Loss power, code p0335

Hello and welcome to 2CarPros.

When you changed the crankshaft position sensor, did you happen to clear the codes or unhook the battery for a while? It's possible that the computer needs to go through a relearn procedure. The best way to get it to do so is to simply disconnect the battery for maybe fifteen minutes with the headlight switch turned on (helps drain residual power in the system quickly). Then connect the battery, turn the lights off, and start the car and let it idle for a while. It may stall or not want to idle correctly for a while, but should eventually smooth out as the computer gets acclimated to the sensors and other such things. So if you haven't done that yet, then give it a try.

Also, did you do any diagnostic testing before replacing the sensor (such as checking the wiring for shorts, etc)? I ask because a short circuit or misadjusted sensor can also cause the p0335 code. I'm going to attach AllData's instructions on diagnosing the p0335 code in the images below. Go through it and do any tests that you haven't already done. As a matter of fact, I'd suggest just doing all of it, even if you've already done some of it. It never hurts to recheck your own work.

If, after going through the procedures listed by AllData, you still have the code and symptoms, it may be that it's simply time to have the timing set replaced (timing belt, gears, guides, etc). This is normal maintenance. Hyundai calls for replacing the timing belt every 40,000 miles. If it hasn't ever been done, then go ahead and get it done ASAP. Failing to do so can cause catastrophic damage to the engine, requiring either rebuilding or replacing the engine;

I understand if you don't have all of the tools needed to go completely through AllData's diagnostic procedure (most people don't have them) so do what you can. If you can borrow an oscilloscope and/or a high end scanner with live data modes and such, then do so.

How a timing belt works: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-timing-belt-works

Here's a nice little article on timing belts in interference engines (like yours): https://jalopnik.com/heres-what-happens-when-your-timing-belt-snaps-and-how-1643804882

Good luck and let us know what you find. We'll go from there.

Thank you for your help. I disconnect negative battery terminal before change sensor and after that everything restart. My question is, if it's a timing problem why it shows randomly and from one start shut off to next? I want to know could my procedure of bleeding include cranking too long about ten times damage something else? Because i smell some burnt from engine after bleeding. In my opinion it has an electrical problem somewhere. how can i check for that?

For update i measure voltage between terminal 2 and chassis with ignition on and engine off. It was 4.96 without ecm disconnect. Should i disconnect ecm? Where is it connector? manual saya it has to be 0 volt. So am i have a probelem? If yes how can i fix it?

It seems problem is some where else and i can't find it.i will be soo much pleasure if some one can help.what could happen between a engine shut off and start to run better

Again, have you run through the diagnostic process for the p0335 code. To answer your last question, a lot of things can happen that'll make the engine run better after a shut off and restart. Mostly they involve wires and weak grounds.

You could be looking at a fuel flow issue (weak pump that is sometimes better than others or maybe a clogged filter). Honestly, I think that your problem is in that p0335 code. Go through that diagnostic.

Also, again, if the car hasn't had that timing set, get it done fast before you have pistons smashing into valves because of a broken timing belt and requiring expensive repairs.

I did diagnostic and find nothing wrong but can't do it completely because of hard access to ECM. My fuel filter is new and i don't think fuel pump is problem because i replace it. timing belt replaced a few miles ago. i will update whatever happens.
Just for mention my long fuel trim is about 3%rich for both banks.

Hmm okay, I'm going to see if I can get another expert to look away what's going on here. Fresh eyes might see something that we're overlooking.

Thank you a lot. Just in case I measure resistance between pin 2 and 3 and it shows me 35 mega ohm and some time infinite resistance. Is it normal?

Yes that does sound normal. I would clear the codes and then service the throttle actuator because the car sounds like it is going into limp mode. here is a guide that will help you fix the problem. The coking in the actuator causes a correlation issue putting the car into limp mode.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/reduced-power-limp-mode

and

https://youtu.be/ahK_eucFi-k

Please run down this guide and report back.

Thanks for your help. I recently clean my throttle body completely and also TPS and idle air control valve. so what's the others options?

So problem found finally. It was wrong spark plug order. I mean plugs number 3 and 6 were in wrong place. Now i am worry about any damage caused by this because I drove it for about six hundred miles.

Great! I'm glad that you got it figured out. I wouldn't worry about damage though. If the was any, it would be readily apparent.

Thanks for all the help.

car will not accelerate to more than twenty mph without revving past sixty mph.

scan for codes, I am assuming engine is revving and not moving very well. if you can check transmission fluid it may be wise for a transmission professional to scan this for codes. it kind of sounds like a serious transmission problem.

Thank you for all your help. It was a serious problem. Seems the transmission was not the best size for the engine. Since the car was used we are not sure if it came from the dealer or if someone changed it out through the years.

Please use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help and tell a friend.

Best, Ken

Ok well as bad as it sounds, I don't think it is. The car runs fine until this starts happening but then it won't stop til you are at your destination. It usually starts when I hit a bump or have been driving for over 20 minutes. What I mean by shuddering and jumping is basically the car seems like it starts to hesitate, no not like its misfiring, but more so like someone is letting off the gas and punching it again really fast. What I really don't get is sometimes I will put the clutch in to stop at a red light and the engine just stalls out however 90% of the time, the engine acts 100% fine. Another thing its doing is when driving down the highway or down any road for that matter, I will let off the gas to just maintain speed and my check engine light comes on while the engine is decreasing speed. Now...the car basically felt like it stalled but the car is still running....however in order to get going again I have to basically press, well not basically I do have to press the accelerator all the way to the floor and then boom the car basically jumps back to life and the check engine light goes off....The last piece of information I can think to give you is sometimes when its acting really bad I have popped the hood before turning the car off to take a look around the engine bay...MY first thought was it could be a loose ground somewhere, however that doesn't seem to be the case on the top of the engine anyways, battery, and IM. But the catch here is sometimes when I goto shut the hood...as I do so, it stalls the car out from the hood shutting..................weird huh?

Hopefully someone can give me some insight to this as I am completely stumped and can't seem to figure out whats wrong, think it could be a ground on the underside, think there is one near the tranny? Not quite sure honestly. Checked the spark plugs but they are brand new thanks to bluegtv6 and the wires are brand new as well from NGK. However the coil i believe is still stock.

I am running in a 03 i4 turbo (System Upgrade Turbo Kit Stage 2) just to let you know but I have a feeling my mods have nothing to do with the problem on hand here.

Thanks for the help in advance,

Tim

Tim:

It does sound electrical based on the fact that it shuts when you close the hood. Have you checked the battery terminals? The one going to the engine block? If these seem okay I would replace the battery because it sounds like you could have an intermittent internal short.

Here are to guides to help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

Have you had the computer scanned since the check engine light has come on?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers

Yes I have but never with any codes. Its like the CEL only comes on because the car basically feels turned off while deceleration til you punch the gas and then it basically feels like it kicks back into great and resumes as normal.

This is sounds more like a crankshaft sensor. Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Here is the sensor location for your car.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.

Cheers

I went out to check what I could of your ideas to fix this and I was under the hood checking pretty much everything I could from the alternator wires to the maf sensor to the IM ground to the battery ground...couldnt find the engine block ground...figured its on the bottom end somewhere....but when I went to start the ar to listen to it run and maybe figure something out that way...

I turned the key into the on position and the radio came on like normal....but only for 2 seconds, then it went off for a second then back on for 2 then off for 1 then back on for 2 then off for 1...you get the idea...So now I am worried that its electrical....So I took it the the shop and they replaced the crankshaft sensor for $240.00 all fixed I wish I did it myself DOH.

A few days ago i was driving my car and noticed that it lost power as I was pushing on the gas it would rev and didn't have power. It eventually kicked back and kept going but then would buck hard. Last night driving the car it lost power and died. It took a couple times to get it to start back up and then made it to my destination. The car just randomly dies while driving. Doesn't matter what speed I'm going. It also dies just sitting on idle. Sometimes if you turn the key it'll turn on and then just die right away. I turned the key all the way off and then sat for a second and turned it back on and it worked but still bucked and lost power again. In a 16 mile drive to work it dies/loses power at least 3-4 times. Do you have ANY idea what could possibly be going on or wrong with my car? Please!

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge first.

I have an 06 hyundai tiburon 2.7 v6 my problem started after driving my car around 100 miles doing about 70 to 85 mph got home park it next day the car started shocking like if fuel was getting cut from the engine i will leave the gas pedal in a position that will do 50 mph and it will run about 10 sec later it will shock like mention before and from no were will get a punch from like if i step on the gas pedal all the way down. I replace the fuel filter thinking that was the issue, do to it happened ones before but now the car will not go pass 3500 rpm on idle is smooth after you rev it is like the car shocks

Have your computer scanned for codes and post the codes here for further assistance.
(I would name a few things that i think might need checking but without the codes I could send you in the wrong direction.)

2001 tiburon 4 cyl 5spd. The car idols poorly and when u come to a stop sometimes it will stall out. Then when u accelerate the car will sometimes start bucking or will act as if it isnt getting any fuel then as u push the accelerator down again it will speed up. I checked the code and its bringing up TPS sensor which i replaced then check engine light went out then came back on with the same code. Any ideas?\r\nChris
Dansville NY

Chris:
You may have gotten a bad sensor. Also, have you checked for vacuum leaks?

engine idles good but wants to stall under acceleration. it will rev under slow acceleration.

scan for codes adn check fuelpressure first

Engine Performance problem
2000 Hyundai Tiburon 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

engine is coughing, and running sluggish at idle.

Has the check engine light come on? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Have you checked fuel pump pressure?

I will be driving and as long as im accelerating it doesnt do it but if I try to maintain a speed the car gets slightly jumpy. Its like im slightly letting off the gas then quickly pressing it back down to that same pressure I originally had it at. Any ideas,theres no check engine light on

does anyone know what this might be. Could it be the iac or is it a sac on my engine 2.0L

Check for codes .there may be a pending code

i did and oriellys couldn't find a code on it

At this point there isn't a lot to go off of. I would want to start checking data stream on a scanner. And check fuel pressure. This might be better of having a diagnostic shop check this

wen i start the car it goes to 1 n then wen i press the gas it drops n bogs out wat is the prob

Has the check engine light come on? Have you checked for vacuum leaks or fuel pump pressure?