1994 Lincoln Town Car Stalls at Idle

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BARTBIRD7
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My 1994 Towncar has 150K miles. and has had a problem for a couple of years now that has progressed to me not driving it any longer. It used to stall after it had been running at high speeds for a while, and then came to a stop. There was a low whistling noise that came from under the hood all the while. The whistling noise continued to get louder, and the stalling became more regular. After I cranked it three weeks ago, the whistling sound was noticably 3x or so louder than it was when I parked it, the engine idled rough, and then cut out. I still drove it for another week, but parked it b/c as I slowed to stop, I had to shift it into neutral to keep it running, and if the rpms got too low whille I was making a turn, or whatever, it would cut out while rolling. Now it will crank, but will not idle. The engine will continue to run if I keep a little pressure on the accelerator, but otherwise it will not stay cranked. I replaced the fuel filter 3mos. ago, and again 3 weeks ago, in addition to replacing the air filter and the spark plugs. Is ther a Idle screw? idle pump? or idle motor? And why does it seem like the whistling noise(compression) is related to the problem? It performs well as long as my foot is on the gas. The whistle stops when accelerating.
Mar 24, 2006 at 4:19 AM
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PEPPERMRJ
  • ✓Experienced Mechanic
  • 1,158 POSTS
Could have a few problems.
I would start by looking for vacuum leaks. Check all the hoses fo proper attachment, cracks, gummy, etc.
The EGR valve could be sticking open. pull it off and clean it.
The is a IAC (idle air controll) valve. It is located on the throttle body. You can remove it, clean it, and it's port. Test it while you are at it.

Good luck and let us know. :)
Mar 24, 2006 at 8:44 AM
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BARTBIRD7
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it was a vacuum hose that had disconnected, probably duirn the ignition that day. I connected the vaccumm hose and it is back to running the way it used to. I hooked the computer to it and the EGR valve code came up. I'm guessing b/c, like you said, it is sticking open. I will try to replace or clean and see if the random stalling stops. I went to Pepe Boys and they said the charge would be $575 to change the EGR valve, and clean out the carbon deposits in the DFS system, and so on. I think I can do it for a little less myself. Is it difficult to replace the EGR valve? Do you think I could get away with just cleaning it real good? 8)
Apr 7, 2006 at 4:01 AM
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PEPPERMRJ
  • ✓Experienced Mechanic
  • 1,158 POSTS
Yup. I would try that first. The only cost will be a new gasket. Does it have a DPSE sensor? They can cause a EGR valve fault code also.

Good luck and let us know. :)
Apr 7, 2006 at 11:14 AM

Suggested Repair

Reconnect and inspect all vacuum hoses for cracks or poor attachment. Clean the EGR valve and replace its gasket before replacing the valve. Also check the DPSE sensor, which can set an EGR fault code, and clean and test the idle air control valve on the throttle body if the idle problem remains.

Conversation Summary

A 1994 Lincoln Town Car with 150,000 miles stalled after highway driving, made a whistling noise under the hood, and later would not idle unless the accelerator was held. The fuel filter, air filter, and spark plugs had already been replaced. The expert advised checking vacuum hoses, cleaning a possibly sticking EGR valve, and cleaning and testing the idle air control valve. The owner found a disconnected vacuum hose; reconnecting it restored the previous running condition, but a scan showed an EGR code. The expert recommended cleaning the EGR valve and replacing only the gasket first, and noted that a DPSE sensor can also cause an EGR fault code.

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