Engine cranks but does not start?

Hi,

Did you use the paper clip to jump the relay and engage the starter?

Do me a favor and take a look at the wiring schematic below. I need you to check the fuses I highlighted. In addition to checking the fuse, confirm there is power to and from them. Here is a link to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Also, you indicated you got three new relay fuses. Do you mean both the relay and fuses were replaced? If not, switch the relay with a different one having the same part number and see if that makes a difference. If there isn't one, here is a link that explains how to test a relay:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

One other thought. Try starting it in neutral to see if that makes a difference.

Let me know what you find. Also, when looking at the schematic, let me know which pins were jumped with the paper clip.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below. Note: I had to cut the schematic in half to make it readable. I did overlap the two so you can follow from one to the next.

Thank you so very much for your response, I'm going to show this to the ones working on my car, I will be back in touch.
Thank you!

Hi,

No problem whatsoever. I hope it helps. I will watch for the results.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe,

Thanks so much again. Finally, all this has been done, not sure yet, but still doing same, was told computer is bad, I should be able to get before Monday or on Monday, I will keep you posted. Your info helped a lot as well!!

Thanks Joe!

Hey Joe,

I got computer, now theft light is on and won't even crank.
I got a new ignition switch also????

Hi,

It sounds like we need to program things. Which computer did they replace? Also, confirm if this is a 3.0L or the 3.5L V6.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe,
Thank you again!

I have 2.0L 4 cylinder.

I got a used ECU.
And the one they sent has hc after number on top line
Mine is ARB after numbers,
Now not even crank
And theft light on (it stays on, don't blink)
If I buy a new one, will it already be programmed, and will my car start?
If I have nothing else wrong?
Thank you, Joe
I appreciate you!

Hi,

The idea that the part number is different is a concern, but I question if that is causing the no-start condition. The new ECU is programmed to recognize the key in the vehicle it came from.

What I would recommend is this. Check online for remanufactured ones that are "plug and play". Basically, they program it for your vehicle and then it just requires installation.

Let me know your thoughts.

Joe

Hi Joe,

Dang-it
My computer just arrived today, got from flagship, Programmed and updated, plug, play,
Nothing,
In theft mode they said??

My bad, it says mykey is active.

Hi,

Is it working properly now? I'm not sure if you are still having key issues or not. If it says the key is active, it recognizes it.

Let me know.

Joe

Sorry, the locksmith had come, made keys.
Accepted now.
Still no start.
Also, he had the computer thing you hook up, he said it's a fuel problem.
So, that was the first thing I had done.
New fuel pump.

Hi,

It sounds like he had a scan tool. By chance, did he tell you what codes he found?

Let's try something. Using starting fluid, see if it starts for a couple of seconds and then stalls. If it does, then we know it's a fuel-related issue. If there is no change, it would likely be ignition related. If that is the case, we need to check for ignition spark at the plugs.

Here is a link that explains how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Try this and let me know what happens. Also, let me know if you hear the fuel pump turn on briefly when the key is first turned on.

Take care,

Joe

Thank you so very much!
I shall return!! Thank you!

Oh, no didn't give codes, yes, the fuel pump kicks on.
Thank you

Hi,

Check for ignition spark. A faulty crankshaft position will prevent spark and in some cases, not set a code. Take a look through this link for a more detailed description of the symptoms that can result from a faulty sensor.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe.

Hi,

I was unable to read the first code. The next two can be caused by a few things. Are you certain the relay is good and has power to and from it?

Take a look at the two pics below. They are the definitions of the codes. Based on what I see, we are not getting power via the relay.

Let me know your thoughts.

Joe

See pics below.

Thank you, will show the guys when they can get back to me.
We all appreciate you greatly.

Hi,

You are very welcome. Let me know what is found or if I can help in any way.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe,
Appreciate all you have helped us with,
The 2 guys I had helping me are old school and done
I can't wait no more
Uggg
Been down 12 weeks,
So, I just had to have towed to mechanic shop,
I still most definetly let you know what's up when I find out!!!
Thank you thank you,
Also, if you don't mind
May I keep this link for future,?
Thanks
I'll let u know soon what prob is

Hi,

You are very welcome, and the link will always be here if you need it.

Thanks for the update. I would appreciate knowing what is found.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe,

Finally!!
This is the mechanics text to me!
I'm so grateful to all that helped with this!!


We found out the problem. There was a short in the wiring harness to the computer hence the reason why we had no power to the fuel injectors, fuel pump, fuel inertia switch or fuel relay. The opening in the wire harness was caused by corrosion. After completing everything the total came out to $313.90.

Hi,

Wow, that will do it for sure. I'm glad to know it's fixed. Actually, the cost wasn't too bad. Anytime there is an electrical issue that needs tracing, it can get really expensive with labor.

Regardless, I'm glad to know it's fixed. Take care of yourself and please feel free to come back anytime in the future. You are always welcome here.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joem

I'm back, way too soon! Now it won't stay running,
and a yellow wrench light is on left side, inside dome lights kept coming on/off by themselves last night,
Then the rest happened today,
Also, I'd like to know your opinion,
I have so many new parts put into this vehicle, can't be too many left to fix,
Is this just going to keep happening,
Should I keep,
Or trade in,
I do realize it’s hard to say,
There's no right or wrong answer cause life happens daily, right,
Lol!
Just curious.
Thank you

Are we back to the crank no-start condition? As far as replacing the vehicle, at 200K, chances are things are going to continue happening. One of the interesting things I hear from people is this. "People get 300K out of today's vehicles." And that is true. However, although the engines run and run and run, everything else wears out faster. Simple things that no one thinks about such as wheel bearings, transmission issues, wiring failure, sensor/module issues, and so on. Ultimately, it is your call, but I feel that based on the mileage, it will continue. All things get old and wears out. Actually, I think I am too. LOL

Let me know.

Joe

Hey,
U ready for hurricane season,
Ugg
No it starts, drives, all good
When I go to stop,.or start to move,slow to make turn,
It stalls out!!
,.has done enough already to scare me enough that I won't drive till that's fixed,
I don't feel anything is wrong with engine or transmission,all shifts fine,
No noises,
Now right before it stall
Do feel like loss of power in steering wheel,
So guess I'm wondering why keep stalling
New plugs new coils had tune up like,
4 months ago,
But I guess could need again cause of all it just went thru.lol

Hurricane? Heck no. LOL I'm just far enough west that at most, we get rain.

As far as the steering, it sounds like you are losing power assist when the engine RPMs drop.

If it is stalling when stopping or a light acceleration, the first thing I would be looking for is an engine vacuum leak.

Here is a link that explains how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

If you find no leaks, then suspect there is an issue with the idle air control valve. On most vehicles, the IAC can be serviced or replaced. On this vehicle, neither servicing nor replacement is possible. The throttle body will need to be replaced.

Let me know. Also, I attached diagnostics below for testing the IAC circuit. Let me know if you are comfortable performing them.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

You're awesome!!!
I will return ASAP!!

Hi,

I just noticed it has been a couple of days since I heard from you. I was wondering if you have been able to make any progress. I'm interested in knowing.

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe