Shut off while driving

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,645 POSTS
When this happens, don't unhook the battery. Take it to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer for trouble codes. Most will do it for free and it will identify why the light came on and most likely what is causing the problem.
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Monday, September 2nd, 2019 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARTHE DUNCAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1994 DODGE INTREPID
  • 0.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
When car shifts into second gear, the car stalls and shuts off. It does not want to crank until it cools down. Is it a speed sensor, or could be a fuel filter or fuel pump?
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Monday, September 2nd, 2019 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
Which engine do you have the 3.3 or the 3.5?

So your saying you can be driving along, The transmission shifts into second gear and the engine stalls. Then if you try to start it immediately it won't turn over? Or will not start? (Two different things) until it cools down.

More than likely not the pump or filter. They would cause a problem regardless of what gear the transmission is in.

Will it stall if you manually shift it into second?
What does it do if you get rolling in first, shift into neutral and then into drive?
Check engine light on?
Does it stall every time the trans shifts into second?

There was a recall on the 1994's about the transmission control harness rubbing through because it was hitting the right side tie rod. Might check that first.
Next the symptoms point to a crank sensor but before you just swap it out I would have a good scan tool put on it, there are codes that can be set that do not turn on the check engine light. Also, if this happens all the time the scan tool could be used to see what sensors are still working after the engine stalls.
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Monday, September 2nd, 2019 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARTHE DUNCAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Seems I asked the wrong question, so my husband said, what happens is the car goes into overdrive and then stalls (drops down into 2 ND gear and want shift back up ), he drops it in neutral, coast to 45 mph, then restarts it up to pick backup speed, it also doesn't want to crank when he first starts it up, like it's not getting enough fuel, has to turn it over 4 or 5 times, before it cranks, if the fuel pump (which is in the trunk) isn't sealed down completely (I know it's hard to get it to go in place)could that cause it to not run correctly?And half dash lights have went out so don't know if it's showing a check engine light or any thing, Thanks
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Monday, September 2nd, 2019 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,256 POSTS
Hello,

If I can offer my two cents. It sounds like it could be a overdrive transmission solenoid that has shorted causing the computer to shut down. The computer cools and then it starts working again.

Here is a wiring diagram so you can do some checking. Use a volt meter and check the resistance of all solenoids to see if one is shorted, here is a guide to help you too.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, September 2nd, 2019 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TAYLORJOHN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 DODGE INTREPID
  • 6 CYL
  • TURBO
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 122,000 MILES
On the transmission, when I drive it runs fine until I slow to 20 mph. Then the passing gear kicks in. So I must stop and turn off the car. Restart and drive away. It will drive fine until I slow to 20 mph and it will do it again. Sometimes when I drive car will stall and will not start for about 20 minutes. Now car has stalled and wont start at all. The lights come on but will not make a sound.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 5:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,864 POSTS
That's not nearly enough information to diagnose anything, but I think I can make a good suggestion. That "passing gear" you referred to is second gear, and that's the default for "limp mode" when the Transmission Computer detects a problem. You get it out of limp mode by turning the ignition switch off, then restarting the engine. There is going to be a diagnostic fault code stored in that computer. Having that code read is the place to start with the diagnosis. It will indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis, or the unacceptable operating condition.

There may be a fault code in the Engine Computer too related to the stalling condition, but you listed two conflicting symptoms. The original stalling, and restarting after 20 minutes is typical of a failing camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor. They often fail by becoming heat-sensitive, then will work again after cooling down.

The no-start you have now is different and could be related to the transmission problem. If there's no light click from the starter relay when you turn the ignition switch to "crank", one of the possible causes is a defective neutral safety switch. It is actually a range sensor on your car and it can cause a fault code to set that sends the system into limp mode. It sounds to me like you have three problems with a total of two causes.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 5:23 PM (Merged)

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