1996 Dodge Caravan wont start

Tiny
MARIONH
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 214,000 MILES
While I was driving, my van quit and has not started since. Ive got compression, fuel, and spark to 4 cylinders. It will crank, (not start) but only when the battery gets to a low voltage. Ive changed the cam and crank sensors and coil pack twice.
I was thinking on changing the ecm, but before I do spend that money was wanting to see if you had any other ideas and if in my ecm is there different ports or whatever they are called that operate different cylinders? Im not getting spark to the 2 and 5, but all the rest spark intermittently
Friday, June 4th, 2010 AT 7:36 AM

33 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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It could be the ignition control module. It is located under the hood, center, rear engine area. It's mounted in distributor.
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Friday, June 4th, 2010 AT 11:47 AM
Tiny
MARIONH
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My vehicle dont have a icm or a distributer. Its all run from the ecm.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks
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Friday, June 4th, 2010 AT 2:18 PM
Tiny
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Interesting. WHat size V6 do you have. I remember looking this one up and found that it does have and ICM, but it may have been for a different V6. Let me know.
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Saturday, June 5th, 2010 AT 6:14 PM
Tiny
MARIONH
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Ok, now that ive replaced the ecm, Ive got fire and she wants to start, however im not getting fuel into the intake. I had a man come over with a diagnostic machine and he said the engine is telling the ecm that its 180 degrees. My oil pressure is between 45 and 47 and I have correct timing.I noticed last night when I try to start it that the headlights try to come on. Im confused for sure now.
My van ihas been modified for a wheelchair, It also has what I thought was just a panic button, but Im guessing its an alarm system, but it has nover done more that set off a horn of some type when I hit the panic button on the key chain.
Im wondering if I got a defective ecm or if you have anymore suggestions.
God bless you for all you do
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Tuesday, June 8th, 2010 AT 7:17 AM
Tiny
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Replace the temp sensor. It is designed to tell the computer what the ambient and coolant temp is so the computer knows how rich or lean to make the fuel mixture.

After thought. Before replacing it, see if it will start with starting fluid. Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Tuesday, June 8th, 2010 AT 1:47 PM
Tiny
MARIONH
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I didnt have starting fluid, but sprayed gas directly into intake, and as long as I could get gas in there it would run for a few seconds, but as soon as the gas burnt off it died again.
I guess Im gonna try the temp sensor. Ill get back to you soon.
Thanks again
Marion
P.S. Was wondering if my gas was bad, as I got real low on fuel so I put $10 in the tank, I mean almost empty, then went about 5 miles, and thats when it died.
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Tuesday, June 8th, 2010 AT 2:09 PM
Tiny
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You have a fuel pump issue at this point. Check the fuel pump pressure both before and after the fuel filter. The filter may be plugged from running it that low or it may have damaged the pump.

Let me know what you find. If you need directions, let me know.
Joe
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Tuesday, June 8th, 2010 AT 2:18 PM
Tiny
MARIONH
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Let me start by saying you are a god send!
I have checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, it reads 45-47, as far as checking it before the filter, Im lost!
I also noticed that when I try to start it without stepping on the throttle is when it tries to start, however, if I try to put any throttle to it, nothing happens.
I went to the parts house and got a bottle of "heet" to try to dry up any water if any was in there, still nothing.
Please help me, Im desperate!
Thanks a million
Marion
P.S. Is there an access panel inside of the van to get to the fuel filter, and is there more than 1 filter?
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Tuesday, June 8th, 2010 AT 8:21 PM
Tiny
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First, I'm glad to help. I enjoy helping good people. I double checked the fuel pressure requirements. I found it should be at 49psi, but 47 should run the vehicle. If it is running when you put fuel to it manually, now I have to question the injectors. If you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail, the last step is to inject it into the engine. I hate to say it, but we need to do one more test. You will need a simple light called a "noid light." Most parts stores will lend or rent it to you. What you do with it is simple. You disconnect one injector at a time, plug the power side wiring that was going to the injector into the light. When you crank the engine, the light should pulse on and off each time the injector should fire.

I hate to keep asking you to check things. If it was in a shop, these things could be done very quickly. I realize it is a pain. Also, now that you are getting spark, is it a blue snapping hot spark or more orange or white?

Let me know.
Joe
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Tuesday, June 8th, 2010 AT 9:13 PM
Tiny
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Sorry, I forgot to tell you where the fuel filter is. It is under vehicle on the passenger side, below seating area, front of fuel tank, mounted on frame in fuel line. It is accessed from under the vehicle.

I knew I forgot something when I hit send.
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Tuesday, June 8th, 2010 AT 9:16 PM
Tiny
MARIONH
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I think I remember the guys that were helping me doing the test on the injectors and the light was a pulsing blue light. I was thinking there was a 2nd filter but didnt exactly know where to look as the van was modified for a wheelchair. The floor has been dropped 10 inches all the way to the back seat to modify for the wheelchair and the gas tank is now all the way in the back of the van where the spare tire used to be.
Ill get back to you after I find the filter.
This mechanic stuff is definitely for men, being a woman, I've broke all my nails, and how do you get the funk off of your hands? Lol
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Wednesday, June 9th, 2010 AT 9:50 AM
Tiny
MARIONH
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Gonna double check with the guy helping me, what does it mean if the light was orange or whatever color you said?
Bty, I looked at your profile and noticed your from PA. Im originally form Bradford Pa. Been in Al for 14 years
Marion
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Wednesday, June 9th, 2010 AT 10:21 AM
Tiny
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Take a scrub brush and scrub under the broken nails. That is about the only way to clean them. I'm outside of Pittsburgh, but after this winter, ready to move south.

As far as the colors you asked about, I was refering to the color spark the plugs were getting. It should be blue in color. If it is white or orange, it is weak.
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Wednesday, June 9th, 2010 AT 12:54 PM
Tiny
MARIONH
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Ok, so I tried everything you said, all checks out. I replaced the ecm again, thinking it was faulty and still the same thing.
Could it be the ignition switch or what? Im so frustrated!
What else can I do?
Pleeeeasssse help
Marion
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Saturday, June 12th, 2010 AT 9:51 AM
Tiny
MARIONH
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Btw, could it be the map sensor
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Saturday, June 12th, 2010 AT 9:52 AM
Tiny
MARIONH
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  • 20 POSTS
After weeks of research, I was wondering if you can tell me according to your expertise what the fuel pressure should be at the fuel rail.
Also, do I have an ignition control module, where it, would be and could you send me a diagram of it, and if this would cause my issues. What bout a iac? Im at my wits end!
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Saturday, June 12th, 2010 AT 10:58 AM
Tiny
MARIONH
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After reading through the forum, I found a guy with a similar problem, ended up it was his map sensor. I went and disconnected mine and kinda wanted to start, but not really. I did the code search with the check engine light and didnt detect it was even unplugged, starting to think this is my problem because it says it will act like a bad fuel pump. What is your opinion and shouldnt that map being unplugged set a code?
Thanks
marion, , below is his post

Posted at Fri Jan 15, 2010 1:08 am
By bluehapp, New 2Carpros Member
(6) Give Feedback | Votes: 0

I went to pull a part and got a eng control module for 12 bucks.
Went home trying to figure the compatablity from 1988 to my 1989, I ran across the MAP sensor test. The author said the MAP sensor will act like a failing fuel pump. The car will try to start but will die like the fuel pump is bad. The test is simply to unplug it. The car will run ruff but not die after starting. I did this and went to pull a part and got two for 3 dollars. Problem solved. When I unplugged the dang thing I got a code 14. If I would have known the MAP sensor acts like this I could have saved a lota time. Thanks for your input anyway. John.
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Sunday, June 13th, 2010 AT 11:36 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Yes, a map sensor could cause the engine to die and seem like it's not getting fuel. Also, you asked what the fuel pressure should be, the book says 49PPSI at the rail. Even though you are not getting a code for a map sensor, it may not be a bad thing to try.
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Monday, June 14th, 2010 AT 11:45 AM
Tiny
MARIONH
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Ok, so here is my latest, actually got it running last night, runs beautifully! The crank sensor had to be readjusted. Fabulous, its back on the road, or so I thought.
Started it up today, had a fuel leak in the filler neck of the tank. Went to a shop and got it changed out, ran great for about 50 miles. Then it happened again, it started, but was rough, and would only go bout 5 mph, smelled real funny( like funny gas, maybe, don't really know how to explain the smell), so I waited 2 1/2 hours for a tow truck after we got if off the flat bed, it started like nothing was wrong, but it set a code 11 on the dtc. Which means no crank to the ecm. Am I missing something? Maybe something that makes it act up when hot, idk, was still wondering bout the map sensor, and if would act like that if it was the map sensor or would it throw a map code?
Please help
Thanks
Marion

Btw, I was talking to a guy at the junkyard, he said there is some sort of box under the dash, drivers side, bout 3 by 3 that the security system goes through that might be causing this issue im having. He couldn't remember the name of the part, but if you could tell me I'de try it.
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Monday, June 14th, 2010 AT 9:00 PM
Tiny
MARIONH
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Hope all is well with you, havent heard from you since my last post.
Is it possible that I got a bad crank sensor in the beginning? On these vans, do the parts actually have to be mopar, or can they be aftremarket?
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Wednesday, June 16th, 2010 AT 10:33 AM

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