Engine misfire why?

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Stan:
With that low of mileage, it isn't common. However, the modules do have some history of problems. Have you ever replaced the spark plugs? It may help. Also, make sure there is nothing arching as a result of a bad wire. Check it at night when it's dark and easier to see sparking.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JTBMUGABI
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  • 2 POSTS
I will change the spark plugs and check the wires in the dark, great help, thanks, runs great now.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACKNUT
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD F-150
  • 3.7L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 165,000 MILES
I have a skip if I put engine under a load. Doesn't happen all the time. Also skips worse when A/C is on. No engine light on, idles fine and drives fine. But if I step on gas pedal a little harder than normal driving it will skip. This also happens sometimes with normal driving. But definitely when I put a load on engine.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:15 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

The most common issue for this is the spark plugs. The gap gets too wide from wear and ends up with a weak spark.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-spark-plugs

Also, it could be dirty injectors as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

What recent work has been done?

Roy
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:15 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACKNUT
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
I got a new set of coils that did it, runs great once again.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:15 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LISA B BUMPASS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 FORD F-150
  • V6
  • 243,556 MILES
Truck skipping and popping after plugs and wires changed.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:15 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi:

Either the wires were put on in the wrong order, or the plug gap was closed when installed.

check out these guides

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

You will have to scan it for codes to see if anything like a sensor has gone out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

I would do a full tune up with coils this guide should help and check out the video below it.

https://youtu.be/e68QXyBAiZo

Please run down these guides and report back.

I attached a picture below. It shows the firing order and where each plug wire starts at the coil pack and which cylinder it goes to. Confirm they are correct.

Next, if that doesn't help, pull diagnostic trouble codes to see which cylinders are misfiring. If the wires are correct, then pull the plugs on the affected cylinders and check them.

One other thought, make sure the plug wires are properly routed. They can melt if against the exhaust manifold and that will cause a misfire as well.

Let me know if this helps and what you find.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:15 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FSJR67
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 184,000 MILES
Vehicle was and has ran perfect. Alternator went out, I was selling vehicle and buyer said he wanted it with faulty alternator, put alternator back on and when we first turned the engine over it backfired and smoke came from the engine compartment. Was no fire but when we started engine back up it revs to 2500 rpm(without missing)then when it goes to idle it backfires and misses horribly.(Makes sounds like it is firing in the crankcase)i bought a code reader and replaced the alternator but it still does same thing. It came up with code p0102.I replaced mass air flow sensor with new one and it still does same. When you start it it starts perfectly but as soon as the rpm comes down from 2500 it goes to about 500 and misses, backfires and most of the time stalls.I can give it fuel and it revs back up to 2500 then goes back to 500. It only misses and backfires when it it at idle. The vehicle cant be driven because it wont hold any rpms.I have also cleared codes a couple of times.I lastly unhooked battery and left off for 6 days then went and hooked it back up and vehicle done the same again, so here we are.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
EDDELGADO
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  • 1 POST
I have the same truck and have had the same problem. If you look at the left side of the engine you will find the PCV valve feeds some black vacuum lines and tubing. The line snakes around to the back of the passenger side of the intake manifold into a black 90 degree rubber fitting. It plugs into a 5/8" vacuum nipple on the back of the manifold. You will have to feel for it as you cannot see it from the front. This black elbow will crack and will cause a very large vacuum leak.

In my truck I removed this rear line and capped of the rear vacuum plug. I left the PCV valve feeding to the front line. If you have the original setup you can just get that rear elbow from Ford. I am sure it is a commonly replaced part.

Ed
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRISK
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 1998 FORD F-150
As noted above, I have a misfire on 4 and 8. When it first happened I replaced all the plugs (60,000km since last plug/wire replacement). Misfire still occurred. I took it to a mechanic (he told me it was 4 and 8 that were misfiring), and suddenly it started running fine and he was unable to diagnose the problem. 1000km later it misfires again, so I replaced the wires, and now it is still misfiring. (A note about those 1000km, they all happened in one day, the day following the testing)

So 3 questions-

1. Where should I look next?
2. Is there an inexpensive method of testing I can use that will allow me to eliminate electronics and look at the fuel injector?
3. How much damage am I doing by running it on misfire (I need it to work)

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or advice you can give.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BACKYARDMECHANIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 337 POSTS
Misfires are tough to find and but not impossible if you put some time into it. A misfire can be caused by a ignition problem, fuel problem or a compression problem. You have already narrow it down to cylinder #4 and #8. You also have elimated the plugs and wires so far. I would also at least inspect the cap and rotor. If the car is equipped with coil packs test the coils resistance for #4 and # 8 . Other causes can be fuel related, a vacuum leak or a compression problem. Next check the car for a vacuum leak with a valcuum gauge. It should be between 17-22 steady. Dirty or clogged injectors can cause a lean mixture and cause a misfire. A weak or fautly injector can also cause the same thing. You can add fuel injector cleaner and see if the problem goes away. You can test the suspected cylinders by checking the resistance of the injectors with a ohm meter and see if they are with in specs. And the last thing is compression. Check the engine with a compression gauge and make sure the readings are with in specs. :) Good luck
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
If 4 and 8 share a coil pack replace it. Ive seen many coils and injectors go bad in those trucks. But if they share a coil it should take care of the problem
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRISK
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Great, thank you guys. :)

Does it make sense that occasionally it would run ok if the problem were a coil pack, or an electrical problem in general? The other day it ran great for a few km and then out again.

Editing the post to say I just checked for spark, and I have spark on all 8 cylinders (method I used - insert old spark plug into wire, ground to the engine and turn over). Does this mean I should look into the fuel system as the problem, or should I start to check the resitance at the coil pack (Learning all this by reading the Haynes manual), or replace the coil pack altogether?

Lots of questions, I know. Sorry.

Thanks for your time.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Yescoils can intermittently short out.I have seen both coils and injectors create misses in Fords. The odds of two injectors on opposing sides going out is slim. If 4 nad 8 share a coil try that first. Alot of what we do is trial and error, seen this many times.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRISK
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thank you. I will try that this weekend, then. :)
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRISK
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
So, in the end, reluctant to spend any more $$ on an unsure bet, I bought a Ohmmeter and consulted my Haynes manual.

I tested both my coils - they were fine.

I tested all my injectors, and one was bad, so I replaced it, and now the truck runs fine.

I'm somewhat impressed that I was able to fix this problem, and also somewhat surprised that, after educating myself, it took less than 30 minutes for me to diagnose the problem.

I'm more than a little dissappointed in the garage that charged me 3 hours of labour in an attempt to diagnose the problem. If it took me 30 minutes to figure it out once I knew how to look for a problem, at the least it should have taken them the same amount of time?

I can't be certain of the original diagnosis - they said I had a misfire on 4 and 8, and they checked it after I changed the plugs. I replaced the injector on #8, so that part of the diagnosis was correct, and I can only assume that when I changed the wires after they looked at it, that doing so fixed #4.

Well anyway, I fixed it, and I did it myself. Not bad for a carpenter. Thanks again for your help - I'll be sure to recommend this site to my friends.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BACKYARDMECHANIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 337 POSTS
Glad to see you fiix it yourself. :D
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MARTINROBERTCAIRNS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1998 FORD F-150
  • 170,000 MILES
I have a 98 f150 2 wheel drive standard with a 4.6 the engine has a miss and when I put it on the scanner it comes up with a miss on cyl#4 I have replaced the fuel injector the plug the wires and the coils on the engine but it still has a miss. I have checked for vacuum leaks and found none. I am at a lose as to what else it could be. Can you help me please?
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Check its compression to see if it varies with other cylinders. check out these guides

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

You will have to scan it for codes to see if anything like a sensor has gone out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

I would do a full tune up with coils this guide should help and check out the video below it.

https://youtu.be/e68QXyBAiZo

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MARTINROBERTCAIRNS
  • MEMBER
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I did a coil change out that took care of the problem.
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Monday, May 10th, 2021 AT 11:17 AM (Merged)

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