Different spark intensity

Yes, it is that hose. I took the stock filter box and saw the hole on the side where it has been previously connected. I have glued a small pipe there with a silicone and these days going to mount stock filter box and connect that hose there and will see if there is some change. Until then I would like to ask one more question, about the speedometer, does someone have an idea what can cause the problem.
The problem is: When you drive, the needle meter show the correct speed, but the digital meter show incorrect numbers. For example you drive 50kmh, and numbers say 40. When you stop, needle goes to 0, and digital numbers stuck to some value as 15 kmh or 20-25 kmh.

Tonight I made another check, as I told, I removed the electrical connectors from dpfe sensor and vacuum switch solenoid of EGR valve, and also blocked the hoses, but as I saw the vacuum switch was bad and there was a vacuum leak. After I unplug its main hose and blocked it, I saw a new problem, when driving in idle, it fluctuates a lot.

Can someone give me diagram or words explanation about the wiring of the ignition coil pack to be able to try put some new wires? Or tell me if that is normal to have one weak spark and one strong on the same coil. Because I bought new ignition coil pack, cables are almost new (also tried with another set) and there is still weak spark on 1 and 2, and strong on 3 and 4. It is noticeable, because when cable is removed, on 1 and 2, spark starting to jump only on 1-2 cm away of spark plug and is almost not noticeable, what is not case on 3 and 4 where the spark jumps about 10 cm anywhere and is strongly noticeable. Thanks

Dear, thanks for your answer and for your diagrams. I am going to do the measurement tonight after work and give you a feedback answer. As I understand you, I should measure the resistance between the two (as I think ground) points that come from PCM, because the center wire is common + for both coils in the pack. Here I would ask you one (between) question. Can the ignition capacitor somehow affect the spark? Because as I can read on internet it is only for radio interference removal. And mine is removed, because when I bought the car, it's wire was cut and it was just screwed, so when I replace the coil pack, I dismounted it. I mean for this capacitor on the photo attached.

I thought that I should measure these two points as showed in attachment. But in this case as you attached, I should remove the PCM and measure the resistance from one wire end to other wire end as I can understand?

Isn't there some measuring way to measure the voltage on primary windings? I mean easier way, because PCM as I know is very good hidden inside and to measure this resistance, I should unplug it and find the correct wires, because I should measure the resistances of both wires - for each coil because it gives low spark on both coils - one end strong one weak.

Mine case is like this:

I also found this on Google about that capacitor, is it true?

The weak spark was from the beginning of time using new coil pack. Also, as I mentioned, it is not weak spark from one coil, but weak spark from one side of both coils on the pack. As I mentioned before, weak on 1 and 2. Also I tried swap test, and when I swap the plug cables, I got weak sparks on 3 and 4, strong on 1 and 2.

Car was bought in chaotic condition, but no one is guilty about my fault. It was bought with replaced engine. Now the engine is zetec 1.8, also it has added modified LPG (not one of new types with injectors) and also it has problems with driving and idle. I cleared the EGR valve, but it didn't help, so I completely remove it. Then it got better in driving, and not so stable idle. As I mentioned I also replace the IAC valve, but idle was the same. I found some vacuum leaks with a cigar smoke test and fixed them, so idle stabilized a little bit more. When you stop, it is high and slowly goes down, sometimes to 900, sometimes to 1,100. Sometimes it immediately stops on 1,000. The issue with the spark I noticed when was replacing spark plugs and wires. Then tried with other coil pack (not new) it was the same. Then bought new one and it was still the same and went to 7-8 mechanics here in our stupid Macedonia and everyone says When it has a spark, it is a spark, it works, and it drives, so it is completely okay. About the PCM must be honest that I don't have money to replace it. Also, as there is written it acts like a ground switch, so when it sends signal to both coils as I think it should be okay. Also, last night I found a little module under the hood on the driver side and googled its number, it shows cruising control module, so I plan to try unplugging and try to drive because maybe it causes unstable IAC work somehow. When you have million of issues you don't know where to start.

I should make another video tomorrow if you like to see that clearly. About the engine, the seller (you can call him liar) told me that it is from Mondeo mk 2, but only that, nothing more. He even sold me it without real balance bar, as I was unable to notice. Even with no driver side window mechanism inside, telling me that the button doesn't work. As I read on internet that small module called cruising control, controls the throttle by a step motor or by the brake vacuum with a second wire (instead of that one from the pedal), so that's why I asked you would be some damage if I just unplug that piece to try to drive, because if that makes some vacuum changes maybe that causes something like leaking? Also, I read lot of texts about wasted spark ignition, and nowhere found about the intensity of the spark, but found that in these types of ignition coil packs, each coil has positive and negative side on the secondary, so in that case, can it be normal situation with the spark arch? Thanks, a lot for your patience and time.