Hard to start

Actually, the problem sounds like you are losing the fuel pressure prim when the engine is shut. Here is a how to for checking fuel pressure, regulator, and drop off. When you shut the key, the pressure should hold steady. If it drops quickly to 0PSI, we need to check for a leak, fuel filter anti flow back valve, bad fuel pump, or regulator. Check it and let me know what you find.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

NOTE: You will need a fuel pressure gauge. Most parts stores will lend or rent them to you.

Let me know what you find.
Joe

Possible coolant temp sensor? If the engine computer thinks it's warmer than it really is, it will not command a sufficient priming squirt from the injectors. Look for the two-wire sensor. The single-wire temp sensor is for the gauge on the dash. Chrysler doesn't have much trouble with temperature sensors; Ford has a lot.

Also possible low fuel pressure or the pump isn't starting right away. GM trucks won't run at all if the fuel pressure is just a few pounds low. Dodge trucks will run, but may develop problems such as yours.

If fuel pressure is bleeding off while the trucks sits for a while, suspect a leaking injector. You can prove this by cycling the ignition switch on for a few seconds without cranking the engine. Turn it back of, wait five seconds, turn it on again, and maybe do this a third time. Every time you turn it on, the fuel pump will run for two seconds, then stop until the engine computer sees engine rotation, (cranking or running). These two or three bursts from the pump will insure pressure is up and ready for starting. If it starts right away now, an injector is leaking, or the pressure regulator or pump check valve is leaking. I think by 2003, your regulator is in the tank, not on the fuel rail on the engine. I would just live with those because of the cost of a new fuel pump assembly, but if it's a leaking injector, raw fuel will be dumped into the intake manifold after you shut the engine off. The fuel could run down past the piston rings into the oil, reducing its lubricating properties. This isn't quite as critical if you do a lot of long trip driving, like 15 - 20 or more miles. Long trips with the engine fully warmed up will tend to vaporize the fuel in the oil. It will get drawn out through the PCV valve and burned.

Caradiodoc

Have you tried replacing the ignition wires?

Yes it can. As far as the wires, they could have too much resistance in them which can cause a weak spark. Add water to the mixture, and they can arc and short.

Check it out and let me know what you find.

Check fuel pressure
also need to check for codes
an OBDII reader should help
most local part stores can help in getting the codes

What is a period of time?

Check the fuel pressure if its within specs-seems to me its losing fuel pressure due to a leaky injector/s, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump check valve

The first thing I recommend checking is the fuel pump pressure. See if it is within the manufacturer's specs. Also, see if it is dropping off quickly when you turn the key off and if it is building pressure quickly when you first turn the key on.

As far as the idle issue, it could be a vacuum leaks, the idle air control valve. Wait to see what the fuel pressure turns out to be and then we can move on.

Let me know what you find.

The fuel pressure running should be between 44 and 54 PSI. When you shut it, the pressure shouldn't drop below 30 PSI for 5 minutes. If it does drop, you have a leak. Try this:

Start the engine and allow it to warm up. Next, clamp off rubber hose portion of fuel line pressure test adapter between fuel rail and test port T on fuel line pressure tester adapter. Note shut engine when you clamp the rubber hose. If the pressure does not fall below 30 PSI within 5 minutes, the fuel rail or an injector is leaking. Next, do the same, but place the clamp between the rubber hose of the fuel line pressure tester adapter and the fuel line and test port T on fuel line pressure tester adapter. If it doesn't fall, the injectors and fuel rail is good. That leaves a fuel pump check valve, fuel pressure regulator check valve or a leak in the fuel line.

Note: A slow pressure leak usually indicates a bad check valve in the fuel pump. A quick drop usually indicates a bad check valve in the fuel filter or regulator.

Let me know if this helps and what you find.

Joe

You have been around cars for awhile to have understood what I said. Yes, I'm trying to determine which part of the system is leaking. I feel very confident the quick pressure bleed off is causing the hard start. I doubled checked it in the manual (Mitchell online) and all of the pressures I gave you are accurate. And the bleed of times are correct too.

Let me know what you find, and yes again, you nailed it.

Joe