1986 Ford E-Series Van 86 Econoline Just won't start

Alright.I got underneath the truck and doublechecked my fuelpump connections and also the canister filter. My plan was to connect a T-fitting for my pressure guage just before the lines reach the pump, after the canister filter. I checked there and zero fuel pressure. I opened up my canister filter and to my surprise, the thing was completely dry, and I installed it almost a week ago. It seems like at some point through the duration of my cranking the engine SOME fuel would have made it to this filter, but no.

So either there is some grime or obstruction in the sock filter inside the tank or some problem with the in-tank pump, or I have a circuitry problem. I had a friend turn the key to 'key on, engine off' as I held the pump relay to see if the solenoids were closing and completing the circuit, and as he turned the key I felt no vibration. There was a clicking sound coming from the EEC computer relay but not the fuel pump relay.

The pump relay obviously sends power to the pump and allows it to activate, so I'm going to get a new pump relay and let you know what happens next. Your thoughts?

Wow, I wouldn't know where that thing is. Is it nearby the relays? Also, what's the procedure to ground it?

Thank you so much for your help. And by the way, I jumped the inertia switch a few weeks ago, to no avail. I've just got both wires that went into it tied to each other and covered in electrical tape.

Another thing - I Did hear the new pump run. Perhaps two times. But after that absolutely nothing. I had it connected differently when I heard it prime.

I had two metal brackets that came with the new pump attached to the +/- terminals, as the connectors on my wire ends were designed to fit to such a bracket. The old pump had metal brackets extending from its terminals which connected to the corresponding wire ends. The new pumps terminals, however are just two extending screw ends. I thought perhaps my connection there was subpar so I just cut my wires back an inch or so and wrapped the +/- wires around the corresponding terminals and tightened them down with a bolt then covered with rubber insulation.

I wonder if this connection is just dirt-poor and I need to rethink it? I bought a new fuelpump relay today and put it in - with no improvement in fuel pressure. Still zero. And like I said, the inertia switch is completely jumped.

Hey, just wanted to say the other day I was inspecting the battery terminal connections and found one of the wires leading to the negative post was really corroded; and as I jiggled it I was able to hear the high pressure pump working in key on-engine off position. I bought a new terminal connector and tightened those wires down, and voila! I have circuit continuity.

. But still zero pressure on my guage. The pump primes with every turn of the key now, but still no pressure reading. I put some gas in the canister filter before the high pressure pump since it was bone-dry, just to see if the pump would suck it up and start the engine, but no. There is nothing bringing fuel up the line from that filter, and the filter is remaining dry after multiple start attempts.

Someone at a parts dealer I spoke with mentioned bleeding the lines of air. He said perhaps there was air in the fuel lines which was preventing the pump from pressurizing it seeing as it was already maximal. And I need to bleed them of air. Not sure how to exactly accomplish this; I did however press the pressure releif valve on my pressure guage while I cranked the engine, but nothing.

10 times you say? I will try that later. I noticed a new component in the fuel system that is mounted to the chassis directly after fuel comes from the tanks and before the canister filter. I'm not sure if it's related to the tank toggle switch that dictates which tank is being used. But it has 6 fuel lines to/from it. 3 are labelled source and 3 are labelled return. I heard a general clicking noise coming from that area when a friend used the driver seat fuel toggle switch to change tanks. There's some electrical connector going to it.

I disconnected a 'source' fuel line from this component and had a friend crank it over in both front and rear tank positions. And nothing. All signs seem to point to a faulty connection at the in-tank pump, or outright pump failure. It just seems odd that both these pumps, in both tanks, simultaneously failed. Your thoughts?

Alright then, that's what I'm looking at. When I have the money and a day off I'll drop the tanks and replace the pumps. Whew! Here goes.