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Engine cranks over but will not start and run?

Tiny
KECKER JUNIOR
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 203,000 MILES
My truck turns over, but refuses to start.
There is no fuel at the block; outlet of the fuel filter or inlet either after installing a new fuel pump.
Relay tested okay. Checked all wiring between hood and tank harness and found no issues.

Along with a new pump I put in two new OEM supply lines from the new tank to the block. Blew air through all lines before installing them.

Followed priming sequence with the ignition and heard pump come on each time. Truck will not start. I am stumped and need help.
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Wednesday, March 7th, 2018 AT 7:58 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,853 POSTS
Are you sure you have the fuel lines hooked up correctly?
Does this have 2 tanks?
Does this have a fuel balance module like shown here just to the rear of the fuel filter?
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Friday, March 9th, 2018 AT 6:51 AM
Tiny
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  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
In my situation, the lines are connected correctly; there is only one 25 gal. Tank and no fuel balance module exists.
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Monday, March 12th, 2018 AT 6:37 PM
Tiny
PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO
  • MECHANIC
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You said "I put in two new OEM supply lines from the new tank to the block." Isn't there a fuel filter on the fuel supply line? Do you have fuel pressure and fuel coming out of the fuel supply line if you unhook it right at the fuel tank?
Here is a look at the lines, https://goo.gl/LmWDvq
Looking at this photoshop diagram I made, are you using the fuel supply line to the fuel filter as 7, 11 or 14?
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Monday, March 12th, 2018 AT 6:45 PM
Tiny
KECKER JUNIOR
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Yes I installed two new fuel supply lines. There is a GM filter approximately midway. The line forward of the filter meet up near the rail. There is no pressure detected at the Schrader valve, despite the fuel pump being primed for a couple seconds on attempted start up.

Whenever I put fuel and/or starter fluid directly inside the throttle body, the engine fires up with no problem. Of course it doesn't last very long.
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2018 AT 5:47 PM
Tiny
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  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Has anyone heard of an antitheft type disconnect between the ignition key switch in the steering column and the fuel supply? My 1996 key does not have a chip like newer ones do.

I was wondering whether due to battery disconnect there is some kind of ritual required (like Passcode in newer models?).
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Tuesday, March 13th, 2018 AT 5:56 PM
Tiny
PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,853 POSTS
If the fuel pump runs, there should be pressure and gas present at least at the filter inlet.
Why didn't you answer the question about which line in that diagram I made are you using as the fuel supply line, 7, 11 or 14?
Are you sure you have enough gas in the tank?
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Wednesday, March 14th, 2018 AT 6:50 AM
Tiny
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11 appears to be the supply from the tank to the filter
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Wednesday, March 14th, 2018 AT 5:46 PM
Tiny
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On my pump it is the larger of two lines, one the supply to the rail while the other the return.
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Wednesday, March 14th, 2018 AT 5:48 PM
Tiny
PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO
  • MECHANIC
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So you have no vapor hose from the evap?
I think you have the fuel line to the wrong one.
You said it appears 11 is the fuel supply. It is, but is that the way you have it hooked up?
Why don't you just disconnect them lines right at the pump, hotwire the pump and see out of which line the gas comes out.
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Wednesday, March 14th, 2018 AT 7:09 PM
Tiny
KECKER JUNIOR
  • MEMBER
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I have everything hooked up properly. It turns out that there wasn’t enough gas in the tank to be picked up by the brand new fuel pump. So you guys can call me a dumb ass but maybe this will help someone else in this thread
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Friday, March 16th, 2018 AT 4:19 PM

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