM wiring harness. Check for corrosion on PCM connection. If nothing is found, check the resistance between PCM harness and relay harness. If there is less than 5 ohms, special test equipment is needed to continue the circuit. There is an open circuit on the system. If there is more repair wiring or pins.

Here is a list of possible causes for this code:

Open circuit between fuel pump and fuel pump power circuit
Poor fuel pump ground
Fuel pump internal open
Fuel pump secondary circuit shorted.
Fuel pump relay contacts always closed
Open between PCM and fuel pump circuit

I attached wiring schematics for both the 2.0L and the 3.0L. NOTE: The first one is the 2.0

Let me know what you find. Sorry it took long to get back to you. I had to do a lot of reading on this one.

Check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge designed for your fuel system and comeback with the readings this is where we start-

Or do below and tell me what happened-let me know asap

Get a starting fluid or ether and spray into the carb or the throttle body on an EFI. Did it start and die? If not disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

P0232 Engine Fuel Pump ckt

The fuel pump secondary control circuit deals with the fuel pump driver module (another word for computer) which is use to regulate the fuel pump pressure. By using a fuel sensor located in the fuel rail, the engine computer can regulate the fuel pump pressure by monitoring the fuel pump duty cycle. Using this duty cycle range, the computer can determine when to shut off or increase the fuel pressure for optimum engine performance. Therefore, if the duty cycle is below or higher than the targetted range, it will set a code like the above or a code related to the fuel pump secondary control circuit which could have an errant reading. When this happens, the fuel pump driver module will set at a default usually set at 100 % duty cycle. For basic test, check connections of the wirings/grounds related to this circuit by using ATS wiring diagram.

Notes about your fuel injector circuits compared to your fuel pump:

When injectors operate, it pulse or open/close quickly and are monitored in terms of milliseconds beside having a changeable duty cycle. The flow rates for injectors are calculated when they are in a stationary condition which means the injectors are held open all the time. (This is condition is called as a 100% duty cycle). When checking high performance engines, most injectors works best when they are flowing at a 70% to 90% duty cycle. This means that they run 70% to 90% of the static flow rating as specified. In essence, using an injector with this parameter can help decrease heat generated within the motor windings of the injector which lead to premature failure.

NOTE: duty cycle means how much fuel is delivered and also by how long the injector is energized by the computer driver circuit inside the engine computer.

Finally, injectors can also be categorized by their resistance to the electromagnetic force which opens the coil inside the injector body. Such resistance (in ohms) is also called impedance. If you have high impedance injectors, it rates at 12 to 16 ohms while low impedance injectors rates at 2 to 5 ohms. If your injector resistance is not vwithin this range, the injector is defective.

I asked for the location of the fuel pump and you didn't tell me that.

1. The fuel pump is in the fuel tank

I also asked about the open/closed loop and you didn't address that eit

2. The coolant temperature and the oxygen sensors controls the closed and open loop-when the engine is cold the CTS controls fuel demand till it reaches a given temperature and switches to closed loop at which time O2 sensor controls the fuel demand. Have these sensors checked out

Possible causes include a bad O2 sensor, excessive fuel pressure (bad fuel pressure regulator or plugged return line), leaky fuel injectors, dirty air filter or restricted air inlet, or a defective coolant sensor that prevents the engine management system from going into closed loop mode

Hi la1528 and TY for the donation

Double check the battery and connection if okay. Check the starter could be the overrunning clutch slipping if not check the fuel pressure to make sure its within specs and for injection pulses.

There is spark and fuel: what's left here now is verify that the valve and ignition timing is correct. You can have fuel and spark if the valve and ignition timing is off she won't start, wrong firing sequence.

How could timing be off? Bad tps? This has nothing to do with your problem -The problem is cranking

If you're so sure that the battery and connectiions are good -Drop the starter and get it load tested.

Camshaft/s not turning sound like the timing belt is stripped doing that

Hi there,

Thank you for the donation,

modern electronics and water just do not mix, I feel that you will have to get a diagnostic scan done to see what has not reacted well with getting wet, do you have spark? Can you feel the injectors clicking? Do you have fuel pressure? All these will have to be checked first, a scan will be your best first option.

Mark (mhpautos)

Yes, I woulds remove spark plugs and clean as they may be fuel fouled and remove all leads and dry ends, try this.

Mark (MHPAUTOS)