Intermitten no start

I had the exact same car with an intermittent no start issue. Mine ended up being the crankshaft position sensor.

Even though the car is a 1995, it is an OBD2 car. Which means that AutoZone and Advance auto can scan it for you. I would suggest getting it scanned and see what codes, if any, come up. The connector is in the fuse box, which is in the driver's door panel, on the end of the dash.

Pull the code(s) and let us know what you get. We will go from there.

HEYMAN1104!
I pulled the codes on the car. It ended being knock sensors banks 1 and 2.

Codes p0325 and p0330.

Nice! Since you have codes for both of them. I would run the following simple diagnostic procedure before replacing anything. It is rather unlikely that both sensors went bad at the same time. The procedure is in the attached images. Let us know what you get.

For some reason it will not let me reset the codes.

Disconnect one of the battery cables for a minute. Touch the disconnected terminal to the opposite terminal for at least ten seconds. This will ground out the residual energy in the electrical system and clear out the computer's memory. So the codes will clear.

Okay man, so here is the jist of it. bought the car it would stall occasionally but very rare and random. More when it was hot. The guys said it might be the igniter so i got a new refurbished one. Put it in ran fine for like a day then would not start. Usually when it stalled before i would tap igniter and it would start or tap by relay boxes. So i did take off battery terminal for a while. Codes reset. Have it running to wait for it to throw codes to see if the code is the same knock sensor or if it switch banks. Thanks for the help!

Okay, Keep us posted.

So i let the car idle until it shut off by itself. It took like one hour and thirty minutes to shut off. But the code thrown is now a p1300 igniter.

Thats with the original igniter.

No other codes .

Sounds like the igniter is getting hot and then quitting when it is hot. Leave the car off for a while and I would bet it will fire right up again. If you still have the new/refurbished igniter, stick it back in there and see what happens.

Okay, i will switch to new refurbished igniter and see if it throws any other codes. Let you know what codes pop up after the switch.

Well took battery off cleared all codes. Hooked up new igniter and its cut out alot fast then the last igniter. Within minutes. Car was just starting to get warm? How do you test coputer to igniter signal or ground. I have a feeling i only got the knock sensor codes from the igniter retar ding timing when failing. Isnit possible i got a bad igniter?

According to Toyota, testing for a bad igniter is done by checking for sparks. Here is the test that they suggest, attached in the images.

Go ahead and run that test. Personally, I suspect a problem with the ECM, as detailed in the knock sensor tests that I posted earlier. But it is possible that you just got a dud of an igniter too.

Heyman i know its been a while. I currently still have fixed the lexus. Thought it was computer then took it out look new no burnt spots or leaking capacitors. Put it back in started up fine ran for 10 minutes dies at gfas station lettingnit set i t est power on igniter otrs getting 12 volts all the other side is getting 12 volts. The front 3 coils are getting 12 volts. The front 3 coil packs all ohm out the same. I went to camshafts sensor in front unplug and there is oil in the plug try to ohm it out and wouldnt read nothing no continuity. Plug it backin start up car runs its running as we speak. Should i get new crankshaft sensor?

Let me know what you think please

Ok I retraced my work and did some more digging in Prodemand. Basically, it tells me that the igniter is the problem. However, there's a test if you're ready to dig in a little more. This will tell us if it's an ECM problem, or an igniter problem. Personally, I think it's in the igniters because you get different behaviors with each one.

So i test the igniter on the incoming and outgoing terminals all have 12v and then went to camshaft sensor unplugged terminal and it had oil all in it. So i cleaned and reinstalled and car ran. But got home wouldnt start again. Then checked the camshaft sensor again and full of oil again i order a new one today should have it by monday. Will update you after install and testing. Took out computer amd looked everyhthing look cherry.

I'm trying to think how the cam sensor would be getting oil on it. I'm thinking that there's a leaking seal on the sensor. So make sure that you get all of the old seal out of the hole and that the new one sets in nice and flush. Hopefully this solves your problem.

Thanks for the help man its much appreciated! Will let you know what happens.

It did not solve the problem unfortrunatly. Im so over this car but dont money for a new one already 300 dollares down trying to fix. Help me please this is so frustrating!!

Get a spark tester and when it's not starting, check for sparks on all cylinders. Here's the tester that I use: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501325755&sr=8-3&keywords=spark+tester

I know we're kind of stepping back here, but sometimes it's best to retrace your steps to see what was missed. Because clearly, we're missing something.

I just came out tried to start it with the igniter that was in it was hot to touch put old igniter back in that was cool setting inside my house for days. It fired right up. Is it safe to say its the igniter.

I bought it off ebay for 75 bucks and i look on rockauto or napa and the are like 400 bucks

Personally, I'm betting on the igniter being the problem. That's where I was going to go with having you recheck for sparks. No sparks would almost ensure a failed igniter.

Roger that thanks man.

So i tried to get a refund on the igniter from ebay said no which sucks. He first said that it might be my coil packs making the igniter go out? I omh'd out the front 3 coils and hot they where at 1.0? Is this the range they need to be in? Can send me specs or how i would diagnose that? Much appreciated.

Here's what Lexus says about resistance. You're within the hot specs.

Thanks the front 3 are good then. Need to check the back 3.

Definitely do that. I still think we're looking at the igniter though, but a little extra diagnosis won't hurt.

K thank you