Engine replacement instructions please?

Tiny
MURRAY BROOKER
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 80,000 MILES
I have a truck with a 5.4L 3valve engine (VIN 8th digit V) and I needs the engine replaced. I recently purchased a 2004 f150 with a strong running 5.4L 3valve (VIN 8th digit 5) and I'm wondering if I could swap the engine from the 04 into the 10?
Monday, April 3rd, 2017 AT 7:34 AM

55 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Yes. You can use this engine but you may need to get a generic controller so that you don't have issues with the security system or performance parameters.

However, the engine will just bolt up with no issues.

Below are the instructions from the manual on how to replace this. Let us know what questions you have. Thanks
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 12:26 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon,

Yes, you can.

You will need to make sure you change over any exxternals that may be different.

I attached a youtube video of the procedure for you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EA-wi56daBQ

Roy
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 12:31 PM
Tiny
LEROY SHEPERD
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2008 FORD F-150
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,000 MILES
My truck 4.6L Triton engine locked up going down the highway. I have purchased a new re-manufactured engine and had it shipped to an auto repair shop where I have taken the truck to be fixed. The mechanic at the auto repair shop quoted me a price and approximate time of repair. I received a call from him telling me that my engine is locked up and that I had not told him that and it is going to change the repair costs and time. What is it about changing out a "locked up engine" or a "non-locked up" one that changes the time and cost of repairs?
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
The engine needs to be rotated almost one complete revolution to remove the bolts, one at a time, from the flex plate to the torque converter. Only one or two of them can be accessed at a time through the inspection cover at the bottom/front of the transmission.

Something sounds not quite right here. There is an easy work-around in which the torque converter gets pulled off the transmission and stays with the engine as the engine is removed, then the bolts can be accessed later to remove them.

It is not customary to buy your own parts and ask to have them installed. That's like bringing your own food to a restaurant and asking them to cook it for you. In this case, I find it very hard to believe the person you talked with at the shop didn't ask you right away why you wanted the engine replaced. You wouldn't walk into a hospital and expect to be treated without them asking you for what. When I spoke with a customer who wanted his car aligned, I always asked him why, so I knew if it was just a maintenance thing or if there was some problem I needed to look for. Very often people think a transmission or an engine has to be replaced when no professional actually diagnosed it as such. Any reputable mechanic will check it first to see if that major repair is really needed, and gladly tell you the problem is much less-expensive to solve. I can't imagine someone not asking why you wanted to have the engine replaced.

Given the age and mileage, as long as this work is being done, consider having the transmission's from pump seal replaced right away. They become hardened from engine heat over time, and regardless whether the torque converter comes out with the engine or it stays on the transmission, that seal is going to have unusual pressure placed on it that will deform it. If it is still pliable, it will just go back to its proper shape when everything is reassembled. If it has become hardened, it is likely to crack. That will result in leaking transmission fluid and the need to remove either the engine or the transmission to get to that seal, when that could have been avoided by just replacing it as long as they were right there. That is a round metal ring with a rubber lip seal that rides on the hub of the torque converter. This extra service should take about 15 to 20 minutes when everything is already disassembled.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,139 POSTS
Shouldn't be much more time, locked up or not!
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CABLANKENSHIP
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
Is it possible for me to swap out my blown 5.4 l engine from my 2004 f150 xlt with a 5.4 l triton engine from a 1999 E350?
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
As long as you can put in all the sensors from the 04 engine in the 99 then you could as they are both overhead cam. If not it wouldn't work because the computer wouldn't work correctly and your fuel mileage would be crap
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
COACHMIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 10,045 MILES
My truck stalled while driving through standing rain water. It was up to at least 3/4 of the front of the truck about 45 min. I was told the engine had to be replace, I also had to buy a water pump, carburator, brakes set and air and oil filter. Did I need to buy those items, if the engine was to be replace?
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
It matters if you purchased a short block. In that case, parts from the old engine need to be switched to the new one. However, you vehicle doesn't have a carburator, and the brakes shouldn't have been affected. As far as the air and oil filter, yes you would need them.

Let me know if you have other questions.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GREGORY MCDANIEL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 154,000 MILES
My truck listed above has a loud clunking noise and low or no oil pressure. I was told it needed a new timing chain and guide set up and a new oil pump. I The VIN is FTRW08L63KC31966. I have another Ford, VIN is FMRU15L11LA35999. This is in a 2 wheel drive SUV. Can I swap motors, and what would be involved?
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello, I'm Danny.

Sorry, the engine from the Expedition even though its a 5.4L it has a completely different prefix number and is therefore non-interchangeable with your F-150. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHARLES RAGLAND
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 FORD F-150
  • 4.2L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 250,000 MILES
I have a blown engine and I want to replace with new engine. Can I change intake and use carburetor?
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,461 POSTS
That depends on the engine you are using and how much work you want to do, as well as what area you are in with regards to testing of safety and emissions. The truck would instantly fail any emission testing. Next you will need a different fuel system to handle the low pressure for the carb, and determine how to work with the electronics like the ignition and such. You wouldn't be able to use much of the current parts as they depend on the injection system and computer.
Everything would be going back to the late 80's to make a carb work, and in the end you have a vehicle that will get worse mileage, be harder to tune and close to impossible to sell.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
In the event that you want to replace the motor, below is the process from the manual if you need it.

Thanks
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PRESTON HARRIS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD F-150
  • 4.2L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 282,000 MILES
Had no oil pressure and the oil pump drive shaft was not spinning so assumed the camshaft synchronizer was bad. Upon removal I found that the driving gear connected to the large timing chain sprocket was completely smoothed down. I cannot find a name for this piece or any info on how to remove it! Any help is appreciated. Image of the gear below.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,602 POSTS
That is part of the camshaft so you will need a new one. Also, this usually happens when the oil pump pickup is clogged or the oil pump is going out. If this is the original engine it might be time for a rebuilt unit. First disconnect the battery and drain the coolant and engine oil. Here are the instructions on how to replace the engine in the diagrams below. Check out the diagrams (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PALESOO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 FORD F-150
  • 4.2L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
I've just replaced the engine of my truck with a used engine that my father in law bought from the states. The problem is, there are some extra wire harness and some extra hoses that I don't know where they go to. How can you tell what year was that engine manufactured and what model was it from? Is there a number on the engine that I can tell what year that model is?
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
There should be a number in the engine block casting. If you can find and provide that, I may be able to decode it and get the info you need.

Also, tell me engine type. For example, is it a 6 cylinder, 8 cylinder.

I will also mention that based on the model year of the engine, you may be in for more than you expect. Many of the newer engines have different sensors, different ports. Than the older ones. In addition, you may not be able to get your present sensors to work which can lead to new problems.

Let me know and I'll do my best.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMESBURROW
  • MEMBER
  • 46 POSTS
  • 1998 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 377,000 MILES
What all do I need to take off when removing my engine out of my truck listed above?
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:27 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
I am attaching the entire process from the manual on how to remove the engine. Let us know if you have other questions. It is pretty extensive but not too bad to remove this one.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2021 AT 2:27 PM (Merged)

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