Engine noise

Tiny
DIVIDES
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  • 2010 DODGE CHARGER
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 188,000 MILES
Bought it from the auction dirt cheap. Knew it had an engine noise. Car is well maintained, drove excellent, not even suspension issue which are common on these. When I got home 95% of the noise was gone, strange. Can you listen to this see if it's something you heard before? This is when it was cold. I will send another when halfway warm then when fully warm. This is the 3.5l. Not even check engine light.
Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 3:23 PM

40 Replies

Tiny
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Mid way before warm, loud.
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Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 3:25 PM
Tiny
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Raising the RPMs, it kinds of goes away then gets loud. Also turned it off and on again, a lot of the noise was gone.
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Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 3:29 PM
Tiny
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When you first turn it off then turn back on its almost 100% gone then slowly comes back at a minimum.
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Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 3:29 PM
Tiny
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Fully warm.
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Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 3:31 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

I would suggest pulling the valve covers and check for a loose rocker. The hydraulic lifters are adjustable so you can adjust the valve lash by bleeding the hydraulic lash adjuster. However, I feel if you find the loose one, it will need to be replaced. Regardless, you can try bleeding it.

Also, here is a link that explains different sounds from an engine. Take a look through it and see if anything seems to fit.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-noises

Listening to the sound, it sounds like an issue with a rocker. That is why I'm suggesting the adjustment/bleeding.

If you look at the pics below, they are the directions for adjusting lash. Also, I don't feel it is something with the camshaft (yet) because it goes away. A bad lobe wouldn't change.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

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Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 7:19 PM
Tiny
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I see. Makes sense. I did a lot if 3.6l engines as far as lifters changing but never did anything on a 3.5, is this something common?
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Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 7:26 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I don't feel that it is a common problem, but that is what it sounds like. The only problem is this. Listening to a recording isn't the same as being there. However, it does sound related to a lifter issue. The easiest thing to do is remove the valve cover and inspect things. I suspect that is where the issue is because it doesn't sound like a bearing issue.

Let me know if you have questions or if there is something I can do to help.

Joe
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+1
Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 8:51 PM
Tiny
JIS001
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I agree with Joe. You need to start some sort of tear down. I had a similar issue on a 2.7L engine. I removed the valve cover and actually found a bad chain tensioner with a broken chain guide and stripped threads. Here is a link to some videos I posted. Hope this will guide you and give you an idea as what to look for.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/chrysler-300-engine-noise

Hope the videos help you and please update so we know if you need further assistance, or you found what the issue is.

And to my surprise the car is still actually running since I have not gotten the parts to properly finish the repair.
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Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 10:03 PM
Tiny
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I removed the lifter assembly, is this normal? I have seen a lot of videos attributing the sound to this. Many of them are this loose.
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Thursday, October 14th, 2021 AT 10:53 AM
Tiny
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I changed that one side of assembly as far as rockers because it was just eaten and loose, but I removed the timing belt cover and the belt is just too lose in my opinion, but not sure how it can cause such noise.
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Thursday, October 14th, 2021 AT 12:59 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Wow! The belt is way too loose. As far as the rocker arms, they will move, but what I'm seeing seems excessive.

As far as the timing belt, chances are the tensioner is bad. It has a hydraulic tensioner. In your video, the side of the belt you are moving wraps around the water pump, so you should inspect that as well. Actually, if you replace the belt, it is a good idea to replace the water pump at the same time. That way, the chances of you needing to do the job again in the near future are lower.

I'm not sure what your intentions are with the vehicle. If you plan to keep it, I would replace the timing belt and tensioner. It will jump time the way it presently is. I'm surprised it hasn't already. Please keep in mind this engine (3.5L V6) is an interference engine. If the belt breaks while it's running, it will likely cause internal damage.

When you replaced the rocker assembly, did that side quiet down?

If you look below, I attached the directions for the removal and replacement of the timing belt. I'm adding it in the event you want to change it. (I do recommend it) but that's your call.

Let me know if this helps.

Take care.

Joe
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Thursday, October 14th, 2021 AT 5:56 PM
Tiny
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Not keeping it, just want to change the tensioner and send it to auction. I can't really tell if it did quiet down or not as the sound is everywhere and only way for me to tell if after its warm for 20-25 minutes which is when it quiets down and I didn't want to wait that long. Is the tensioner held with one big boot from the bottom? Also, I guess I need to turn the motor a bit so the loose end if the belt is by the tensioner? Easiest way to make sure the marks are lined up?
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Thursday, October 14th, 2021 AT 6:08 PM
Tiny
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Not sure why it is showing two different types.
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Thursday, October 14th, 2021 AT 6:18 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

The second pic looks correct. The end is depressed and being held in by a locking pin. That gets removed once it's installed. I attached a pic from my manual showing what it should look like. See pic 1 below.

The tensioner is located right above and to the left of the crankshaft pulley. See pic 2. Pic 3 shows the tensioner depressed and the locking pin installed.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions. Also, make sure to check the water pump for bearing issues when it's apart.

Let me know if I can help.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Thursday, October 14th, 2021 AT 6:44 PM
Tiny
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Yes, I was confused but one was the tensioner pulley not the tensioner. Car doesn't have any issues overheating and the belt looks good, water pump spins smoothly. Will just change that tensioner.
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Thursday, October 14th, 2021 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
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Can you do me a favor and confirm to me that the bolts to the rocker arm assembly torque at 23 in-lb?
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Thursday, October 14th, 2021 AT 6:58 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

That doesn't sound right. Take a look below. I highlighted what I believe you are referring to. Let me know if this is what you needed. Also, it shows the sequence in which the bolts should be tightened.

Note, the torque is indicated in inch-pounds. If you convert 275 in/lbs to foot-pounds, it comes up as 23 ft/lbs.

If you only tightened them to 23 in/lbs, that is extremely loose. That works out to just under 2 ft/lbs

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.
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Thursday, October 14th, 2021 AT 8:19 PM
Tiny
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Holy smoke, yes I did 23 in/lbs, saw it online, but really 23ft/lb?
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Thursday, October 14th, 2021 AT 8:22 PM
Tiny
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I thought he meant 23 in/lbs here.
https://youtu.be/0YnoH7mV_3g
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Thursday, October 14th, 2021 AT 8:27 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I just listened. Instead of saying foot-pounds, he said feet pound really fast. I had to listen twice.

If you leave them at 23 in/lbs, it's going to come loose.

Take care and let me know if I can help in any way.

Joe
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Thursday, October 14th, 2021 AT 8:34 PM

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