Engine misfire why?

Tiny
RAUDENBUSH
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1997 FORD F-150
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 276,000 MILES
I have a 1997 ford f150 with 4.6 v8, and keep getting a misfire no matter what I do, I have put fuel injector cleaner in, changed the plugs, changed the wires, changed the corresponding coil pack to the misfiring cylinders (2 and 4), I tried the screwdriver to the ear trick to make sure the injectors were clicking which they were, I am stumped at this point and would like my fuel mileage to be at a normal rate
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHNNYT73
  • MECHANIC
  • 924 POSTS
Have you checked for a vacuum leak somewhere around the intake? These intakes are also know for leaking coolant down into the spark plug holes. Check out these guides

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

You will have to scan it for codes to see if anything like a sensor has gone out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

I would do a full tune up with coils this guide should help and check out the video below it.

https://youtu.be/e68QXyBAiZo

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RAUDENBUSH
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Haven't heard any whistling from a vacuum leak, and I have suspicion of the intake manifold gasket leaking but is there a sure fire way to know?
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHNNYT73
  • MECHANIC
  • 924 POSTS
Get a can of throttle body cleaner. Spray around the intake. If the idle changes where you spray then you found your leak.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RAUDENBUSH
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I changed the intake manifold gaskets both lower and upper along with the throttle body gasket, the outcome was an even worse running motor, I have much less power than before and the valves float much more often, could sealing the leak at the gaskets have allowed another leak to arise? It's way beyond my knowledge, please any advice you have would be much appreciated
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+3
Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SHERICE FARIA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 FORD F-150
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 230,547 MILES
Ob2 says cylinder one misfire while l drive. How do you correct problem? How do you do a compression check on cylinders?
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Hello,

Here are a couple of guides to help you get going in the right direction:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Please let us know what happens so it will help others.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LEN75
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 FORD F-150
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
This ole truck is cursed, new plugs and wires, cleaned MAF, cleaned EGR valve, using higher octane fuel. But the slight miss comes and goes to the point where it’s unreliable. In the morning three miles is fine until it warms up and it will start to miss enough that the dummy light blinks. Please help me good mechanics. I could replace the MAF, and EGR. Which one is it?
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-1
Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JIS001
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,411 POSTS
A blinking check engine light is a severe misfire to damage the catalytic converter. That will definitely post a misfire code. Have a parts store scan your vehicle for trouble codes and post them on here to get a better idea as to what is going on? If you can get a scan reader here is a link on how to retrieve the codes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Let us know what codes come up please. From there we should be able to guide you to where to check for the fault.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JRAINES
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 171,000 MILES
Engine warm misses when started give it gas it stops what could it be? I replaced plugs, wires, distr. Cap, rotor buttom, idle control, mass air sensor, fuel filter
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Engine running rough or misfiring can be cause by a bad fuel injector. Check out these guides

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

You will have to scan it for codes to see if anything like a sensor has gone out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

I would do a full tune up with coils this guide should help and check out the video below it.

https://youtu.be/e68QXyBAiZo

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AARON765101
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 FORD F-150
  • 5.0L
  • 4WD
  • 185,000 MILES
Front engine seal leaking which seems to cause all cylinders to misfire.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
It is unlikely that an oil leak would cause all the cylinders to misfire so we need to confirm all cylinders are misfiring using these guides below.

https://youtu.be/QTE8k06MzwQ

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Do you have misfire codes for all the cylinders? If not, do you have any codes?

Let's start with this info because this will determine the best course of action. The only way I can see that an oil leak would cause this is if it were leaking on an ignition component like a coil that is causing it to fail.

Let me know about this info and we can go from there. Thanks
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JVM1978
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1992 FORD F-150
  • 4.9L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,413 MILES
I need help diagnosis of obd1 port. Customer has changed plugs, wires, coil, distributor, idle air control valve, fuel pressure regulator, map sensor.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Hi JVM,

I need you to clarify the misfire a little bit. Does it run rough or is it just setting a check engine light for a misfire? Meaning does it appear to be an actual mis or does the computer just think it is? Can you feel it?

Next, we need to check base engine operation. That means compression, spark, and fuel delivery.

Next we need to define when it is misfiring. Does it do it at idle, under load, or in all conditions? Does it every smooth out?

Here are a couple of resources to read through when figuring this out. Once you get this information and if you still can't figure it out, let me know what your findings are and we can go from there.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-vibration-at-idle
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGDADDYINGA
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 1990 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 102,501 MILES
I have a 5.0 1990. It started having a bad miss about 6 months ago. I changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil with no change.

What it does is when starting cold it seems to run OK. I can start off and after about a mile to mile and half it then seems to start have a miss almost like a dead cylinder or something. It does not miss under full pedal and also if I keep the rpm above 2200-2400. It has now started to spark knock a little and lose power when going up hill even with the RPM up.

I thought it may be the trans as it seems to miss or maybe it was the converter bumping or something as it seemed to happen when the trans would go into OD.

I took to trans shop and they said the trans seemed fine but it had a miss.

Someone said maybe a ignition module or something.

In a nut shell if you are going down road after warmed up when it goes into OD with any kind of pull at all it starts a bad missing/jumping like motion. Only does this under load. Even when warm it runs smooth (mostly as it does have alot of miles). Is has a slight miss when reving up up but the bad miss is when driving under load, makes the truck actually bouch like with real bad vibration like in motor/trans area.

It has to be something that changes after warming up.

Any ideas?
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Is the check engine light on? Or has it been on? 02 sensors, egr come online after warm up, PCM is in closed loop, and runs rich during warm up, 02 sensor info is not used, and egr is closed in closed loop, check thos 2 out. Also look for vacuum leaks, get a can of spray throttle body cleaner, and spray around vacuum hoses and the intake manifold, if idle changes, you found a leak.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGDADDYINGA
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Merlin2021,

The check engine light has not been on. Is there an easy check for the 02 sensors-egr-PCM. I know what you mean looking for vacume leaks. This has got to be something simple but finding it my not be.

Thank you.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Try unplugging the 02 sensor, this will make the ECM use a mid value, and may smooth out engine, if it does, you just replace the 02. If not let me know and we will test the ecm.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGDADDYINGA
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Merlin2021,

I unplugged the 02 sensor with no change. I did find a vacuum leak yesterday that I fixed but it had no effect.

The motor starts good, idles smooth, takes gas well no bogging or missing. The only time there is a problem is when the truck is going at speed for the trans to go into OD and the converter locks up, it then has a vibration almost like a drive-shaft, when it comes back out of od or at high rpm in od it does not seems to did it nearly as bad.

The trans guys told me twice the trans is fine, but with it only doing this when it goes into OD at a low RPM and when you start giving more gas it then either misses or something is virbating, I had a van that would sometimes kill a plug and with the dead cylinder it also feels the same.

I know this is long winded but this is driving me crazy. I don't have the money for a complete shop check out so I have to try to do it myself.

I appreciate your help very much.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)

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