Shut off while driving

Cars don't vapor lock anymore when they have pressurized systems. Some very common problems include a failing crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor. They fail when they get hot and work again after cooling down for about an hour. When one fails, you'll find you have no spark AND no fuel pressure.

I'm all for leaving the mechanic out of the picture!

I mess with older Jeeps and Fords

Without a Check Engine light on or Stored Codes available, you are sorta stuck checking for spark and fuel, during the hiccup or immediately, hooking up some sorta "Real Time, Ride Around Diagnostic computer" and usually paying someone to do so........and doing without your rig, for days or more!

I'm not really up on computer rigs bigtime, but I get there, as need-be on my end.....but I'm learning

I do read thru a lot of stuff coming thru here

You symptoms are exactly like what caradiodoc has described as being associated with the Crankshaft Sensor (sometimes camshaft).....But most of the time, I see the Crankshhaft sensor being the fix!

Here's the sad thing, you will soon see the cost of this thing, and the ONE bolt holding it in place, and the wire connector you must remove from the old, and clip back onto the new!

If anybody on your end.....you, neighbor, buddy at work, the little girl next door! is capable of changing a spark plug, this task could probably be done in less than an hour......most of that time, "yakking about it!"

I do not know your car.....unless you must remove a major item to get to this "THING".....My 5 year old Grandson could probably do it!

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&actionSrc=Suggest&searchTerm=crankshaft+sensor

I do know it must be installed properly spaced, but the factory probably already helped you out with that!

As far as where to find it.............That what we can assist you with!

Ain't much going on, so I jumped on board to give you the Country Boy view of this.

caradiodoc, will guide you the rest of the way as far as installation Dos and Don'ts

Like I said, I'm not familiar with your car....I'm just tryin' to save you time and $$$

Let me know if you need "George" to come help you!.....I'll get him right over, after he finishes with my Army Jeep Trailer!

The Medic

I really din't mean to send 2nd pic. This is the one that was supposed to go there!

The Medic

Unfortunatly, you are going to have to get the codes with a scanner, problem with using CEL is that some codes mean several different things and the CEL cant distinguish between the different codes the PCM is giving. Aside from that does it sound normal when cranking? There are some fusible links at the starter on your car, might want to use a test light and verify they are ok.

This was all caradiodoc's diagnosing, he's the one who deserves the credit!

I just added flavor and motivation to it!

When you get it, talk to the parts man, who is not constantly texting someone. You know. The mature caring feller who will actually spend a little time explaining stuff!

Insure you know how to properly install this thing. Or return here and ask Doc how to do it.

Insure you return with wonderful news.

As we seldom get visitors, see little of the outside world, and have to eat with plastic eating utensils. Lol!

Please let us know, Doc fixed you!

The Medic

Original equipment sensors from the dealer use a thick paper spacer on the end to set the critical air gap. That spacer slides off the first time the engine is started. Most aftermarket sensors have a plastic rib molded to the end to set that gap. It partially wears down during engine operation. When that style is removed and reinstalled, the remaining rib is supposed to be cut off and a new paper spacer used.

When no spacer is used, if the sensor is pushed in as far as it will go, it can be broken from hitting on the flex plate. If it is spaced out too far it can cause intermittent loss of signal and stalling, usually after the engine warms up. There should be a diagnostic fault code stored in the Engine Computer related to that sensor.

Hi siwytom17. Welcome to the forum. Don't waste your time on the fuel filter. Other than on diesel trucks, you will never solve a running problem on a chrysler product by changing the fuel filter. They actually pass the largest volume of fuel during coasting and the least amount during hard acceleration.

The symptom you described is typical of a failing camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor. They often become heat-sensitive and will work again after they cool down. If the Check Engine light came on, there will be a diagnostic fault code stored in the Engine Computer that will lead you to the right sensor. The camshaft position sensor is on top of the engine right in front and a little to the driver's side. The crankshaft position sensor is in the transmission bell housing right next to the engine block on the passenger side. Both have three wires in their connectors.

Caradiodoc