Driving up a highway on ramp and truck felt like transmission slipped and lost power and then shut off and would not restart

Hi.

It's a little low, but should at least try to start. Here are the specs for you:

2002 Dodge or Ram Truck RAM 1500 Truck 4WD V8-5.9L VIN Z
Pressure
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Specifications Pressure, Vacuum and Temperature Pressure
PRESSURE

FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE 339 kPa +/- 34 kPa (49.2 psi +/- 2 psi)

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Will it start for a couple seconds using starting fluid? Also, have you checked for ignition spark to the plugs? That is where I would start at this point. Here are a few links to help guide you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

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If there is no spark, my first suspect is the crankshaft position sensor. Take a look through these links.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

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The easiest way to test the sensor is with a live data scanner. If it is bad, you first won't have spark and second, there will be no RPM signal when you are cranking the engine. If you find it is bad, here are the directions specific to your vehicle for replacement. The attached pic correlates with the directions.

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2002 Dodge or Ram Truck RAM 1500 Truck 4WD V8-5.9L VIN Z
Procedures
Vehicle Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Computers and Control Systems Crankshaft Position Sensor Service and Repair Procedures
PROCEDURES
Fig. 13 CKP Removal/Installation - 5.9L

Pic 1

REMOVAL
The sensor is bolted to the top of the cylinder block near the rear of right cylinder head.
1. Raise vehicle.
2. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor pigtail harness from main wiring harness.
3. Remove two sensor (recessed hex head) mounting bolts.
4. Remove sensor from engine.

INSTALLATION
1. Position crankshaft position sensor to engine.
2. Install mounting bolts and tighten to 8 Nm (70 in. lbs.) torque.
3. Connect main harness electrical connector to sensor.
4. Lower vehicle.

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Do these checks and let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Okay, there is no spark then. If it doesn't start with starting fluid, there isn't spark or something internal has caused low compression or timing issues.

If you are getting an RPM signal, then the crank sensor is working. So that is eliminated. Next, is the ASD, could be an issue. In addition for checking if there is spark, also check if there is an injector pulse at the injectors. If you look at the attached picture, you will see how they are tied together.

Confirm both spark and an injector pulse. If both are missing, we will try the ASD relay. If that is good, we will need to check the coil itself.

Here is a link that explains how to check for an injector pulse:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Here are a few links that you may find helpful when testing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

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Last but not least. If there is an injector pulse but no spark, here is what I need done. Unplug the connector at the coil. It is a two wire connector. One if the wires is black and gray which goes to the PCM and the other is the power supply (dark green / orange) from the ASD. I need to know if when the engine is cranking if the black/gray wire is getting an on and off ground. If it is, check the other wire for power with the key in the run position. You will need to crank the engine to check.

Here is why. The PCM opens and closes the ignition coil ground circuit for ignition coil operation. If the black / gray isn't showing continuity to ground on and off, there is either an issue with that wire, the PCM connector, or the PCM. On the other wire, battery voltage is supplied to the ignition coil positive terminal from the ASD relay. If the PCM does not see a signal from the crankshaft and camshaft sensors (indicating the ignition key is ON but the engine is not running), it will shut down the ASD circuit. We know there is a crank signal since you found an RPM signal, so then we have to go to the ASD.

I hope I'm not giving you a headache. LOL Let me know your findings. If you have any questions or need guidance, let me know.

Take care,
Joe

Hi,

Not a problem. Before testing ground, take your test light and see if there is power to the dark green/orange wire with the key in the run position. If there is, then proceed to the next step. If there is no power, stop at that point and let me know. There may be an issue with the ASD.

What you need to do is check for continuity to ground on the black / gray wire. Basically, you are checking to see if when you probe that wire if it goes to ground. You really need a multi meter to test this. You will set it to ohms to perform the test. Simply place one end of the multi meter on the wire and the other end to a known good ground, even the battery ground. Then, crank the engine to see if you get continuity on and off.

If you have power and the ground checks good, replace the coil

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Okay.

I need you to check two fuses in the under hood fuse box. See the attached picture. If the fuses are good, confirm there is power to the circuit.

Joe

Okay, that sounds like all is working. That leads me to the coil itself. To do the next test you need a scanner that can actuate the ASD. Is that something you have? If so, take a look at the attached picture and confirm there is power to the coil from the ASD. If there is, replace the coil. I know this is a pain, but to determine the actual problem, this is what is required.

Let me know.

Joe

Lance, I hate to see people waste money, but it's your call. I would try the coil first. Let me know what happens.

Joe

The scanner is used in this case to actuate different components. However, if you have power to the ASD and out, there must be a break in the wiring at some point.

Hi,

The tick sounds like a lifter. Is the oil clean and full? As far as the noise, it could be coming from the belt or one of the belt driven accessories.

If it is still turning slowly, it sounds like the battery. I would suggest having it load tested by a parts store to see if it is good. Also, try something for me (and don't laugh). The noise can be a few things, so I want to eliminate the belt. Start the engine and while you hear the noise, pour a small amount of water on the belt and see if the sound changes. Make sure you protect your eyes and wear old clothing. Water can spray at you.

Let me know what you find,

Joe

Happy to help. Let me know what you find.

Joe